Dust collection routing question

[Bob Cooper]

My dust collection pipe will be in the basement --- i.e. Under the workshop. So I'm having trouble visualizing how I would route pipe to a shark guard or other 'over blade collection point' without it being in the way of the material being cut. Is it easier than it looks?

[fred klotz]

You will need what is usually called an 'overarm support'. There are several on the market, Penn State, Grizzly, and I've seen pics of some shop made solutions. Most extend from the right rear corner of the right extension table, and support the guard in addition to the hose.

[Jim Andrew]

Just put a Y in your line, plan where to put the Y by holding it up to your overhead line, and projecting the Y line to the point over your tablesaw guard. Use the size Y that fits your size of hose and dust connection on your guard, put an elbow on the end of the pipe over your saw, and just hang a hose down to the guard. You can just put a 2x2 or 2x4 screwed to the ceiling and a strap to support the line above the saw. If your ceiling is open, just screw the strap to the side of a joist. I am assuming you have dust piping overhead in your shop.

[Shane Copps]

Jim,
I think he is trying to go from an under-floor collection system. Then run a "line" up to the TS for an over-the-blade point. I'm not sure how this could be done unless you come up far enough away so that anything you cut on the TS wouldn't get caught on the "line".

Bob,
Would a stand alone (shop-vac style unit) be an option for over the blade? Possibly set the vac up above the TS? I think running a permanent line through the floor would take up a lot of flow room in a shop. You could run it up along a wall and across the ceiling, but that is going to add a bunch of distance to the run.

Shane

[Jim Neeley]

Bob,

Slide your rip fence to the (typically right) extent of where it still grips the table. This is as far to the right as a rip cut can go.

Then figure out the widest stock you will cross-cut on your table saw (typically limited by the miter gauge) and figure out how far forward the front edge of the board would be when the rear end was cut through by the blade.

As long as you stay to the forward-and-right of that for your riser (up through the floor), you're fine. Most overblade collection points mount to the right hand side of the extension table anyway and extract the dust through the support tube, this puts your riser and the collection point inlet relatively close together.

Just my $0.02.. YMMV.

Jim

The typical approach is to come up (or down) near or off the far right corner of the saw, beyond the

[Bob Cooper]

would i lose too much flow if i ran a pipe up along one of the walls, across the ceiling and then down? This would be a long run but that shark guard duct opening is not that big -- 2" (?). The shop is 16' wide and the table saw is somewhat equidistant from either side. all the ducting is 6" so i'd need to reduce the duct size maybe at wall before going up and over in order to keep the velocity up. If i did that i'd have about 6+8+6 feet of 2" ducting.

the far right hand side of my 50" table saw is used as a router table...so if i run the pipe up from the floor near the saw and go up and over i'll want to kind of stay clear of this.