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Thread: Photographing laser engraved items for website.

  1. #16
    I will give that a try this afternoon.

    Before you posted that I tried to force it to focus by focusing on a piece of card board placed in front of the cakepan, locking the focus removing the cardboard then taking the picture but that was worse than letting it do it on it's own.

    So far I have had the most luck by adjusting the shutter speed to 1/15th of a second and adjusting the lighting 'till I get something that works but it isn't repeatable.
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  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Grand Rapids, Minnesota
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    305
    Joe -
    Looks like you're getting all kinds of extremely detailed, and sound, advice from very knowledgeable people - 'bout photographing items. (for a web site you're going create?) I paid "web designers" quite 'bit of money for 'bout two years - 'fore I realized my "host" offers a terrific - and FREE - web building program called RV Site Builder. (the advantage to me: I am now able to change my site, and product photos, on my own ... and within minutes.) $9.89 a mo. to maintain my site on-line through my host. (shortly after eliminating the "designers" my sales took off!) Quality photos are wonderful, I guess - but, average snap 'n click photos are making sales! (maybe, just something to think 'bout?) ('cause site product photos are typically small, and lower dpi, and, shouldn't require so much fuss? Hopefully, you don't mind my saying all this ...

    Bill

  3. #18
    Bill, The site I am working on allows the customer to zoom way into the photo. Right now I am am getting photographs that would be plenty good for a site like etsy or a printed brochure but they are just barley adequate for what I am doing so I figure it is worth spending a few days playing with the camera to see how good of photos I can get.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  4. #19
    Join Date
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    Joe,
    Since your camera doesnt make it easy to manually focus, do you have an iphone or android you could try? They can do quite well.

    Also, if you try the cardboard again put some contrasting marks on it. The autofocus keys on that. A solid color is tough on it.

    If you happen to be near Seattle you are welcom to borrow a camera.

    Dave
    900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.

  5. #20
    Joe,
    Have you checked the lens itself? It may have fingerprints or dust on it which could be the cause. If so gently clean it with a soft cloth.


  6. #21
    Can you post the image(s) you are most happy with for us to see? That would help out a lot. I was a professional photographer in a past life and would be glad to help you out as much as possible. The polarizing filter will only cut down on glare from nonmetallic sources, so if its the aluminum that is soft edges, it will not help much (it will cut down on some of the light reflected from the other things in the image though).
    Keith Upton
    Aerodrome Accessories
    Epilog Mini 24 - 60w

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Upton View Post
    Can you post the image(s) you are most happy with for us to see? That would help out a lot. I was a professional photographer in a past life and would be glad to help you out as much as possible. The polarizing filter will only cut down on glare from nonmetallic sources, so if its the aluminum that is soft edges, it will not help much (it will cut down on some of the light reflected from the other things in the image though).

    Thanks for the offer. I will try and get some of the better pictures posted this afternoon.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  8. #23
    If its that critical that the customer see the fine print you could always have some small samples of the lettering to mail them. I don't know what your engraving on but a 1x2" piece is cheap to mail in an envelope to show them the quality.Just a thought.
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
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  9. #24
    Is the camera actually on a tripod at all?

    A tripod plus a remote or wired trigger is essential to getting a clear photo.

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Kozakewycz View Post
    Is the camera actually on a tripod at all?

    A tripod plus a remote or wired trigger is essential to getting a clear photo.
    It is on a tripod and I am using the two second timer to make sure it isn't shaking.

    Using the same set up I can get beautiful photos of the wooden items I am putting on the site it is just the metal on the cakepans that is causing me a problem.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  11. #26
    I do still plan to put up pictures of my results it is just that I haven't gotten around to it yet.
    Last edited by Joe Hillmann; 02-14-2014 at 10:34 AM.
    Universal M-300 (35 Watt CO2)
    Universal X-660 (50 Watt CO2)

    Hans (35 watt YAG)
    Electrox Cobra (40 watt YAG)


    Glass With Class, Cameron, Wisconsin

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ferguson MO USA
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    141
    I have had good results by altering the product. Looks really good in the pic, just like it should.

    I have problems with light bouncing off of the high gloss lacquer that I use for my products. What I do is to make an extra one just for the photo shoot. I dull the lacquer slightly with 0000 steel wool. This cuts down the edge of the shine and makes the picture look wonderful. I know it's a dumb idea but it does work for me.
    Laser - Universal PLS 6.60; CNC Router - Gerber 408
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  13. #28
    Jim

    We used a wash off spray to knock down the shine. I can't remember what it was but it was very effective.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

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  14. #29
    Join Date
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    Joe,

    I was pondering your problem a bit more last night and had another thought for you to try that would be simple.
    Bounce your light.

    In other words, rather than placing your lights at 45 degree angles to your object but still aiming the lights at it, instead use a white sheet or cardboard and aim the lights at that, and let the reflected light from that illuminate your object. No direct light from the lamps would be hitting the object. Just the reflected light coming off the white cardboard or sheeting. That kind of thing works beautifully on very shiny objects like silverware and glass, but it also can work wonders with something that has a softer reflection. And it is easy to try with things you have on hand and not too much fuss to set up. If it worked, it is easy enough to make a setup that you can easily setup quickly as you want to photograph things.

    If space is an issue (it does take a bit more space to do this kind of reflected lighting) you could put a white sheet between the light and the object and diffuse the light that way. That is less effective than a bounced light though if reflection is really the cause of this issue.

    One caution when you reflect light this way. I think you said you were using a tripod? If not, be doubly sure that you do. When you reflect the light you are effectively increasing the distance between the light source and your object, and reducing the amount of light reaching it. Your exposures will increase as the light levels decrease and your camera needs to be even more rock steady than before.

    Dave
    Last edited by David Somers; 02-14-2014 at 1:05 PM.
    900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Kozakewycz View Post
    Is the camera actually on a tripod at all?

    A tripod plus a remote or wired trigger is essential to getting a clear photo.
    Only if the poor quality is do to camera shake (too slow of a shutter speed).

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Beachler View Post
    I have had good results by altering the product. Looks really good in the pic, just like it should.

    I have problems with light bouncing off of the high gloss lacquer that I use for my products. What I do is to make an extra one just for the photo shoot. I dull the lacquer slightly with 0000 steel wool. This cuts down the edge of the shine and makes the picture look wonderful. I know it's a dumb idea but it does work for me.
    A polarizing filter would would great for you. Even if they don't make one to fit your camera, there are options out there that are not to expensive... that is if you have to "alter" quite a few of your products.

    Also keep in mind that light reflects the same as the angle of incident:

    Reflection%u00252Bof%u00252BLight.jpg

    You can reduce a lot of light glare simply by changing the direction you light is coming from.
    Keith Upton
    Aerodrome Accessories
    Epilog Mini 24 - 60w

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