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Thread: What finish for Oak shop floor?

  1. #1

    What finish for Oak shop floor?

    I can't sort out which would be easiest to apply and maintain Waterlox, Pure Tung oil, or BLO? Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Issaquah, Washington
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    Waterlox. It self adhears so recoating is easy.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Milwaukee, WI
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    BLO is not only easy to apply and maintain but it's cheap. It's a shop floor. Not a dining room. Here is my oak shop floor.

    WP_20131128_005 small.jpg

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by George Bregar View Post
    BLO is not only easy to apply and maintain but it's cheap. It's a shop floor. Not a dining room. Here is my oak shop floor.

    WP_20131128_005 small.jpg
    Do I need to sand between coats?
    How many coats?
    How much time between coats?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Milwaukee, WI
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    I didn't sand period. It's a shop floor. I actually didn't want it too smooth because it can then get slick with dust. I just used a roller...one coat.

  6. #6
    Wow. Way easier than I thinking!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bregar View Post
    BLO is not only easy to apply and maintain but it's cheap. It's a shop floor. Not a dining room. Here is my oak shop floor.

    WP_20131128_005 small.jpg
    George,
    That is one serious looking saw.

  8. #8
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Fleck View Post
    George,
    That is one serious looking saw.
    Thanks. It's an Oliver No. 88-DX. Fairly rare it seems, I cannot find another example anywhere. 5 HP direct drive motor, 16" blade, you can crosscut 48" on the sliding table. Weighs 3000 pounds.

  9. #9
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    Sep 2007
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    George,
    Is that red oak or white? I was thinking of putting oak in my shop, but having been leaning toward Hickory only because it is harder. Have any of your tools made indentations in your wood?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Milwaukee, WI
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    It's red oak. "Rustic" grade. Cheap. But for a shop...perfect. That table saw in the photo is 3000 pounds. I rolled it in on a pallet jack. Moved it around with a johnson bar. The floor is fine. But if not, I really wouldn't care. Anyway, hickory would be good, but necessary.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    South Dakota
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    Another question George,
    I have a previous post of yours saved when you were asking for suggestions for getting power to the middle of the floor. You ran electric under the wood, right? At the time you were considering running flex through the floor to a box mounted on the tool. I see the power cord on the saw and wonder what you ended up doing.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Milwaukee, WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Neil View Post
    Another question George,
    I have a previous post of yours saved when you were asking for suggestions for getting power to the middle of the floor. You ran electric under the wood, right? At the time you were considering running flex through the floor to a box mounted on the tool. I see the power cord on the saw and wonder what you ended up doing.
    There is a thread on my floor install here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...light=delta-fl but I cut into the slab and ran my dust collection and conduit for power.


    dust.jpg

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