Handrail construction advice

[Bill Erskine]

Our house has a wrap-around porch. In several locations the wood railing (handrail and toe-rail) are rotting where they attach to a post. The handrail has a unique profile, which I couldn't find at any of the local outlets and the custom molding shop I contacted was way too pricey.

So, decided to do this myself. I cut out a section of the rail near some rot and then cut some thin slices to find router bits that would cut the profile. I've found router bits that are darn close to matching the profile of the rails. Most rails will be less than 5 feet long, but two are 10 feet long. The existing handrail is 2.75" inch high, by 3.5" wide overall. It was made of four 1"(ish) poplar boards glued together. I'm planning on doing the same, but want to make sure of the steps and their order before proceeding. So, I plan to...

1. Edge-joint four 3" wide poplar boards (s4s) to get a flat reference edge.
2. Plane faces so total width = final width.
3. Glue (Titebond 3 OK?) the faces together to form the 3.5" width. Thought I would lay the boards flat on my workbench (to keep it flat) and align the jointed edge to keep it straight. Any suggestions on keeping the boards from slip-sliding when the glue is wet. (Thought I'd brad-nailing the boards for glue up in an area where I won't be routing the profile. But don't want to hit a nail when later trimming to length. Also thought about the small brad driven part way in and then snipped off near the surface to hold the next board in place when clamped.)
4. Clean-up squeeze-out (scraper, belt-sander) and re joint the reference edge.
5. Plane opposite face to final height.
6. Use dado-blade to cut dado for spindles.
7. Set up the router table for routing the profiles (top profiles first since that is a horizontal bit), then side profiles (vertical bit). The router bits will be mostly buried in the fence.
8. Sand, prime and cut to size, before final installation.

Comments?

Thanks in Advance.

[Steve Evans]

Have you thought about using other than poplar. I've used cedar for handrails, but I would suspect cypress would work as well, and last longer than poplar.

Steve

[Ralph Steffey]

Bill I have never had any luck trying to get the boards not to slip in the glue if I were you I would mill all my lumber at 4 inches,glue,joint and then rip to 3.5 on the table saw that way every thing is straight to start with for routing. Also I am mailing you a package in the morning watch your mail box wed or thurs.

[Ray Bersch]

Bill;
Ralph and Steve offer good advice - glue up first then cut to size, you will be happier with the results and it will be quicker in the long run - consider a material other than poplar - I second Steve's suggestion for cypress - it is much perfered for exterior work.

Titebond 3 should work if you protect the wood real well (it is water resistant, not water proof) but if you are making long rails you might consider a polyurethane - it is definately water proof and it has less creep.

Be sure to prime each and every part before assembly and I'd suggest you add one more part to your Step #8 as follows: Sand, prime, cut to size, prime cut edges, install. And add Step #9 - fill all nail holes, prime as needed and apply 2 coats of final paint.

The real key to a long lasting exterior rail job is to use the right material and then protect the heck out of it to keep water out, especially end grain. Even nail holes allow water in which raise the paint and starts the rotting process. I have had too many call backs on new houses because my sub failed to pay attention to the basics.

Ray