How high should a sharpening station be?

[Mike Holbrook]

I think the first question one building a sharpening station might ask themselves is what tools do you want to sharpen. I am finding that some green woodworking tools have a different set of requirements. Drawknives, for instance, with handles on either side, have to be sharpened on a raised devise that keeps ones hands from hitting the table top. Some tools with curved blades, gouges, inshaves, drawnives, travishers, adzes, axes...may also have special requirements. Some of these items may require special jigs and positioning of the sharpening devices. Sometimes the more complicated blades on these devices may require/suggest that the sharpening device be taken to the tool.

I just ordered some of Lee Valley's diamond coated film, leather that I will attach to dowels and small pieces of wood that I will take to my tools. Some tools may be better sharpened held in a vise or hand held.

[Jim Koepke]

I think the first question one building a sharpening station might ask themselves is what tools do you want to sharpen.

Mike makes a good point.

The benches for my two sharpening stations were already in place when we moved here.

Recently a small bench was built for my power sharpening station. My procedure was to check everything for comfort. Even the front rail used as a foot rest.

Often when using my oil stone station the stones are picked up and used free hand in the air.

It would indeed be a sad day in the shop if sharpening couldn't be performed for lack of an area of the "correct" height.

So as with so many things in life:

YMMV!!!.jpg

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

I put them on my kitchen counter, so 35" or so. It's comfortable, I don't feel the need to be overly scientific about it, I saved that for my workbench.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Kitchen counter height works well for me, although there's also the height of the stones and the height of what I set the stones on to add to it. Kitchen counter height is also what I work with because that's where I sharpen, of course!

My sharpening technique is akin to what others have mentioned; I lock my arms, and get all my motion from my feet or my core; (at least when working the bevels) trying to move forward and back using my arms introduces a rocking motion and makes maintaining a consistent angle difficult. I don't, however, lock my arms at full extension as some have discussed Cosman using, that seems awkward to me. I lock my arms at my side, my elbows bent at a right angle, so my forearms are roughly parallel to the countertop. Seems more comfortable to me.

I think like many sharpening things, it's less right v. wrong, and more what appeals to you for whatever reason, as long as you don't hate it, and then stick with it. Particularly if you're freehand honing, being able to use the same height over and over takes one more variable out of it.

[Jim Neeley]

I don't know there's a "should height", there's what works for you and that depends in part on your level of fine dexterity.

The key (IMO) is to be able to maintain a controlled angle on the edge. Being one of those with probably lower dexterity than most, I have found a bench about 24" high (+ 2-3" for the stone holder) gives ME the best results. For ME in that position, my arms are straight, elbows locked and all of the motion is made in my shoulder joints (the sharpening motion). The reason this has worked for ME is because I am only moving one joint at a time (shoulders); when I try to coordinate moving shoulders, elbows, wrists and fingers I find it difficult to maintain a constant angle.

Just MY $0.02.. YMMV. :-)

Jim

[Tom M King]

I think the first question one building a sharpening station might ask themselves is what tools do you want to sharpen. I am finding that some green woodworking tools have a different set of requirements. Drawknives, for instance, with handles on either side, have to be sharpened on a raised devise that keeps ones hands from hitting the table top. Some tools with curved blades, gouges, inshaves, drawnives, travishers, adzes, axes...may also have special requirements. Some of these items may require special jigs and positioning of the sharpening devices. Sometimes the more complicated blades on these devices may require/suggest that the sharpening device be taken to the tool.

I just ordered some of Lee Valley's diamond coated film, leather that I will attach to dowels and small pieces of wood that I will take to my tools. Some tools may be better sharpened held in a vise or hand held.

You'll like the Diamond Lapping Film. I use it for final honing, and polishing. I keep a dedicated surface plate with the four films stuck to it. Also, I use it, like you are planning, to hone molding plane irons, on drill bit shanks, and other stuff that I can find that fits. I suggest only backing up with it though. It will get an edge so sharp, so fast, that it will cut right down and through the film if you go forward. It only takes 5 or 6 strokes for final honing. The stuff cuts REALLY fast.

[Tom Vanzant]

Mike, what Tom King said, especially don't push the iron forward. Instant cut/tear. But it does cut and polish fast.

[Mike Holbrook]

I have heard quite a few people say the diamond film is very fast. I have a couple fleabay drawknives that some knuckle head butchered, with some sort of power grinder, by the look of it. I ground out most of the edge trying to get rid of all the different levels & notches in the bevels, fast sounds good. I bought two of the kits. I plan to put one set on dowels. The other set on other shapes of wood for: gouges, hard to reach curved surfaces, small flat surfaces too small for the stones I have. I am trying diamond paste on wood and leather on wood too. So, I will have some sharpening surfaces that can handle rougher edges than the diamond film.

Sort of like a belt sander, not a good idea to run the blade into the belt. I do keep reminding myself about that.