Help a newbie learn and design a workbench - Lots of pictures

[Brad Owens, OH]

Hello to the wonderful Sawmill Creek community! Thank you so much for all of the information you've provided so far as I lurked through your forum archives.

I'm 99% new to woodworking (I've built a few rickety skateboard and bike jumps as a kid) and I'm trying it out as a new hobby as well as a way to keep me busy through these cold Cleveland winters. My first project is a workbench. So far I've done a lot of research on woodworking (mostly here) and using SketchUp. It's been a lot of fun so far and a great departure from what I'm normally into. I know I can simply go to the big box stores and pick up a kit but I want to use this project as a way to learn a few different techniques and I like the added bonus of it being custom to fit my garage space. I'll be using it as a general purpose bench for projects like changing the brakes on the cars, putting together things for the kids, fixing pieces from around the house, throwing a vise on it to "adjust" some bent pieces on my truck and probably a lot of other things.

Here's what I've drawn out:





The basics are:
3 x 3/4" MDF + 1/4" sacrificial tempered hardboard top with trim around it and a 3/4" x 2" backsplash to stop any stray hardware from falling to the floor. I'll glue and screw the MDF together then lay the hardboard on top maybe held in by double sided carpet tape so it's easy to remove.
6'x30" main bench top with a 4'x2' side bench top (so I can cut each layer from the same piece of 4'x8')
Front of the bench will be 36" high (Sloped garage floor means it's shorter in the back)
4x4 legs and side supports
4x4 back support attached to the studs so it doesn't tip
2x4 framed lower shelf
1' overhang on the right for a vise in the future that's supported by the 4x4 into the studs
8" overhang around the front for ease of clamping and knee clearance when sitting

Here is the top:



Here is the frame:



I tried to avoid butt joints everywhere so the stringers, legs and supports are connected by half laps:



The side support 4x4's are connected to the legs with 1" dowels:



What this results in is a frame that looks really intimidating to me:



And legs that look like even more fun:



Note that I also have a sloped garage floor for drainage (measured it to be roughly 1 degree) so the legs will also be different lengths and have angled bottoms:



I want to settle on the design before I worry about how to make it. It looks over-engineered to me but I like the idea that it would be rock solid and hold up to anything.

What I need from the community are your opinions. What do you see here that may be causes for concern in relation to the design?

What would you change?

Are any of these joints going to weaken the structure? The legs have half laps cut into both sides and I'm curious if that's a bad idea.

Would I be looking at issues with the top over time with this much overhang?

I have no problem with this project being a stretch for my abilities. I want to use it as a learning opportunity. That being said, have I bitten off more than I can chew with this design?

I think it would be really cool not to have to use any fasteners to hold the frame together but I'm assuming these joints won't be strong enough without them (but what do I know??). Does this need fasteners? If it will need them, what do you suggest?

Thanks in advance,
-Brad

[Prashun Patel]

The internal supports don't need to be half lapped into the stretchers, IMHO. That's a lot of buck for not much bang. I'd just butt joint them with pocket screws or even screwed in from the outside or doweled.

I also would not angle the feet. I'd use shims or leg levelers.

Last, I would make the two units independent, and bolt the legs together if you really want a single unit.

[Brad Owens, OH]

The internal supports don't need to be half lapped into the stretchers, IMHO. That's a lot of buck for not much bang. I'd just butt joint them with pocket screws or even screwed in from the outside or doweled.

I also would not angle the feet. I'd use shims or leg levelers.

Thanks, Prashun. I agree with you that this could be much simpler if I didn't half lap the stretchers. I like using this as a learning opportunity and I like your idea of doweling. Maybe I'll try that. Leg levelers may have to make my shopping list as well.

Very curious to hear what others have to say as well.

[Todd Burch]

I would lose the dowels shown in the pictures and use a through bolt with a captured nut in the cross piece. Think bed-bolt hardware. I would use 2X2s instead of 2X4s for the shelf supports, or, I would just use 3/4 ply for the shelves and omit shelf supports.

Todd

[Todd Burch]

...That's a lot of buck for not much bang.

A lot of bang for not much buck!

[Jerry Miner]

Looks like overkill to me.

If you're going to screw it to the wall, you probably don't need the back legs at all. Any pounding you do will be in the front (hopefully directly over a leg)

The notches in the stretchers will weaken them. I would use something else (butt joints, with fasteners or dowels)

The 4 x 4 on the wall could easily be a 2 x 4 instead---easier to attach, and what does the extra thickness do for you? (Could be a 1 x for that matter)

8" overhang on a 24" top is a little too much, IMHO. 2" is plenty to clamp to.

[Brad Owens, OH]

I would lose the dowels shown in the pictures and use a through bolt with a captured nut in the cross piece.

Todd

That's a good idea, Todd. The more I thought about the dowel and putting glue on the end grain, the more I'm realizing that it wouldn't be strong and may even be allowed to spin.

[Brad Owens, OH]

Looks like overkill to me.

If you're going to screw it to the wall, you probably don't need the back legs at all. Any pounding you do will be in the front (hopefully directly over a leg)

The notches in the stretchers will weaken them. I would use something else (butt joints, with fasteners or dowels)

The 4 x 4 on the wall could easily be a 2 x 4 instead---easier to attach, and what does the extra thickness do for you? (Could be a 1 x for that matter)

8" overhang on a 24" top is a little too much, IMHO. 2" is plenty to clamp to.

Good points, Jerry. I'll work on another sketch. I think I'll keep the back legs just for experience of building a full table but I'll re-think the 4x4's in back.

[James Tibbetts]

She'll be sturdy!!
As a general purpose work benck I think the top could be a single piece of 3/4" ply with the hardboard face. Woodworking benches are typically freestanding and massive
to provide stability while pushing lenthwise, or sideways (planing). Attatching to the wall will keep it still; you really don't need all that mass. IMHO. YMMV.
Fun project. Have at it!!

[Todd Burch]

What James said is something I learned when starting to make built-ins. If I was making a cabinet, how sturdy did I need to make it, SINCE I WAS GOING TO PERMANENTLY ATTACH IT TO A HOUSE?!

Todd

[Brad Owens, OH]

What James said is something I learned when starting to make built-ins. If I was making a cabinet, how sturdy did I need to make it, SINCE I WAS GOING TO PERMANENTLY ATTACH IT TO A HOUSE?!

Todd

Ha. Excellent point! I'm redrawing throughout today and tomorrow. Hope to have a new draft soon.

[Prashun Patel]

half-lapping stretchers: I think that's a good move (looks better, stronger joint). half-lapping all those cross-members between the stretchers is what I meant by not much bang for buck.

Oh yeah, one other thing: are you planning to add a vise to this?

[Brad Owens, OH]

Oh yeah, one other thing: are you planning to add a vise to this?

I am. That right side 12" overhang is where it will be. My new sketch will show it more clearly.

[Brad Owens, OH]

OK. Back for more. Here is the updated sketch. Let me know your thoughts now.

see bigger here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dadowens/11860940466/


see bigger here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dadowens/11860553164/


My biggest question is since I'm moving to fasteners instead of glue, what do I do with the half lapped stretchers?

[Garrett Ellis]

My biggest question is since I'm moving to fasteners instead of glue, what do I do with the half lapped stretchers?

...leave them off. Seriously, with 3 layers of mdf, i think you will be fine.