Working with thin stock

[Daniel Rode]

I've been working on jewelry boxes over the last couple of months. One of the areas I've struggled with is how to plane thin stock, especially 1/4" and less. I have a Sjoberg workbench with a side and end vice. Using the end vice and 1 set of dog holes typically racks the vice, so I made some stops that span both sets of holes. Mine are very similar to the Veritas metal planing stops.

This works OK for some stuff. Often, I just rest the workpiece against the planing stop and ignore the end vice. However, It's about 3/8" and I can't really get it much thinner or it won't hold a 3/4" dowels. Moreover, even 1/4" pieces deflect easily over the dog holes, so I need to keep clear of them.

For the most recent box, I wanted to make a drawer with a 1/8" thick bottom and 3/16" sides. I eventually settled on 1/4" for everything because I wasn't sure how to plane the pieces. In another instance I wanted to make a small 1/2 ellipse part to give a thumb catch to a flush top. What I wanted was about 1" long x 1/4" x 1/4". I ended up with something twice that size because I couldn't find a way to hold anything smaller to shape it.

I'd be interested in what others do to work thin and small stuff?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Are you able to resaw to this thickness? I assume it would not be sufficiently flat, but maybe...

If I wanted to run it through a planer, I would attach the board to a thick board and run it through that way. If needed, you could use elmers school glue to tack around the edge (perimeter) and then just cut out that where you glued.

[Chris Griggs]

Planing thin stock is a pain. If I get one side good an flat first I can typically plane down to about 1/8" thick by setting a dog or two really low in a hole and just planing into them. The other option for really really thin stock is to clamp one end down and plane away from the clamp toward the unclamped end and then turn the piece around and plane the end that you couldn't get to because of the clamp. You, of course need to be careful here to make sure you plane both ends evenly, and you also need to be able to plane against the grain, but you can plane very very thin this way, since the force in pulling the piece taught when you take a stroke.

Some folks also make special purpose planing boards, which are basically a piece of MDF or something with a stop set in so that it extend only like 1/8 or less above the surface.

[David Weaver]

Make a board with a border glued on on the front and the far side - and try to be accurate with your planing strokes so that you don't just push whatever you're planing right up over the border.

Just make sure that the board you're using is big enough so that you have some wiggle room on the end and sides, it'll be easier to use. If something overlaps the ends or sides, it'll be a pain to use.

[David Weaver]

Some folks also make special purpose planing boards, which are basically a piece of MDF or something with a stop set in so that it extend only like 1/8 or less above the surface.

I should've actually read that far to see that Chris already said what I said.

[Simon MacGowen]

Did you try mounting the plane (e.g. a LAJ) upside down and push the thin stock with a push block? It works well if the stock is 2" or so wide and under. Alternatively, attach the stock (oversized a bit) to a flat scrap with double-faced tape and plane the piece with a very sharp blade set for thin cuts.

Simon

[Daniel Rode]

Thanks Chris and David! A board with a edge stop sounds perfect. It seems so obvious now. While I was standing at my bench staring at a shooting board and a bench hook, the idea never crossed my mind.

[Zach Dillinger]

Planing thin stock is a pain. If I get one side good an flat first I can typically plane down to about 1/8" thick by setting a dog or two really low in a hole and just planing into them. The other option for really really thin stock is to clamp one end down and plane away from the clamp toward the unclamped end and then turn the piece around and plane the end that you couldn't get to because of the clamp. You, of course need to be careful here to make sure you plane both ends evenly, and you also need to be able to plane against the grain, but you can plane very very thin this way, since the force in pulling the piece taught when you take a stroke.

Some folks also make special purpose planing boards, which are basically a piece of MDF or something with a stop set in so that it extend only like 1/8 or less above the surface.

When I plane really thin stock (which is not terribly often), I usually just clamp the piece as Chris describes. Usually stock this thin is going to end up as veneer, so flattening it with a toothing plane isn't the worst thing in the world and this will help with the grain issues.

[Daniel Rode]

Thanks Simon. The bottom was too wide for this, but I've done similar with some things. My vices aren't deep enough to hold the plane properly, so I end up having to hold it which limits what I can do.

Did you try mounting the plane (e.g. a LAJ) upside down and push the thin stock with a push block? It works well if the stock is 2" or so wide and under. Alternatively, attach the stock (oversized a bit) to a flat scrap with double-faced tape and plane the piece with a very sharp blade set for thin cuts.

Simon

[Jim Leslie]

Usually stock this thin is going to end up as veneer, so flattening it with a toothing plane isn't the worst thing in the world and this will help with the grain issues.

This was one of those "so obvious why didn't I think of that" moments! Why oh why have I been trying to plane *both* sides so well when I end up (usually) glueing it to a panel. [I like making my own real veneer]. A forehead slapping moment..

[Jim Koepke]

Daniel,

My bench is also made by Sjoberg.

A few of my tricks might help you.

For the racking problem:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...k-Spacer-Stack

Otherwise having different size pieces to set in the vise also works. The trick is to get the shim in the vise sized so the piece being worked is held but not bowed. Making a separate 1/16" shim is helpful for this.

I have been using these dogs for planing thin stock:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-Up-Round-Dogs

I make mine on a lathe, but it is possible to make them without a lathe. It is just a little more work. Others have added their work on making these. Mine have an angle to the cutout so the top tends to hold the piece being worked. I try to avoid hitting them with tools, but also consider them to be sacrificial items if need be.

Hopefully Sjoberg didn't change the set up so much to make the vise opening too small to hold a plane.

Taking the movable jaw completely out. Place the threaded rod through the space between the handle and the frog of a plane and then reinstall the vise jaw. Care must be taken while doing this to not drop anything or to cut yourself on the blade. This works great for edge planing, but is a bit much to do face work.

I will try to take some pictures of these methods and post them later.

jtk

[Brian Thornock]

If you want to get really fancy, you could make a small vacuum hold down table, so you never have to worry about hitting stops. Of course, the vacuum pump or compressor kind of ruins the whole hand tool zen mojo.

[Daniel Rode]

Thanks Jim. Your bench and vices look just like mine. I made a few spacers but your idea is much more flexible. I think I'll try to make a set. Any tips you have are greatly appreciated!

I have some similar dogs that came with the bench. I think they are made by Sjoberg as well. They are plastic coated steel with built in bullet catches and so far indestructible.

I have not tried to mount my (#4) plane in the vice, but I'm pretty sure it's not deep enough. It's wide enough, but the threaded rod and guides are only a couple inches below the surface. My block plane might fit.

Daniel,

My bench is also made by Sjoberg.

A few of my tricks might help you.

For the racking problem:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...k-Spacer-Stack

Otherwise having different size pieces to set in the vise also works. The trick is to get the shim in the vise sized so the piece being worked is held but not bowed. Making a separate 1/16" shim is helpful for this.

I have been using these dogs for planing thin stock:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-Up-Round-Dogs

I make mine on a lathe, but it is possible to make them without a lathe. It is just a little more work. Others have added their work on making these. Mine have an angle to the cutout so the top tends to hold the piece being worked. I try to avoid hitting them with tools, but also consider them to be sacrificial items if need be.

Hopefully Sjoberg didn't change the set up so much to make the vise opening too small to hold a plane.

Taking the movable jaw completely out. Place the threaded rod through the space between the handle and the frog of a plane and then reinstall the vise jaw. Care must be taken while doing this to not drop anything or to cut yourself on the blade. This works great for edge planing, but is a bit much to do face work.

I will try to take some pictures of these methods and post them later.

jtk

[Daniel Rode]

Thanks Brian. I'm running a power / hand tool hybrid shop but I really enjoy quietness of planning, sawing, etc with no power tools running.

I did give some thought to using drawer liner. I've used this in the past for routing tough to clamp pieces. I don't think it has the hold I need to plane a board, tho.

If you want to get really fancy, you could make a small vacuum hold down table, so you never have to worry about hitting stops. Of course, the vacuum pump or compressor kind of ruins the whole hand tool zen mojo.

[Rob Lee]

Thanks Chris and David! A board with a edge stop sounds perfect. It seems so obvious now. While I was standing at my bench staring at a shooting board and a bench hook, the idea never crossed my mind.

You can also use FH brass screws to make "mini" planing stops. If you're careful - you could even trap all sides....

Cheers -

Rob