wiring ac gearmotor

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi all,

I have a Dayton parallel shaft AC gearmotor that I'd like to wire up and use. The wiring diagram on the motor is a bit scratched up, and I'm having a hard time figuring out what goes where. I've asked grainger for a copy of the diagram, but who knows how long that'll take. Hoping one of the gurus here can help in the meantime.

Here's what I have. 5 wires coming out of the motor: black (c1), Blue (c2), red (c7), yellow (c9) and white (c8). Pigtailed to the Red is a Brown wire, but it's not attached to anything.

I've attached pictures of the wiring box, the nameplate and the remnant of the diagram. Can anyone piece this together for me?

Thanks in advance,

Lee

[Ole Anderson]

Try Googling the model number and the words instruction manual. I used to have one connected to a drum switch so it was reversible, worked great for a makeshift lathe like tool. Sold it years ago.

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi,
Thank you for the suggestion. I had previously Googled, but didn't find much. I tried the model number with"leeson", and found the following page:

http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/LEESON-M1145034/#

I believe this is the same model as mine, but is a 115/230v version (mine is 115v only). The wiring diagram shows 6 leads, the additional wire being orange.

I believe the extra wire is necessary for 230v operation, which explains why it's not present on mine. Can I ignore it on the wiring diagram, and otherwise hook it up as the diagram shows? Or have I got this all wrong?

Also, the diagram shows a capacitor, but I'm not sure where to find the necessary rating. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Lee

[Jeff Erbele]

Hi all,

I have a Dayton parallel shaft AC gearmotor that I'd like to wire up and use. The wiring diagram on the motor is a bit scratched up, and I'm having a hard time figuring out what goes where. I've asked grainger for a copy of the diagram, but who knows how long that'll take. Hoping one of the gurus here can help in the meantime.

Here's what I have. 5 wires coming out of the motor: black (c1), Blue (c2), red (c7), yellow (c9) and white (c8). Pigtailed to the Red is a Brown wire, but it's not attached to anything.

I've attached pictures of the wiring box, the nameplate and the remnant of the diagram. Can anyone piece this together for me?

Thanks in advance,

Lee

Hi Lee,
I worked a career in motor rewind shops as a machinist-welder, motor mechanic, second shift lead man and finally route sales. My background is mechanical, not electrical but in a motor shop had to be able to do virtually everything with a motor, test, diagnosis, tear down, clean, assemble, scrape and seat the babbit bearings, balance, align, connect and test run, but not rewind them. The "winders" (motor rewinder's) did that. The machinist-welders rebuilt, reconditioned, or fabricated everything mechanical back to OEM specs.

In order to test or test run a motor we had to connect it. The nameplate or connection data plate provided that information, In your case the umber-important is damaged. Alternatively we would look up the connections in a book or ask a winder for verification or assistance. One can destroy a motor if not connected properly.

I only see 4 wires in the connection box, not counting the pig-tail beyond the wire nut. Where is the other wire you listed?
For just a minute, skipping everything written and focused on what I see, (and this is a guess at this point):
* Your motor is 115 VAC.
* 2 of the wires end with female spade terminals - my guess is those may go to a capacitor, spec's unknown. That is for the start-winding. You also have a run-winding.
if that is true, you only have 2 wires left (as best as i can see). 115 Volt only has 2 wires, your hot and neutral.
But that's too simple, as I think your motor is capable of reverse rotation.
Where is the other wire, or wires?

[Jeff Erbele]

Hi,
Thank you for the suggestion. I had previously Googled, but didn't find much. I tried the model number with"leeson", and found the following page:

http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/LEESON-M1145034/#

I believe this is the same model as mine, but is a 115/230v version (mine is 115v only). The wiring diagram shows 6 leads, the additional wire being orange.

I believe the extra wire is necessary for 230v operation, which explains why it's not present on mine. Can I ignore it on the wiring diagram, and otherwise hook it up as the diagram shows? Or have I got this all wrong?

Also, the diagram shows a capacitor, but I'm not sure where to find the necessary rating. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Lee

I think this is your motor: http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Gearmotor-6K332
The windings are different between the two motors, the Lesson 115/230v and the Grainger/Dayton 115v.
No you can't ignore leads coming out of a motor as there is something on the other end; in this case not thermal protection (yours does not have that), but the motor windings, the part that makes them work / spin.

Where are you going to find the capacitor specs?:
* Where did this motor come from? Apparently it was used. Can you trace it back to its source, who owned it previoulsy or where it was used. They may know if it had a capacitor and it could be in another box on its previous application.
* Grainger help line.
* Motor rewind shop, a full-service, multi-talented one.

I am pretty sure your motor had not been rewound / rebuilt yet, as it still has the factory color-coded leads. We had tons of copper wire and motor lead cable but having every gauge in every color would have required tons more. So all rewinds had all black leads which were ID'd with wire label tape.

If your motor is supposed to have a capacitor and I think it is supposed to have one, without it and the run circuit, you would have to hand start the motor every time. That could be dangerous and is impractical. Without it your motor will sit there and hum, not rotate as the fields are 180 degrees apart, diametrically opposite, with noting to get the rotor rotating.

I should also add that in the shops I worked in, General Electric, Westinghouse and Eastern Electric, did not repair single phase and small motors, unless it was something special, as it was not economical. We worked on 3 phase and D.C. motors, generators, and transformers, usually big junk, mining equipment, power plants, railroad, other plants and mills, etc. 5 hp - 10,000 hp sometimes larger and turbine generators, steam and hydro.

I am not going to answer your questions, (connections and capacitor) unless I know for sure it is the right one.

[David L Morse]

According to your link

I think this is your motor: http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Gearmotor-6K332

this is a split phase motor and so it requires no capacitor.

[Jeff Erbele]

According to your link

this is a split phase motor and so it requires no capacitor.

A capacitor start motor is a split-phase induction motor http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_moto...or_start_motor
but not all split phase motors are capacitor start, which I think is what the OP has.

Capacitor start motors usually have a can mounted on the motor frame exterior. The OP’s Dayton motor and the Grainger photo don’t show that.

The OP introduced the topic of a capacitor with the Lesson 115/230v schematic. I can see where he is going with this, the Lesson is a compatible interchange e.g. same frame, RPM, gear box, ratio, torque, same, same, etc. etc. bolt it in place and it fits, wire it, turn it on and it works; But it is a dual voltage moor so the schematic is not applicable to or interchangeable with the Dayton. Mis-rationalizing a solution is not one.

Grainger has the solution. Not sure why they didn’t tell him on the phone, or send a fax or email, or post it to a photo share site for him; facebook.com/grainger, etc.

[John Lifer]

If you don't see holes and see scratches where a Capacitor would have been, and I don't think you will find then, it is not a Capacitor missing. Black is 99 o/o line and white is neutral. The remaining wires are for directions connect two and it will go cw, and two others ccw. Would be wired to switch to accomplish. Now which is the problem. You most likely will not hurt motor checking, but I can't guarantee that, really need diagram. I had similar and guessed but I might have been lucky.

[Charles Lent]

That gearmotor has an internal electrically operated brake (according to the spec sheet) so this would account for 2 of the wires. It didn't say whether the brake needed power to release it or power to apply it, but most of these brakes that I've encountered need power to release the brake since the brake prevents coasting of the load when the motor is off. Probably the best and safest way to be certain that you are connecting it correctly is to get the information from Grainger.

Charley

[Jeff Erbele]

If you don't see holes and see scratches where a Capacitor would have been, and I don't think you will find then, it is not a Capacitor missing. Black is 99 o/o line and white is neutral. The remaining wires are for directions connect two and it will go cw, and two others ccw. Would be wired to switch to accomplish. Now which is the problem. You most likely will not hurt motor checking, but I can't guarantee that, really need diagram. I had similar and guessed but I might have been lucky.

I agree; from the facts we have so far I don't think this motor has a capacitor. It was the Lesson connection diagram that lead us down that line of thinking.

Direction reversing could be accomplished by a switch if the application required running the motor in either direction on occasion, or it the application was always one direction a basic on/off switch would suffice with the internal connections wired for the appropriate direction. A switch would be another likely candidate for the female spade terminals pictured.

There is the potential for damaging / destroying the motor by mis-connecting it, especially when we don't know all the facts. That is why I was reluctant to provide connection advice. Guesses could work but with a risk. There is no point in taking that risk when it is apparent Grainger has the 100% solution with no risk.

That gearmotor has an internal electrically operated brake (according to the spec sheet) so this would account for 2 of the wires. It didn't say whether the brake needed power to release it or power to apply it, but most of these brakes that I've encountered need power to release the brake since the brake prevents coasting of the load when the motor is off. Probably the best and safest way to be certain that you are connecting it correctly is to get the information from Grainger.
Charley

I noticed the brake on the spec sheet too. If Lee's motor is equiped with a brake, it doesn't appear like we have enough leads coming out. Well maybe, unless that is already internally wired, but that is abnormal in my experience with perhaps 10's of thousands of motors; brake motors less common, but still a lot of them. Or the brake (if so equiped) has no leads coming out, instead has terminals for leads coming in.

Here's the same size brake as a replacement or add-on, which has terminals: http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Brake-5X400
The thing is, I don't see a place to mount it on the gear motor in Lee's photos, as the DE-drive end of the motor has a C or J-Flange mount with the gear box mounted on it and the ODE-opposite drive end has a cooling fan. Per the name plate TEFC - Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled; per the photo Fan Shroud pictured.

I agree with usually the brake (often an electromagnet) must be energized in order to release the brake. It's a power-off brake, also known as a "dead-man" brake, after the train locomotive system where the engineer must have a foot on a peddle in order to release the brakes and keep them in the released mode. It is the fail-safe method; if anything fails everything stops.

If I had the motor on my bench, I'd pop it open, eliminate the questions and have it back together in a few minutes.