Don't do this if you don't need to run a moulder head on your SawStop

[J.R. Rutter]

But if you do, here's one way to make it work. Otherwise, the saw won't even power on. Be sure to turn off the sensor with the key to prevent any accidental firing. Basically, you can fool the sensor into thinking that the brake is next to a blade by screwing a piece of heavy gauge wire (heavy so that it doesn't flop into the cutter) to the aluminum brake. Then loop the wire up next to the arbor nut, making sure to keep it away from the cutterhead.



Mission accomplished.

[Rod Sheridan]

Very creative.....................Rod.

[Matt Meiser]

Or run a v-groove bit in a router table.

[johnny means]

I think you just solved the specialty blade problem all the nay sayers bring up. Now we can all cut our fret slots with our little teeny tiny blades on our Sawstops.

BTW, what do you think of the Magic Moulder?

[J.R. Rutter]

I've also done it that way, Matt, but router bits don't do well with VG fir and hemlock, IME. Too much fuzzy grain. Plus, registering the spacing is so much easier on the table saw, especially with a TigerStop on the SawStop ;-)

The Magic Moulder is great for doing beaded and v-groove panels. Very smooth and dead easy to change plugs. I have not used it for anything else since I have good shapers.

[johnny means]

+1 on the router bit issues. I do a lot of v- folding using a router bit to make the cut. The problem with that is that there is no cutting action going on at the tip of the cutter. I would compare it to a spinning nail at the tip. It also, in my situation, calls for a lot of measuring, jigging and clamping. The MM along with a feeder would remedy a lot of my problems.

[Aaron Berk]

Educate me here.

What would be the outcome if the wire tangled in the blade for some freak reason?

Looks a little risky, but I also raise panels on a RAS with no blade guard, so I'm not saying I would attempt what you posted., or thats it's stupid

Just that a dangling wire that close to the blade sounds suspect to damage.

[Bob Falk]

JR,
Having a shaper, I have always wondered about the usefulness of these TS molding cutters, but you have certainly pointed out a very useful application, especially with DF. Thanks, bob

[J.R. Rutter]

Educate me here.

What would be the outcome if the wire tangled in the blade for some freak reason?

Looks a little risky, but I also raise panels on a RAS with no blade guard, so I'm not saying I would attempt what you posted., or thats it's stupid

Just that a dangling wire that close to the blade sounds suspect to damage.

It would rip the wire out and wrap it around the cutterhead. If the saw isn't set to bypass mode, it would ruin the brake cartridge and possibly the cutterhead. That is a 12 or 10 ga wire, so it is pretty stiff. You could also bend a strip of aluminum to do the same thing, which may be better long term. Thanks for the idea.

[Mike Heidrick]

I read about that awhile back. Creative idea.

I thought of machining a sleeve for the brake.

Best to just run the parts through a moulder or shaper and feeder.

Dont you have some crazy 5axis moulder JR?

[mreza Salav]

Thanks for sharing the trick. I don't have any of those heads but it is certainly useful to know how to bypass the system for that one odd cut.

[Bernie May]

I don't understand the need for this. I thought you could just turn off the brake system.

[Matt Meiser]

You can turn off the brake, but the saw still won't start without a brake cartridge properly adjusted to the blade.

[Mark Bolton]

I read about that awhile back. Creative idea.

I thought of machining a sleeve for the brake.

Best to just run the parts through a moulder or shaper and feeder.

Dont you have some crazy 5axis moulder JR?

That panel would be tough to run on a shaper barring running it like a router table (already covered)

[joe milana]

Interesting. Does the wire actually have to go up to the arbor, or could it simply come in close proximity to any part if the saw chassis?