Yeah, they're not that magical. There will be no religious conversion or visions of the future after you touch one.
Yeah, they're not that magical. There will be no religious conversion or visions of the future after you touch one.
I think simplifying a process can be a huge timesaver. Also most of us would do better on a golf course if we understood to bring fewer clubs. I recommend this. Several of by best rounds have been played with half a set of clubs. When you have less considrations you tend to let your brain work for you rather than against you. I like this idea and I will try it out.
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Rust never sleeps
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77333663@N07/sets
http://www.wkfinetools.com/hUS-mechT...y-OilStone.asp
A pasted bit of literature from 1902 on wiktor kuc's site. Presume that the pike company wrote it.
It suggests that stones were sold without labels and people tried them until they found something they like. The same method should be employed with japanese stones now, but taking the mine stamp off of a japanese stone through use is a no-no.
I wondered why there would be soft arkansas stones of lesser quality in vintage form when the pike stones were so widely distributed, but also found some retailers who sold three stones "soft stones, washita stones, and arkansas stones".
The arkansas stones weren't labeled as hard arkansas, but they certainly would've been translucents or black stones, and the soft stones they sold at a cut rate so that they would be less expensive than the pike mine washita stones.
Last edited by David Weaver; 03-07-2014 at 11:09 AM.
But what exactly is a "soft Arkansas"?
I've tried several new (and don't ever recall seeing a vintage stone labeled as "soft Arkansas") and I've never seen anything I've liked. They have been either sold off, or in the pile labeled "OK to loan to idiot neighbor".
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.
It's a low density stone from somewhere other than the pike mine. The only ones I've tried that I actually are the ones from natural whetstone. I sold the one I had to archie, kind of wish I hadn't, but they're inexpensive enough I could get another one if I felt the need.
Bad ones are frustrating to use because they're always slower than you expect them to be, and they're not very fine. You have to keep on them with a diamond hone to keep them cutting fast.
Once you have a washita that you would agitate with a diamond hone, there's no need for them.
How bout no stone at all. I've not used stones for years. I still have the first Japanese stones I bought in the early 80s and they have very little wear. I also have a 200 grit water stone that has lots of wear but that's all from my kitchen knives. Decades ago I went to an MDF disk that spins at approx 300rpm that's charged with white buffing compound; straight from the grinder to the buffing wheel. Haven't had a reason to use a stone ever since.
Sent from the bathtub on my Samsung Galaxy(C)S5 with waterproof Lifeproof Case(C), and spell check turned off!
You can do that, could be a separate thread.
I tried one of those inexpensive sanders at one point with an abrasive belt and a leather disc with compound. It worked, but I'm too stingy and it went too fast. I did fling an iron with the leather disc, too. 300 rpm would be a good speed.
I still have the inexpensive sander, of course (4x36 belt and 6" disc and another 10" disc sander separate - both of those I usually beat on to work metal - they're both handy for that)
Last edited by David Weaver; 03-07-2014 at 11:45 AM.
Back to the "soft arkansas" comments, David: what do you mean by "agitate with a diamond hone"? I've never tried that (but to be honest, my stones are basically vintage and already broken in). I do have a few modern Nortons laying around, and by agitate, are you suggesting just to "re-face" the surface with a diamond stone and if so, what make/grit/type diamond hone are you referring to?
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.
Yes, dress the surface with a diamond hone. Something in the 200 grit range. finer than that will grade the ark to some extent.
I haven't used silicon carbide to dress an oilstone (for fear that little bits of it will stay on the surface) but that might be a decent idea, too.
Diamond hones don't really like coarse arkansas stones that mucy. I have a 220 grit DMT "bench stone", the ones with the plastic raised base, and it got pretty beat in the middle right away from using it on oilstones.
Maybe an old carborundum/crostolon coarse stone would work, too. Haven't tried it. IT would probably sound and feel like sticking your head out of the car and letting your teeth scrape on a galvanized guard rail as you go down the road.
Haven't bought any toys today, so I just ordered a DMT extra coarse diamond hone. Curious to see what this will do for the "newish" oilstones I have laying around. Of course, I may have to send SWMBO on a shoe shopping spree so I can get the stones into the dishwasher without getting caught (again).
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.
Coarse stones only for that DMT, obviously. It'll scratch up the surface of any nice hard black or translucent stones.
David, it's interesting you mention the UK love for the Washita. Joinery text of the late 19th century and early 20th century is littered with glowing praise for them.
Also on Welsh slate, now that's a way to get a cheap polishing stone http://www.inigojones.co.uk/products/Honing-Stone.php $10.00 > £6.00. I have one and it comes with a slightly textured surface that needs bedding in or dressing, can't complain for £6.00. It is suggested that it polishes to around the 8000 mark and the makers advise water. However it works just as well with my favorite honing juice which is baby oil.
What is your method of "dressing/bedding in"? I've got an inkling to order one.
Postage to the US is $28.00 per stone, no matter how many are ordered. In dollars, the cost is $6.95 for the stone, totaling $34.95 with postage, so this is not a very high priced purchase!
Last edited by Tony Zaffuto; 03-07-2014 at 2:18 PM.
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.