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Thread: Pitted iron back

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judson Green View Post
    I was questioning my purchase of this plane but thought the usefulness of having two jointers (I have a # 7) was worth it. Is this sound judgment? I still use a fence on the #7 when edge jointing, training wheels still on.
    For many years my feeling was a #7 would be my biggest plane. Then a good deal on a #8 came my way. Having both is nice, not a necessity. Recently a second #8 was acquired. My plans for that are to sell it eventually. At one time I had a pair of #7s. One was sold.

    Some planes it may make sense to have more than one for different tasks. For the jointers, having one of each size is plenty for me. Most people would likely do fine with just one or the other. If one is switching from straight to cambered blades all the time then maybe having two jointers makes some sense.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georg Zudoff View Post
    Hi Judson,
    Of course a microbevel is a solution. But look here http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?...162#msg1019162
    message #555
    Sorry in Russian, but this man describe rehabbing old irons.
    He have had a grinder - photo 1 in message body. But he did it only for dished iron. Further he take a piece of old grinding wheel and break it to a sand (photo 2).
    After we are lapping old irons with this breaked piece of grinding wheel over a sheet of laminated board (for floor).
    Last two photos are the result - one iron took about 15-20 minutes, 3 irons - one hour and a lot of elbow grease, right?
    Thanks Georg. That's really quite clever. I can't figure out what kind of sink abrasive that is. I've never seen anything hard and chunky like that.

    Used Google translate, I think it got it mostly right. Below is a paragraph after Google translate.

    When enchanted glands especially gives me a lot of trouble removing the front plane of the blade. Most irons I strongly b / y, usually rusty, often with deep scallops from rust and strewn plane. With mechanization tight - no belt sanders.
    First choose to undercut the winepress guboe to bare metal, especially caring not to touch the front and side edges of the cutting edge.


    giggity
    Last edited by Judson Green; 01-14-2014 at 12:47 PM.

  3. #18
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    Hi Judson,
    This man has took used and broken sanding wheels from the industrial junkyard. With high grits, I think.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georg Zudoff View Post
    Hi Judson,
    This man has took used and broken sanding wheels from the industrial junkyard. With high grits, I think.
    Oh! And then smashed them to use as a loose abrasive, clever.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    For many years my feeling was a #7 would be my biggest plane. Then a good deal on a #8 came my way. Having both is nice, not a necessity. Recently a second #8 was acquired. My plans for that are to sell it eventually. At one time I had a pair of #7s. One was sold.

    Some planes it may make sense to have more than one for different tasks. For the jointers, having one of each size is plenty for me. Most people would likely do fine with just one or the other. If one is switching from straight to cambered blades all the time then maybe having two jointers makes some sense.

    jtk

    Thanks Jim. I thought having two jointers would be a good idea. Mostly cause I'm still using the fence once in a while, getting better, perhaps soon I can take the training wheels off. But yeah also to have a slight camber on one.

    Daniels post what Steve Voigt wrote has got me rethinking the this large heavy metal.


    Count me as a big fan of the 6. It's the largest metal I use any more; if I need a longer plane, it's just so much more pleasant to push a wooden plane than a 7 or 8.

    Might need to make a big wooden jointer.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Judson Green View Post
    Daniels post what Steve Voigt wrote has got me rethinking the this large heavy metal.
    Didn't mean to put you off your new plane! Give it try; you might like it. YMMV and all that. If nothing else, tune it up and you can probably sell it for more than you paid.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Voigt View Post
    Didn't mean to put you off your new plane! Give it try; you might like it. YMMV and all that. If nothing else, tune it up and you can probably sell it for more than you paid.
    No worries. Just came up from the basement after a little test drive. First impression is gosh that things heavy. Could aggravated my back using it for a long period of time. I'm not built like Jim (I saw him, unless that was his stunt double, in a you tube video showing how to flatten a plane sole) and he looks stout/strong not me I'm tall and lanky. The blade being pitted kinda sucks, getting little raised ridges on the surface, sort of expected that, was hoping for the best. Easy enough to clean up with a 4 though. At this point I'd be inclined to keep it but also start thinking of making a wooden jointer. Either way a good experience.
    Last edited by Judson Green; 01-14-2014 at 5:03 PM.

  8. #23
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    One other source of 2-5/8" wide irons: A Stanley #33 or 34. Both have the right width. The slot might be a tad narrow, though.

    Last year, sold my #8c, type 9. Was just too big for the stuff I do. Now using a re-built DE6c, with a "shark" stamped on the iron. Does make full width ( 2-3/8") see-through shavings, though.

    For a #8 iron, you MIGHT check out and see if Eric has any at nhplaneparts.com

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judson Green View Post

    First choose to undercut the winepress guboe to bare metal, especially caring not to touch the front and side edges of the cutting edge.

    giggity
    This is very good advice. I only wish I would have thought of this first....

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