8-1/4 Circular Saws / 8-1/4" CircularSaw Blades / 8-1/2" Circular Saw Blades

[George Bokros]

I am thinking about getting an 8-1/4" circular saw. I had been considering a new 7-1/4" circular saw (DWE575SB) but think I will be better served for what I want it for to go to the 8-1/4" Dewalt.

My dilemma is that I really like the cut I have been getting with my Diablo 7-1/4" 60 tooth blade in plywood. In the 8-1/4" size the best I can find is a 40 tooth blade. I see Diablo has an 8-1/2" 60 tooth blade, will that fit into a saw designed for 8-1/4" blade? I would think the clearance would be there since it is only 1/8" in all directions larger.

What do you guys think would there be clearance for the 8-1/2" blade and would it be safe to use it?

Thanks

George

[Matt Day]

I'm not sure I understand the question. What do you plan to use an 8 1/2" saw for that 7 1/4" couldn't do? If you like the 60t blade it sounds like you're cutting plywood and would t need the bigger saw.

[George Bokros]

I want to cut through two thickness of ply using my EZ tracksaw. The track looses me 15/16" of depth.

George

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Depends on the saw. A lot of nice 8 1/4 blades. Maybe a good 40 tooth would meet your needs. I suspect the extra 1/8 inch clearance wouldn't be a problem. But I'd buy the saw first and them decide if it would velar the safety guard etc

[Mike Cutler]

George

Sounds like you're in the same boat I was in a year or so back.
You are correct that the EZ rail guides and base take up enough of a 7 1/4" blades capacity to limit the cut to just under 1 1/2". I used my Milwuakee worm drive with an 8-1/4" blade, mounted to a base plate on the EZ rails, to do the rips I needed to do.
To be brutally honest though, the 8 1/4" may not do it either for you. You really want the full depth of the gullet to exit the material on the bottom. Each saw will be a little different in this aspect though, so look at total depth of cut, minus gullet depth.
I then started looking at 10 1/4" circular saws, and learned quickly that the jump in price is pretty steep, about double. The depth of cut was approximately 3 3/4" across the board and losing that 15/16ths to the EZ rail brought it down to a nominal 2 3/4".
I ended up getting Festool TS 75, but could have just as easily got a Makita 10-1/4". It was kind of a flip of the coin price wise for me, when the Festool rails were factored in. Depth of cut was the same, comparison wise, when mounted on a rail system.
Point is, I guess, to advise you to look at bigger saws, with deeper depths of cuts than an 8 1/4" or 8 1/2" will offer when used on a track system. If you change track systems, so be it, but you don't have too. I still have my EZ rails,and have no intention of getting rid of them. I like them every bit as much as the Festool guides.

[George Bokros]

Mike I am exactly at the place you were a year ago. Unfortunately I am just a hobbyist and cannot justify a second track saw system. Currently EZ does not have a saw base that a 10 1/4" circular saw will work on and besides like you said the price of admission for a 10 1/4" is also to steep for me.

I had the Dewalt DWE575 at home (bought it at Lowes and took it back) with a blade mounted in it and setting on the EZ saw base on the track and the blade gullet is within 3/32" of completely exiting two thickness of 3/4" ply. I think I am going to go with the DWE575SB (the one with the electric brake) for my track saw upgrade. This will permit me to use the Diablo 7 1/4" 60 blade I have been using.

Just a follow up question Mike, did you buy the squaring attachment for the EZ system and if so do you think it was worth the $80 price? Also if you did buy the squaring attachment did you buy it with the handle? The squaring attachment seem like it would be a good addition but you cannot use the clamps with it as far as I can tell.

Thanks for all your input.

George

[Mike Cutler]

George

I only have the basic EZ rail set. Two rails, connectors and ZCI's.
I did not buy the squaring attachment. Primarily because once I get the material small enough, it goes through the table saw. Also, by shear luck, I bought a 4' Drywall Tee many years ago that is so close to square it's unbelievable, so I can square the EZ rails with the drywall Tee. Most of the "systems" I've seen for processing sheet goods with the EZ rails incorporates some type of a cutting bench. The rails is set 90 degrees to a back fence and the materials slides underneath. Some are pretty elaborate and I wonder just how far away in cost they were from a used panel saw. It's not just a question of achieving a four square panel, but doing it multiple times with repeatable results in dimension. If you can't use the clamps, I'd be interested to see how it works. Unlike the Festool rails, my EZ rails need the clamps to stay in place.
When I got my EZ rails they still had not, as of then, sold a base plate to mount my Milwaukee worm drive too, so I just made my own,and that was what I was going to do with a 10 1/4" saw if they didn't make one, which by the way surprises me that they don't. It could be that it's a special order item and not shown on their website. I've seen videos of Dino using a 14" Makita mounted to a baseplate so they must have bigger ones.

Like you, I also am just a garage hobbyist, and really didn't want a second track saw. My needs though are to be able to make long initial rips in 2" thick hardwoods. An 8/4 to 12/4 piece of wood 12+ inches wide and 10' long is just too big for me to run through the machines myself. I've done it, and my back squeals like a pig.
In the end I went with the Festool, but it could have gone either way for me.

Those Diablos are nice little blades, eh? I use them all the time with my Makita. Great value for the $$$!