I don't, I could take some if need be, but think of it like this...Originally Posted by Alan Gan
The blocks really just provide the function of a diagonal clamp across the longer diagonal. That is, when you have one diagonal longer than the other, you can put a long bar clamp across that diagonal and squeeze it until the two diagonals are equal.
But you can't easily do that AND attach a back, as the clamp is in the way. So the blocks are clamped to your bench, and squeeze that too-long diagonal from the bottom. Now you have free access to attach a back.
Does that make sense?
On the question regarding face frames, they can vary quite a bit in width. Most people use whatever size face frame is required to match existing cabinets. Take into account your door design (overlay doors will make the face frame appear thinner).
And they are best installed BEFORE you install the cabinets. So get the cabinet square FIRST, attach the back (glue+staples or brads or whatever). Once that glue sets on your now square cabinet, attach your face frame, and then install the cabinet. If your cabinet is being install in a corner, making that edge of the frame a little wider and scribing it to match the wall will provide a nicer result.
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