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Thread: Backsaw depth stop

  1. #1
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    Backsaw depth stop

    Couple months ago I made this little fixture to clamp on to my 12" backsaw, think I used it once or twice. But yesterday it proved indispensable cutting a bunch of slots (future dog holes) for my new bench top. I must have seen a picture of something like this somewhere but did a little searching and couldn't find anything. Not sure what it's called.

    Just some scrapes and maybe a dollar at the hardware store. Tapered the ends of the inside, so when screwing it together it closes in the center first.

    sam_1500.jpg sam_1501.jpg sam_1502.jpg

    Do you guys use something like this?
    Last edited by Judson Green; 03-13-2014 at 10:29 AM.

  2. #2
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    For a name are you maybe thinking of a stairsaw? That's what this effectively is.

  3. #3
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    I have seen a fixture like this except made of metal. They were offered for sale somewhere. I also think I've seen thin blade saws with slots in their blades for thumb screws to hold a brass strip. Might have been for cutting fret slots in guitar fingerboards.

  4. #4
    There was a time when you could buy one off the shelf ...

    RB08.jpg

  5. #5
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    Thanks for posting this. I was looking to make something similar. Tapering is a good idea. I did the same thing to some cauls for clamping the center of large pieces.

  6. #6
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    Bishop saw

    Here's another one.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys, I knew I saw something like it before.

    But do you use it?

    I'm curious if this is a crutch or a useful fixture?
    Last edited by Judson Green; 03-13-2014 at 11:11 AM.

  8. #8
    "I'm curious if this is a crutch or a useful fixture?" My answer would be Yes Judson. For one or 2 cuts it is probably a crutch, but in cases where you have to do a large number of them it is very useful. The depth stop allows you to work more efficiently and at greater speed and most importantly end up with every cut exactly the same depth. I would think of it as a production aid.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  9. #9
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    Ok thanks. That makes sense, I wouldn't use it for a onesie twosie.

  10. #10
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    My Bishop #10 gets used often when making repeat cuts.

    Bishop #10.jpg

    This picture is from before it was cleaned and put into service.

    It has two sets of teeth. One side is filed rip and the other is filed crosscut.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Brown View Post
    Here's another one.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    My Bishop #10 gets used often when making repeat cuts.

    Bishop #10.jpg

    This picture is from before it was cleaned and put into service.

    It has two sets of teeth. One side is filed rip and the other is filed crosscut.

    jtk

    That saw, that kind of configuration, with the handle up out of the way, rip & cross cut, seems like it would be uniquely useful.

    I'll have to keep my eyes open for one.
    Last edited by Judson Green; 03-13-2014 at 2:16 PM.

  12. #12
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    I was thinking of this one when I read that you said you had seen it around some where.
    http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...op--Kondo.aspx
    I have not bought one. Yet. Or made one. Yet.

    So I don't use one. Yet.

    Way to go on your dog holes ! I am proud of you.
    I would do that now but I chickened out and resorted to Dado bladeness back in the day.
    Last edited by Winton Applegate; 03-13-2014 at 10:15 PM.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winton Applegate View Post
    Way to go on your dog holes ! I am proud of you.
    I would do that now but I chickened out and resorted to Dado bladeness back in the day.

    Ah shucks, thanks Winton

    It's just that "whitewood" from the local borg so pretty easy going.

  14. #14
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    I ran on to this aide at Jim Tolpin's Hand Tool Haven class at the Port Townsend Woodworkers school. Jim showed one, and we used it to cut a dado (I think that is what we cut). His was made from a cheap, modern back saw. I bought a cheap new back saw, initially for a saw to practice sharpening on. The sharpening went better than I expected, then after reducing the set, that cheapo cut better than I ever expected. The next step was to add the depth stop. I used a piece of plywood that was handy. I've used it enough to make it handy. Cutting the edges for dadoes and grooves, then chiseling out the waste. I've also used it to cut lap joints. Often I've used it to cut a number of kirfs within the dado waste to make the chiseling easier.

    I didn't taper the stop, and thinking about that, I wouldn't as that may bend the saw's plate, and keep it from cutting as straight. Its only a vertical stop, not a brace for the saw.

  15. #15
    This is brilliant. I was thinking of cutting up an old/ugly saw to make a stair saw, but for the very limited use I'd give to it, yours is a much better option!

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