Sheetrocking ceiling

[Randy Gazda]

I have sheetrocked walls but not many ceilings. I am about to do my new shop ceiling. I plan to use 12 x 4 x 5/8" sheetrock. The ceiling is currently is trusses on 24" centers (the space is 11.5' x 26'). My question is can I just screw to the trusses and edges (I installed 2x4s around the edge to screw into)? Or do I need to install blocking between the trusses or fir strips to the trusses?

Thanks in advance for your help, you guys (and gals) are always great.

[Bryan Rocker]

When I built HFH houses we just ran the Sheetrock and 90 degrees out from the trusses and screwed to them and to the screw strips where needed. We would usually put it up first then but the wall board up to it to help support the edges. I would highly recommend a drywall lift if you are doing 9 or 10' ceilings. For houses a simple pair of "T"s could keep the sheet rock in-place while you screwed it in.

Not sure that helps much.

Bryan

[Mel Fulks]

You didn't mention the adhesive. You need it.

[Jerome Stanek]

You didn't mention the adhesive. You need it.

We never used adhesive on ceilings just walls

[Randy Gazda]

Adhesive, Liquid Nails? Ceiling is 12' high debating between a lift and paying someone...

[James Tibbetts]

On that high a ceiling and with the weight of 5/8" x 12' sheets I would say a lift is absolutely necessary. My vote would be get somone else to do it.

Might not be much more to have them do the walls at the same time.

[Richard Shaefer]

pay someone. seriously.
overhead sheetrock is back-breaking work, and 5/8" sheetrock is a pain just to move around, let alone hang over your head.
It's not worth the grief to save a few hundred dollars.

let some mud jockeys come in and they'll hang it and tape it in a day. you'll spend at least two weekends doing the same.

[Larry Browning]

Another vote for paying someone to do it. They have the proper equipment and skills to just "get'er done". You might be surprised as to how little it costs and how quickly they can do it. Trust me it will save you much time and grief.

[Drew Pavlak]

Keep in mind that if you rent a lift to do this, you will need an extension for the lift. They will only reach between 11' and 11'6". I am in the process of installing the drywall in my barn as well, part is 12' flat and 24' of it is cathedral (14' to the interior peak), so for me the lift is not going to work. Depending on how much you have to do, it might be worth it to hire it out. We checked into it and it was about $0.25 a sqft to hang it, no mud or tape, just get it on the wall. We are also only using 1/2" for the ceiling.

[Steve Milito]

I paid about $1.00 sq/ft to hang, tape, and mud the drywall. This included a good portion of the building that had 16 ft ceilings and required scaffolding. I think it was well worth it.

[Michael W. Clark]

At the very least, sub out the hanging of the sheetrock. Buy the sheetrock from a commercial supplier (not big box), their price will include delivery to your shop floor. The hangers will pick it up from there and go. If you hire out the finishing too, (I did in my basement) your finisher can sub out the hanging or recommend someone.

Unless I did this everyday, I can't imagine handling 4x12x5/8 over my head on a 12 foot ceiling.

[Brian W Smith]

JMO,drywall finishing,along with real plaster work is an example of really high skill work.Not a lot of tooling,but loads of "touch" and finesse.Concrete finishing and masonry work also fall into this area.

All of which fall into another category...........it's not to be "played" with,PERIOD.It's part of the job timeline thats on a get-it-DONE schedule.Not disparaging anyone from learning and more importantly practicing these crafts.It's just that you need to start small.....think adding a small closet or something,a nice small concrete pad at a doorway,a small brick/block planter.Can you imagine a beginner taking on a 1200 sq ft concrete slab?SR isn't quite as physically demanding but your work is going to "show".....hire it out,and get somebody who knows what they're doing.....and move on with the project.best of luck,BW

[Jim Andrew]

I'm not sure if you can get a drywaller to do a job this small without charging an arm and a leg. It is only 6 full sheets and a 2' strip. When you buy your rock, be sure to buy the stuff for ceilings. It is stiffer than the wall board. I'd prefer to have it glued, but you don't want to shift the sheet after you get it up with glue on the joists.

[Randy Gazda]

I'm not sure if you can get a drywaller to do a job this small without charging an arm and a leg. It is only 6 full sheets and a 2' strip. When you buy your rock, be sure to buy the stuff for ceilings. It is stiffer than the wall board. I'd prefer to have it glued, but you don't want to shift the sheet after you get it up with glue on the joists.

I need to put up vapor barrier (so I can insulate the attic after SR), so glue probably isn't going to happen

[Jim Andrew]

Randy, do you live in a particularly humid area? Here in Kansas, we don't need a vapor barrier in the attic, just a well ventilated attic will keep any buildup of moisture from occurring. I have been noticing that the #505 roof vents in my shop have leaked a little, enough to stain my ceiling tiles. Would be nice to have vents that stop snow from getting through.