Member
BTW,have you tried to buy an ice cube tray lately? Even Lowe's does not sell them. "All our fridges make cubes automatically". I don't use that feature because I use filtered water. What a pain to find one. My wife found some at the Dollar Store. They are so flimsy,they sag when filled and nearly spill the water.
Member
We bought some terrible flimsy ones at the grocery store; that was no good, so we bought some at a fancy kitchen supply store in town. (They have some really nice knives, too, but we mostly go there for the CO2 for our seltzer maker) We saw the same thing cheaper later on at Bed Bath and Beyond. I like the rubbery kind, because sooner or later the plastic kind break. We had an old metal one with the "flippers" for the longest time, but I don't know what the heck happened too it. I should ask my wife, now that I think about it.
" Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice
Contributor
Check antique stores. That's where I got my "church key" style bottle opener. I got tired of paying for bottle openers that only worked once or twice, and were made of such horrible metal that they immediately start to bend and become useless. My mom has the same one she had when I was growing up. One day, I went to the antique store and found a whole box of them. I grabbed one for $.25. That was 7 years ago.
Member
Newb question of the day....why hide glue? Is it better than wood glue or is it just taking traditional woodworking one step further?
Member
The biggest advantage of hide glue, either hot or bottled is it's easily reversible if you screw up or need to repair vintage furniture, or remove squeeze out you missed. Traditional hot hide glue has the advantage of very quick setting, for joints that aren't overly stressed, you can do a "rub joint" and glue up two boards without clamps. Bottled liquid hide glue has the advantage of a long open time allowing you to plenty of time to put together carcase pieces without panic.
" Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice
Contributor
Believe it or not, it also has great resistance to heat. Not moist heat, but locked in your car heat. I tend to use it on headstock breaks. It holds well and if the headstock should ever break again, its not a repair nightmare for the next guy. Use Titebond or something like that, the only choice is epoxy next time around.
Member
Regarding the alternatives, like Old Brown Glue, Titebond Liquid Hide, etc:
Has anyone tested to see if they creep over time? One of the major pluses of regular hide glue, besides the fact that you can easily soften it undo a seam, is that it exhibits very little movement. Typical wood glues like Titebond I & II move quite a bit, if given the chance.
For most furniture building, this isn't an issue due to the joints we use. However, in some case like instrument building, veneering (to some extent) etc it definitely is something to consider.
So.... what's the verdict?
Contributor
When I was doing some veneer work a few years ago, Urea-formaldehyde resin (a powder you mix with water) was the most secure in this regard, for veneer. Dangerous, toxic stuff, but no creep at all.
David
Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)
Contributor
I disagree that yellow glues creep. White glue has a lot of creep and that is one of the main reasons that it has been superseded by yellow glue. There is a difference between being flexible and creep. Creep used to mean two surfaces would actually shift out of alignment after the glue was set. I have never seen that happen with yellow glue. If there is a different current meaning,I wish someone would say what it is.
Member
Originally Posted by Mel Fulks
I HAVE seen it happen. First-hand, and on two different projects. Both were guitar repairs, where the joint was under some pressure. One was probably Titebond I, and the other was definitely Titebond II. After that, I did some reading, and found lots of documentation on this being the case.
Probably, Titebond is just much better than white glue, but not equal to hide glue. Then again, I don't know if any serious clinical tests have ever been done. I don't remember the specifics of the articles I read back then. (many years ago)
Member
Read the following link. It spells out the use pretty well. Hide glue is reversible and also easy to rejuvenate with warm water.
http://oldhouseblog.blogspot.com/201...hide-glue.html
Contributor
I can understand that on a guitar,Allan. Yellow glue is not often reccommended for instruments, and that is probably one of the reasons. But the movement that can occur overnight on a white glued mortise and tenon joint, does not happen with yellow glue. Seen furniture go back to work room because of white glue a number of times in a late 1960s employment .Boss saw what was happening but would not allow hot glue.
Member
I successfully (so far) use Titebond Liquid HG for rubbed joints. Put bottle in hot water for a while, brush it on generously and rub until grabs. I only do this for two board glue up. I use clamps for multiple board glue ups because of the issues (for me) in balancing the boards.
Member
As Joshua points out, it's easily reversible and can be cleaned up easily with warm water even after it dries. Of course, if you're making something that may get wet -- say, a cutting board -- that's bad, not good. There are other reasons to use it in musical instruments that have to do with the sound, but that's about all I know on that topic -- George can give you a better explanation. If you're repairing antiques, it's probably what was used originally and therefore more authentic. And then there's just the "cool" factor, or to put it less flippantly, the satisfaction of doing things the way they were done in the past.
Michael Ray Smith
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote