Can hollow chisel mortiser chisels be taken apart (i.e., can you take out the drill bit?). You might be able to get a cheap one if they can, take the drill bit out and sharpen it.
Can hollow chisel mortiser chisels be taken apart (i.e., can you take out the drill bit?). You might be able to get a cheap one if they can, take the drill bit out and sharpen it.
Daniel,
I'd get the punches that Mike showed. I've done at least that many at a time for several sets of mission-style night stands that had a zillion square spindles. I don't ever want to do that again without at least a square punch. Actually, if I ever do those again I'm going to say the heck with it and get a hollow chisel mortiser. It's just too much of a pain in the butt.
Actually, in his season 2 book, Tommy Mac made his own punch out of square steel stock. If you are just looking to establish the corners to a short depth, mild steel would work, though you will need to touch it up now and again. 1/4" square stock dirt cheap from lots of places. Would I do it? Probably not, but it could be done and would be cheap.
You can get just get one bit then. Half the cost of the square chisel and they should be up to the task for this one project. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...40,53317,41702
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"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
I chop very small holes for kumiko in shoji, and a lot of them; so why not use a 1/4" mortising chisel.
Dan,
Go ahead and give it a shot on some scrap using the drill and chisel clean up method. I did this on a Mission bench with 28 such mortises. It really did not take that long to chop them square. Plus, you're not going all the way through- just enough for the tenon. I think I even played with chopping some using a mortise chisel, but I got more consistent results with drilling first.
Maurice
Here's the results of drilling a 1/4" hole and squaring the edges with a 1/4" chisel. It only took 2 or 3 gentle taps on each side to get to the bottom. Carefully laying out the lines with a knife took some time but I'd want to do that no matter what. The chisel work was about 30 seconds per hole. I chopped the 2 sides and then used a 1/8" chisel to clear the debris. The knife lines really made it easy to register the chisel properly.
I just need to be slow and methodical real pieces and I think they'll turn out fine.
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Here's the joints open. The test pickets and rail are full size except for the length.
Small_mortise.jpg
Assembled they came out straight, square and snug with just a tiny bit of fitting
-- Dan Rode
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle
Good job, Dan!
Maurice