Chain Saw Recommendations

[Matt Day]

Just reread the thread and see you have some 10" brush to go through. Sounds like you're going to need a few different tools for each type/size of brush.

[Peter Kelly]

We have a botanist for erosion control.

You might want to hire a landscape architect instead. A 40º incline is very steep and you'd likely experience some pretty significant erosion without a design in place once you've clear cut the hill.

[Thomas Canfield]

I did not see anyone mention a pole chain saw. It looks like some type of pole or extended cutter will be required to be able to stay clear of the "brush" and get to the stem. You are going to have a lot of regrowth with all the remaining stumps, but the roots should hold the surface somewhat. Looks like a big job.

[Rich Riddle]

You might want to hire a landscape architect instead. A 40º incline is very steep and you'd likely experience some pretty significant erosion without a design in place once you've clear cut the hill.

Thank you for that idea. The botanist believes native grasses will hold the hill; I don't. Unfortunately there was nothing for ground cover for a long long time, just a canopy of honeysuckle. Thus, erosion has been an unseen problem.

[Rich Riddle]

I did not see anyone mention a pole chain saw. It looks like some type of pole or extended cutter will be required to be able to stay clear of the "brush" and get to the stem. You are going to have a lot of regrowth with all the remaining stumps, but the roots should hold the surface somewhat. Looks like a big job.

I own a 13' Husqvarna pole saw and have used it extensively to clear the canopy of what you see already removed. A 20% Roundup solution has been "painted" on the stumps. There really aren't many small stalks on the part removed, just huge tree-like bushes. On the remaining area, there are stalks.

[Mel Fulks]

Honeysuckle holds dirt pretty well. This might be difficult .

[Mark Bolton]

Rich, can I ask what the ultimate objective is? Is it to landscape this area? Just have it gone? Assuming the first given the "botanist" references.

[Peter Kelly]

If you're cutting invasive vines like Japanese Honeysuckle, you'll often find they're just one contiguous interconnected plant. As above, can be very difficult to remove.

[Rich Riddle]

Mark, the ultimate goal is to keep the wife happy. A happy wife means a happy life. Her reason is to establish something on the hill that retains the soil. We have absolutely no ground cover, none. That means even though the top has a canopy that looks great, the soil erodes in the weather here. We are looking for something more than grass to hold the hillside since grass won't hold it with deep roots. Unfortunately, the botanist doesn't seem to realize that. We do.

Peter, those are Amur honeysuckle and some possess substantial "trunks" to say the least. There are some sort of grape vines in there that can be up to three inches in diameter.

Thanks to the folks who recommended a brush cutter. The hunt now went from a chainsaw to a brush cutter. While a Stihl proves cost prohibitive, a Husqvarna seems a acceptable alternative and is only about $50 more than the Echo model. It seems the Husqvarna has far more parts available.

[Jim Andrew]

Look at Bailey's online, they sell both those brands. Have you heard of vetch? it is a vine plant the states use to hold the ground on slopes along the interstate highways. It is very aggressive at taking over grassland, but if you are not near grassland, no worry. Call your extension agent about what to use as stump killer, it is a real pain to have tree roots sending new chutes up after you think they are done. Here in Kansas, Remedy and diesel combined is about the only thing that works on most trees. Cedar trees die if you just cut below any green. And also check the rate to be applied and the dates. The date is very important in killing trees, as if you do not apply at the right time, the chemical will not do it's job. I have to work at clearing trees every year. The grasslands would be brush lands if not for farmers.

[Rich Riddle]

Jim,

I lived in Kansas for about thirty years in various places including Southwest Kansas and the Flint Hills. Thanks for the extension office comment and the information concerning vetch. Will call the extension office later. The botanist here seems more concerned with returning native plants than stabilizing the hillside; that seems strange since houses sit atop the hillside.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have a Husqvarna 24" 460 (+/-) that I bought last year, and other than having it serviced once a year I have not had any other problems with it. It has cut down enormous trees (3 1/2' diameter the largest) without any trouble. I am not sure that a chain saw is the best tool for your job, and you might want to get a weedeater with a brush blade, or one of those lawnmower brush cutter instead for you small stuff. Or, rent a skid steer or bobcat.

[Tom M King]

How many cubic inches is the Husqvarna cutter you're looking at?

[Rich Riddle]

How many cubic inches is the Husqvarna cutter you're looking at?

It's the 345 model, currently the largest they make. Half the property has very large trees of Honeysuckle and the other half has small bushes of them. I am looking at the brush cutter for the smaller bushes that are at most 3" in diameter.

[Tom M King]

How is the density of those 3" stalks compared to some wood. I'll go look at the specs on that cutter, and get back to you. When we are clearing with the big 450, we normally skip stuff that's over a couple of inches, and use a small saw (MS180) on stuff up to about four or five inches.