Framed Slab Doors

[Ed Jumbolia]

I am a relatively new woodworker that is tossing about ideas on how to make kitchen cabinet doors. I have made raised panel doors in the past. My thinking is that I want the ones in the kitchen to be maple, frameless, full overlay and flat.

This brings me to slab doors. Now I know that wood expands and contracts. I have read that slabs can have warping issues if not down correctly.

I would like to know opinions on making flat panel doors that are essentially floating slabs sitting in a frame. Only the frame gets glued. When constructed, the appearance is that of a flat door. Is there any benefit to doing this regarding expansion/warping vs. a slab?

Ed.

[George Gyulatyan]

I would go with veneered MDF doors.

[Ed Jumbolia]

I would go with veneered MDF doors.

I would like to use wood if I can. The sound of it is preferred.

The idea I have is to use a floating slab (panel) like you see attached- mitered or cope & stick. Question is whether this would provide any advantage to just a slab? Only the frame gets glued and everything is at the same depth.

Ed.

[Stephen Musial]

The wood is going to either expand or contract so you'll only have the slab when it's completely expanded (If you build it when expansion is at its greatest). When it contracts, there will be a reveal around the sides but not the top as wood moves side to side for the most part. If you wanted to do it that way, then use plywood in lieu of a solid wood panel and you can glue it all the way around to make a rock solid slab, albeit with the grain running in different directions.

If you want to make a slab door, use 3" or 4" pieces of wood and alternate the growth rings to avoid major cupping.

[Jerry Miner]

You can certainly make a frame-and-panel door with a flush panel. I would put in an obvious "shadow line" at the panel perimeter, with a big enough space there that the seasonal movement won't be so obvious. If you go tight, the gap will look like a mistake when it forms. I'd use 1/8-3/16" at a minimum.

If you want a slab door, veneered mdf is about the most stable.

Ever seen an antique with a solid wood slab door? Why not? Answer: they don't hold up over time

[Ed Jumbolia]

Thank you for everyone's input.

Ed.

[Sam Murdoch]

A slab panel in a door is just as "good" as a raised panel as regards to durability and function.

As Jerry Miner wrote for a flush panel (a look I like very much) you need to allow clearance around the perimeter - on the face but also inside where it slots into the frame. This is a good place to use space balls to maintain the margins. I typically pin at the top and bottom center through the panel and rails to restrict the movement equally on the edges. I sit the panel hard in a slot on the bottom rail.

Of course the panels/slabs need to be constructed properly, i.e., with flat stock glued together consistent with maintaing a flat finished panel.

[Ed Jumbolia]

Sam,

Like a raised panel, I take it that a slot clearance of about 1/8" on the sides 1/16" on top and bottom is good enough. A visible panel gap (shadow line) of 1/8-3/16" from the frame plus use space balls to stabilize.

What method do you use to pin down the panel? An images of a finished door would be appreciated.

Ed.

[Sam Murdoch]

Sam,

Like a raised panel, I take it that a slot clearance of about 1/8" on the sides 1/16" on top and bottom is good enough. A visible panel gap (shadow line) of 1/8-3/16" from the frame plus use space balls to stabilize.

What method do you use to pin down the panel? An images of a finished door would be appreciated.

Ed.

The outside panel gap of 1/8" should be plenty especially if you pin the centers. I just use a micro pinner through the face or a carefully sized bigger gauge through the back. Do a few test pins to check your pressure so that you don't come through the face otherwise pin by hand with a 1/2" long brad. Here in my "SamMill Creek album" is an example -http://www.sawmillcreek.org/album.ph...hmentid=225021

In this case the real expansion joint is top to bottom. The panels are not glued up rather each board is connected to the next with a loose spline, but the flush effect with the clearance slot is clearly visible. All this would work just as well with a panel made up of glued together boards. Sorry - no examples of that option currently available in computer friendly photos.