mounting the TS overhead blade guard to the ceiling, with x/y adjustment?

[Zane Harris]

How about a discussion regarding methods/ideas for mounting a table saw overhead blade guard to the ceiling with provisions for fine tuning the x/y positions to align with the blade if needed? Right now I'm thinking about a two layer construction using a lot of t-track. Would like to hear/see other ideas.

[Brett Bobo]

There's a similar post that I just responded to in the general woodworking forum showing the overhead blade guard version I made. I went through the same thought process to provide some lateral adjustability; however, ended up deciding against it since the width of my blade guard is 6" with approximately 3" on each side of the blade. With a plumb bob you can dial in precisely where you want to locate the overhead support structure on the ceiling and still give yourself enough clearance on each side of the blade, even with the narrower commercial blade guards.

[Rod Sheridan]

Brett's answer is correct, you hang the guard with the machine in place, no requirement for future adjustment aside from what the guard will provide for left/right alignment.

(Think blade tilt and ripping thin strips)............Rod.

[Jason Beam]

I disagree - you need to be able to adjust it sometimes ... here's how i fashioned mine:

http://gallery.beamerweb.com/index.p...op/Blade-Guard

Though it's a little overkill - I had to straddle a light fixture and like any excuse to use my welder :P

[Zane Harris]

Jason, thanks for the pics. http://gallery.beamerweb.com/index.p...Guard/000_0179 This close up of the ceiling mount is along the lines of what I was envisioning, except I was picturing dual tracks instead of a single track (and then a second panel with dual tracks running 90 degrees to the first panel, to give me both x and y adjustmen, yeah, I know, overkill). Do you find the single track to be rigid enough? My overall drop from the ceiling to the table saw in only about 4 feet, so that will help in the rigidity department. Thanks. (Edit, I just noticed the second set of t-tracks in the other pics, you do have the x and y adjustment! I still am curious if you find the single track in the blue panel to be rigid enough?)

[Jason Beam]

I still am curious if you find the single track in the blue panel to be rigid enough?)

Yes - plenty. Honestly, there isn't much stress on that thing and I can't imagine needing more. I'd've used one on the X adjustment, too, if i hadn't needed to leapfrog over a light fixture. I have since removed that fixture and no longer need the leapfrogging but since it's built, it's built!

I also replaced the springs on the parallelogram mechanism with a pneumatic thingy - like on car hatchbacks - much improved. Someday I'll get an updated video of that modification.

[Dick Mahany]

Here's how I did mine. My saw must be mobile so I get rough X/Y when I position it. Fine adjustment is done with the tubing and channel. Works fine, but I wish I didn't have to set it up each time

IMGP5913.jpgIMGP5914.jpgIMGP5919.jpgIMGP5924.jpgIMGP5925.jpgIMGP5926.JPGIMGP5927.jpg

[Dave huber]

I put lengths of unistrut from the electrical dept. at the Borg on the ceiling in my shop.
I hang cords, lights, hoses, sanders and "stuff" from it.
Very versatile. Cheap.
Could easily do X/Y

Dave

[Dick Mahany]

I put lengths of unistrut from the electrical dept. at the Borg on the ceiling in my shop.
I hang cords, lights, hoses, sanders and "stuff" from it.
Very versatile. Cheap.
Could easily do X/Y

Dave

+1 on the Unistrut. I used it overhead on mine and it is extremely versatile. Very easy to make hardwood sliders to attach anything to it and have adjustability. I used several section in my set up and they are great.