Jet 1642EVS Tool Rest Height with Monster Hollower

[Jon Finch]

<--- new to the Monster tools hollowing system. I was hollowing last night and noticed that I could not get the tool rest low enough on my Jet 1648EVS to get the cutting edge of the hollower at the centerline of the piece. It meant I had to make the hole in the end larger to allow the tools to enter and hollow (not that big of a deal), but I also realized as I got to the bottom of the piece that I could not flatten out bottom. There was a rise at the center because I couldn't get the tool lower. Is this normal with the tool rest of this lathe (it's the stock rest). Do I need to buy a shorter tool rest for the monster? Or is there a different solution? Thanks.

Jon

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I noticed that also. I have a Robust rest, so that is what I use. If you have not considered an aftermarket tool rest, I highly reccommend getting any of the hardened drill rod rests. BIG improvement over the stock rest in all of your turnings...... You could also get a cheaper round bar rest. Those are okay to use but hard to get close to your turnings. Even the round bar rest is a big improvement from the stock rest. I think.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Have you tried raising the hollowing system? You didn't mention if you are using the captured or articulated system but I have mine adjusted so that the cutting tip is lower than the support end of the system. If you adjust the system to an angle like that, then your tool rest will work just fine.

I have both the Jet 1642 and a Robust... the Monster system works great on either lathe. If you have any specific questions on setup, send me a PM.

[Jon Finch]

I hadn't thought of raising the back end of the articulating arm to angle the cutting tip down (I have articulated arm system and not the captured bar). I'll try that on the next project. I think I'll buy another rest too, but I wonder if it'll end up being the same height as the stock one???

[Ryan Baker]

Every aftermarket rest I have tried will go lower than the stock one on the Jet 1642. As long as there isn't some part of a casting, etc. in the way, you can also trim down the height of the riser piece to make it go lower too (obviously not the case for the stock rest).

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Raising the back of the Monster will allow the cutter to go lower, however, you really want the rig to be level, so the cutter will be at center from the front of the Hollow Form to the back of the HF. Getting a new tool rest is the answer.

You can also get a 1" locking collar, and once you get the rest at the right height and the rig level, lock the tool rest with the collar (hose clamp works also, but the collar looks way cooler) and mark where the back height is with a sharpie. Next set-up will be MUCH easier. BUT, youir tool rest will be delegated to use with the Monster, so that will require the purchase of another tool rest......

[Steve Schlumpf]

Kyle, we all have our own styles of hollowing but I prefer to have my cutter working at slightly above the center-line and have no problems readjusting my tool rest closer or further from the form to maintain that height. The only time I am concerned about cutting on the center-line is for a finishing cut at the very bottom of the form.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Cut above center? Interesting. Does it work better, or is it so the cutting forces drop it to center? I cut slightly above when coring, but that's because the forces bring the cutter below center, if aimed at center. I will have to try that. Thanks! Learn something new every day.

[Chip Sutherland]

My 2 cents.....I had the same issue with my captured Monster setup but it wasn't a problem with Monster nor the tool rest. It was more design perspective. I didn't want a larger hole; I wanted a small hole. Small HFs (>8") need a smaller opening to look proportional. But the 3/4" hollowing tool bar forced me to make 7/8" or larger holes so I could keep the cutting edge at centerline; otherwise, the bottom of the bar would hit the opening. Inverting the cutting tips worked reasonably well with the cutting and scraping tips. Instead of mounting the cutting tip on top of the post that is inserted into the hollowing bar, I would mount the cutting tip underneath the post so the cutting edge was closer to centerline. I am not an aggressive hollower so I didn't worry about bending the post. But this still didn't really give me what I wanted as the 3/4" bar wasn't going to fit in anything less than a 3/4" opening.

I only solved it by buying the 1/2" Kelton hollowing bars which fit the Monster system perfectly. Now I can make smaller HF's with a hole just big enough to accommodate the Kelton's. A smaller opening keeps the right perspective in the piece. There were other solutions available....but needed an excuse to get the Kelton's. Now it doesn't matter if I use my stock tool rest or one of my Robost tool rests when hollowing.

If I need something smaller than 1/2...then I hollow from the bottom and plug it...then create an tiny opening to fool everyone.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Kyle, I cut above the center-line for a couple of reasons. First, the cutter we use for hollowing is actually being used as a scraper, meaning the small burr does all the work. When using a scraper, usually you have the tip angled down (handle held above center) such that the burr engages the wood. That same idea holds true when hollowing but also works even better when you have the bit engage the wood slightly above the center-line. That small addition to height allows the burr on the cutting tool tip to work well and also has the additional advantage that should you get a catch, the cutting tip will be forced down - and away from the form. If you were to cut right on the center-line and experienced a catch, then the cutting tip would be forced into thicker wood and result in some extremely bad words and possible damage to the form.

Like I mentioned, we all have our own way of hollowing. What I explained just happens to be what works for me.

[Art German]

I think Steve has covered it well. I had an 1642 ad now have a Robust and I find his replies right on the money

Art