Router plane advice

[Chris Griggs]

I more or less use the Kirby approach Warren describes for shoulders. Funny enough it is sorta the opposite of the mentality I just described since I am sawing away from the line, but at the same time there is no fitting. The saw just does the gross removal and then I chop, yes chop, not pare, right in the line. Tipping the chisel slightly forward and undercutting a little also avoids bruising the shoulder (except where shoulder meets shoulder at the edge of the board...obviously no undercutting there). Its a process that is more similar to first removing the waste in dovetails with a coping saw before chopping down with a chisel. It pretty much guarantees not only a true shoulder but also a clean shoulder and its pretty fast. For the cheeks, fit is important, as is trueness (e.g.no twist) but cleanliness less so, thus I find it quicker and more accurate to saw right to the line and minimize any trimming.

Sean, I just realized you posted while I was posting. Sounds like we are using a pretty identical method.

Generally, I just find it quicker to avoid the router plane on tenons unless I really beef up the cut. Ideally, I would not trim at all or at most just take a swipe or too with a float. It doesn't always happen that way, and because of that I have once again been considering getting a rabbet block or large shoulder (mine is a medium), as I would still rather take a couple quick swipes with a plane than use my router plane. The router plane is certainly very effective IF both faces are very parallel...that's another important distinction, I prep my stock by hand so in the name of efficiency I don't always take the time to make my faces are perfectly parallel or the exact same thickness and in those cases using the router plane can actually cut a tenon out of true. Not relying on the router plane lets me work from minimal reference faces. I think the router plane is a better trimming method for those using stock coming off a thickness planer.

[Jim Koepke]

I think the LV cutters will fit the old Stanley's although I have not tried yet.

My understanding is they will fit but the adjusting nut has to be flipped over to make them work.

My router is a Sargent that looks like a copy of the Stanley. Who knows who copied who?

I used to flip the nut. Then I put a wooden base on my router so it wouldn't leave metal marks on the work. That fixed the bit about having to flip the nut.

One thing that makes using a router plane easier for me wass to draw lines on the adjuster. I did mine in quarters and then eighths. Knowing my adjuster has 18 threads per inch and a little math indicates each 1/8th turn moves the blade down ~0.007".

jtk

[Judson Green]

My understanding is they will fit but the adjusting nut has to be flipped over to make them work.

My router is a Sargent that looks like a copy of the Stanley. Who knows who copied who?

I used to flip the nut. Then I put a wooden base on my router so it wouldn't leave metal marks on the work. That fixed the bit about having to flip the nut.

One thing that makes using a router plane easier for me wass to draw lines on the adjuster. I did mine in quarters and then eighths. Knowing my adjuster has 18 threads per inch and a little math indicates each 1/8th turn moves the blade down ~0.007".

jtk

LV cutters do fit the Stanley (at least my 71½). Not sure if I flipped the adjuster nut over or not, have a ~ ½" sub base attached.

[Jim Koepke]

Not sure if I flipped the adjuster nut over or not, have a ~ ½" sub base attached.

The sub base makes flipping the adjuster nut unnecessary.

jtk

[Steven J Corpstein]

I purchased the Lie Nielsen and after using it for several projects, bought the Lee Valley router. I like LN tools, but this one should have spent a bit more time in development. The small blade adaptor is fiddly and doesn't lock the blade into the plane in a positive way. I've had a time or two where the blade pulled out because the groove was tight and when I lifted the router up, it stuck in the groove and pulled out some. Lee Valley designed theirs so that it uses the same size blades (large and small) and they attach the same way making a much more predictable hookup.

[Warren Mickley]

Do you saw wide tenon shoulder this way as well? A really like the chiseling 1/32 or whatever when sawing a 6" long apron shoulder or the like.

And do you use any appliance in cutting? Bench hook or what have you? How about shoulder planes? Any role?

For especially wide tenons, like where I would make two or three tenons in series, I use a dado plane at the shoulder, then plane the rest with jack and smoothing plane to the line. As Nicholson (1812) says In this way you may make a tenon of any breadth.

I use a side hook for cutting tenon shoulders. I have never used a shoulder plane.

Chris, I suppose that with a router trimming there are some questions about the need for a precise back face. We certainly don't like using more than one reference surface. The nice thing about the traditional method is that the mortise gauge is set from the chisel and marks both tenon and mortise from the reference face, a lot less chances for cumulative error.

[Jim R Edwards]

I own a LN closed mouth large router plane and am very happy with it.