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Thread: Framless cabinet book/method suggestions

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Northwestern Connecticut
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    7,149
    Quote Originally Posted by John A langley View Post
    Peter a sliding tablesaw would be of great help even in a Face frame shop, one thing it is easier to cut the sheet of plywood up on

    I have a 10' SCMI slider at my disposal, it squares up OK for its age, but to me breaking down sheet stock on a slider is like hunting with a club. Its better than some methods, worse than others. I think I'd still be cutting plywood for 2 weeks if it were all done on the slider. They are very versatile, surly a great asset to the custom shop, but that versatility IMO comes at the cost of being great at nothing. A sort of jack of all trades saw. You almost always have to be a specialist to be great at something. I'll probably take heat for saying this out loud, but not likely IME from somebody used to using a vertical saw. I'm talking a Streibig or Hendrick type saw with two horizontal beams and a sliding carriage. The wood enters the saw then never moves during the cut, its the dead wood theory on steroids and it removes one major obstacle to square cuts. On the sliding table saw, you just keep turning the material, and lifting, and turning, and lifting…..my back is starting to hurt just thinking about this. You get stuff square by squaring an edge, then referencing that edge and cutting all the other edges…thats a lot of edges to cut. As it turns out I did all the cross cutting on the slider using the rip fence as stop so at least the two ends should be parallel as much as possible. Easy enough. Plywood hits a cart coming through the door, goes across a TS to another cart..to the slider, to another cart. Never gets actually lifted until its small and ready to assemble. I worked PT in a shop with a big Hendricks vertical saw, it was a revelation. Quick, almost painless, dead square sheet goods without effort. It takes a lot of wall space but not so much floor space. I'm thinking that for any commercial sheet stock based cabinet shop a vertical saw and heavy duty cross cut line with a tiger stop set up for FF parts makes far more sense than a slider to me. Maybe at some volume a CNC trumps that too. I can't think of one thing a slider can do that another machine can't do better and easier, but the slider can do so many things in one package its a very compelling format economically.

    All that said, I wouldn't be opposed to doing the whole break down on the slider, but the shop I'm in isn't set up right for that, its a real bear to split length wise, never occurred to them it could do that so they backed it up to a wall and tucked it tight into a corner, made it hard to do anything but cross cut. My next challenge is how to attach several hundred LF of 1/4" thick prefinished textured edge banding to preassembled prefinished boxes. I've got pin nails, brads, glue, clamps….hope.

  2. #17
    Peter I was under the impression that you didn't have anything but a tablesaw. I won't get into the arguments about the merits of one tool over the other but I will say that tablesaw are no good for breaking down sheet goods it's hard to find any sheet goods that are true anymore, It sounds to me like you're working for somebody who is pretty set in his ways good luck with the project
    Thanks John
    Don't take life too seriously. No one gets out alive anyway!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Beantown
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    2,831
    Only thing I'll add is your shop…..or your bosses shop…..should get a Blum press. Using screw on hinges is like using a crank to start your car….nobody does it anymore Drill your doors on a Blum press and use the Inserta hinges. I promise you you'll kick yourself for not having made the switch years ago

    good luck,
    JeffD

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    I have a 10' SCMI slider at my disposal, it squares up OK for its age, but to me breaking down sheet stock on a slider is like hunting with a club. Its better than some methods, worse than others.
    What I like about the sliding saw is it's ability to make a first straight rip cut, either in plywood or lumber. Particularly in thick lumber where the power and the riving knife help the saw to keep on trucking where it seems like it would choke a unisaw.

    After the first rip, I rip against the rip fence, just like on a cabinet saw. I don't mind that the slide keeps me out from the front of the saw, because I don't want to be there anyway.

    What I don't have figured out is the crosscut. You start with a long piece, slide the rip fence forward to be in front of the blade, and measure with the rip fence while pushing against the slides crosscut fence. BUT, what happens with the last peice- it can be too short for support by the crosscut fence when measuring with the rip fence. The solution seems to me to be to use the flip stop, which is set up fine, but will the flip stop be exactly the same as the rip fence? There is no reason to assume that it would be.

    So if I want some parts to be the same (nothing is perfect so the same is the next best objective), it's rip the normal way, crosscut a little long, then mark a front edge. Then it's to the slide for crosscut- flip stop up, front against the fence and make a small crosscut- then flip it end for end with the front still against the fence with the flip stop down make the other crosscut. I would rather not have to make a crosscut then have to do it again, but I don't know any better way to do it on the sliding saw.

    What I am thinking about doing is setting up my 24" crosscut radial arm saw as a crosscutter using a digital fence. That way there is crosscut fence on either side of the blade. I don't have any plans to build euroboxes, but it seems to me that if you mark the fronts of the panels as the side against the radial arm saw fence, and the top of the panel as either consistently the left or right of the board as it goes through the radial arm saw- then differences in the sides would stack together- any error in a top box would compliment the error in the box under it. (of course, the saw would be aligned for 90 degrees as well as I can make it)

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Little Hocking, OH
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    676
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post

    While checking one of the links above, and honestly I don't remember which, google confuses me that way, I found a 10 part video series from the Portland Community College on making frameless cabs! Some parts were a bit intro for my needs, but the series is well done, and the teacher uses mostly basic shop equipment with the exception of a Blum mini press because he is teaching the 32MM system. He had an interesting and very simple method for notching the front edge of horizontal partitions to fit into a stopped dado in the sides, that was one area I was struggling for a solution, and his is quite simple and more importantly quick! I'd love to have one of those blum mini presses…..not sure i'd ever even use it, but it just looked like a cool gadget, and I love cool gadgets! I developed a good method for drilling the screw holes for the cup hinge plates in the case sides, its oddly based on a hinge template for traditional butt hinges in FF cabinets, why not take the old dogs best trick and apply it to a new dog? There are no drawers…..in almost 30 LF of lower and uppers…floor to ceiling…no drawers. Designers….? So that parts easy.

    Thanks again for all the responses. I'm thinking I have a few books to add to the christmass list too. In the words of Edna Mode, Success favors the prepared!
    Do you remember the link for the Portland Community College video series? I go t their web site, but can't figure out where the video would be.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
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    7,149
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    Do you remember the link for the Portland Community College video series? I go t their web site, but can't figure out where the video would be.
    Mark, Its on YouTube, here's a link to the first chapter: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mBh7JMv...%3DmBh7JMv_8DE

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