Bathroom vanity finish inquiry

[Cathi Gilman]

Greetings wood pros!

I'm new to wood working and am about to embark on a big project. Here is the slab I bought:

http://www.berkshireproducts.com/inv...lg.php?id=2743

Can anyone suggest the best method to finish this piece? Since it will be a bathroom counter, I know it needs to be durable. But I prefer a more natural finish rather than high gloss/plastic looking. Also, what is the best way to handle the bumpy patches on the live edge since they can't be sanded?

Finally, what kind of attention do I need to give the underside of the slab?

Thanks!

Cathi in Tampa

[Sam Murdoch]

I finished a bar top of a 14' English Elm slab from Berkshire Products. They have great inventory - often too hard to decide.

The finish in that case and I think could be for your bath too, was Waterlox Original sealer finish. Will take 5 or 6 coats to do it properly. I brush it on liberally and allow 24 hours to dry between coats and 48 hours if I choose to lightly sand between coats. Others here on the Creek are very happy applying Waterlox as thin wipe on coats. They can tell you about that. It is an excellent finish and will easily stand up to use as a bath counter.

I assume you will be mounting a vessel sink and not trying to undermount or flush mount. Those latter options would require additional edge care when finishing.

As for the live edge - sand as you can or use 3M pads or wire brush until you get the level of smooth or rough that you like and then just finish along with the top. I typically don't try to match count of top coats with underside coats. Usually 5 or 6 (or 7) coats on top and 3 very good coats under with all the end grain being sealed with the top. I have never had any issues this way. I don't sand the undersides so I suppose they are in effect getting the same level of finish as the sanded between top coats. I know that Waterlox says no need to sand between coats but I just do. I vacuum and tack cloth and recoat each time. Each coat gets more full and smooth. The last coat I find is best applied with a wide foam brush - across grain and then feathered out with the grain in long (full length strokes if possible) with the grain. Others might dispute this technique but it works well for me.

Waterlox will take several months to really cure. It will get harder and less shiny the longer it dries. Plan on not putting the c-top into full use for at least 2 full weeks after the last coat. You can use it sooner - 4 or 5 days - but don't put heavy or scratching type objects directly on the top for as long as you can bear to wait.

OK - my 2¢ Search Waterlox for lots more opinions on how and where to use.

Welcome to the Creek. Show us before and afters or work in progress photos if you are inclined. We are a curious group . Enjoy.

[Cathi Gilman]

Thanks Sam! And yes, I'm installing a vessel sink.

[Cathi Gilman]

Attachment 281361Attachment 281362Attachment 281363

First woodworking project.....almost finished

[Sam Murdoch]

Cathi this will be one very unique vanity top. Looks pretty and pretty aggressive I'm not imagining how the vessel sink will sit on this but I am tuning in for the photos of the finished project. I hope you are happy with your progress. Nice entry to woodworking.

[Cathi Gilman]

Vessel.jpg

Thanks Sam! The Waterlox lives up to its name. The surface looks like glass. I purchased 5 maple corbels to use as mounting devices. Will post photos of finished product.

[Cathi Gilman]

Vanity/Sink installed

Vanity1.jpgVanity3.jpgVanity4.jpg

[Bill Neely]

Congratulations Cathi, beautiful.

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah,that's nice, and the way its balanced and contrasted with the stepped edge on the glass block is is artful.

[Cathi Gilman]

Thanks! This has inspired me to try other wood working projects.

[Sam Murdoch]

Really great - I love that you ran the c-top long and kept the water flow at one end. Nicely done.
Congrats!