Gouge Grinding Question

[Robert Edington]

I have a question about grinding my Glaser. Today is the first time I've ever visited Doug Thompson's web site. He has a sharpening guide for use with the OneWay system, which I have. It is very informative. Over the years of grinding my Glaser it has morphed into something that works for me, but I'd rather have something closer to the original grind.
Doug shows how to set the jig, and then says to extend the tool 1.75" past the end of the Vari-Grind. Then set the nose angle. How do you set the nose angle before hand?
I know how to check the angle afterwards, but not before hand. Any thoughts?
Thanks

RP
Brenham, Texas

[Bill Hensley]

RP you'll probably have to experiment with how far you slide the bar out to get the nose angle. Once you find the angle you like cut a piece of dowel rod or something so you can always reset the distance of the bar pocket to the wheel to replicate that grind. Make sense?

[Dale Miner]

I just played with it 'till the angle looked right.

Here is a thought; cut a dowell to the angle that you want, put it in the varigrind with the 1.75" stickout and the miter oriented as the bevel of the gouge will be. With grinder off, move the arm in or out until the miter makes contact with the wheel with as much of a full contact as possible. This should give a reasonable starting point.

Might be less trouble to just play with it though.

[Darryl Hansen]

If the nose angle you want is what you have ( probably not) just put magic marker on it and put it in the V
Grove. Turn the wheel and adjust the arm until you scrape off the marker. If you want to change the angle the same process will give you a starting point to adjust to arm. the original glaser grind on my tool was somewhere around 65 degrees. It will be a matter of trial and movement 'till it is what you want. Then as said above use a cowell or scribe the arm for that nose angle.

[charlie knighton]

Robert, sharpening is a major step in learning to turn. i would suggest buying cd Sharpening Demystified with Kirk DeHeer as money well spent. covers basic turning tools, grinders and wheels, sharpening with jigs (this really helps), sharpening freehand, chainsaw sharpening among other things. its well done and considering the amount we spend on looking for that next best tool, knowledge that you will use the rest of your turning life. i believe craft supply carries it.

[Thom Sturgill]

If the nose angle you want is what you have ( probably not) just put magic marker on it and put it in the V
Grove. Turn the wheel and adjust the arm until you scrape off the marker. If you want to change the angle the same process will give you a starting point to adjust to arm. the original glaser grind on my tool was somewhere around 65 degrees. It will be a matter of trial and movement 'till it is what you want. Then as said above use a cowell or scribe the arm for that nose angle.

Scribing the arm works with CBN wheels, but not with AO which change radius. Over time this will put him right back where he is. The Raptor tool compensates for the radius change as it measures from a tangent with two points of contact. The dowel cut to the proper angle, mounted in the vari-grind with the proper extension, will also work well regardless of wheel diameter, especially if you hollow grind it. They make setup tools with different grinds that you put in the varigrind to make sure that your setup will duplicate the grind both at the nose and wings. CSUSA sells a set by Henry Taylor

I bought a set when I was first starting, they are a good learning tool, but after a while they just sit in the drawer.

[Robert Edington]

Yes, this is what I did to set up my Jig. I did it like the instructions say using the magic marker and hand turning the wheels until it scratches it all off evenly. I don't do a lot of turning (too much grass to cut and too many grand children!) but over the few years I've had the jig and gouge, the "wings" have gotten very long and the nose has developed shoulders which the wings taper back from. So I'd like to regrind it and start over. That is why Doug Thompson's print out seemed very helpful.
I drilled a hole in the edge my work bench the depth OneWay said in the instructions (added additional depth for the nickle) and epoxied a nickle in the bottom of it to use to set the depth of my gouge in the vari-grind. I never have changed the angle of the leg either. So I have kept "things" constant as possible. Only problem is, I guess I need to change "things!"
I'm just trying to refine what I'm doing to try to restore my Glaser to its original shape.

RP
Brenham, Texas

[Robert Edington]

I like this idea. Cutting a dowel to 60 degrees and putting it in the Vari-Grind as a set up jig. I think I'll try it.

RP
Brenham, Texas

[Peter Blair]

I used to use the 'scribe' method but I wanted something easier. So once I set my jig I drilled a 1/8" hole through the jig to index it for my bowl, spindle and detail gouges. Now all I do is set the distance front the front of the jig with a piece of hard material screwed to my the top of my sharpening table and move the 1/8 in pin to the correct hole and no more guessing.