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Thread: Need help with my WeCheer power carver.

  1. #1
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    Need help with my WeCheer power carver.

    Hello to all, need some assistance please. I purchased a used Wecheer power carver model 320 off CL and it did not come with instructions and I have never used one of these other than a Black and Decker that is a much smaller unit. After researching through the internet I have come to the conclusion this thing only came with one sheet of instructions that is not on the Wecheer web site. So, my issues are;

    1. How do you remove the reciprocating hand piece from the flex cable?
    2. How does the flex cable connect to the motor? I see a collet but no collet ring to tighten down to hold the flex shaft in place unless you just insert the shaft into the collet then slide the large cap on the flex shaft down and onto the motor but that doesn't really insure the shaft is secure in the spinning collet.
    3. What do you lube the flex shaft and handpieces with?
    4. So, once we figure out questions 1-3 what would be some good burs to purchase for carving on my wood turnings (I have read that Typhoon burs are good bits just don't know what I should buy first). I would like to carve on turned bowls around the lip and creating a band of designs around the top of the bowl, and small details on some spindle size turnings more like relief carving on a spindle (making a wood pen and want to carve on it).

    I have attached a few photos of the unit. Looks complete and motor runs fine just need to figure a few things out.

    IMG_3753.jpgIMG_3754.jpgIMG_3755.jpgIMG_3756.jpg
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  2. #2
    I don't own this piece but from a quick search I found that the hand pieces are interchangeable with the foredom hand pieces.
    Some posts indicate a firm pull will separate the unit from the shaft as a simple collar with a ball bearing is what keeps it in place. To remove my Foredom piece I just rotate the locking collar and the unit just slips off.
    Yours may be found under the reinforcing spring .
    Even grasping the hand piece and the shaft, a firm pull will separate them. It's only a keyed shaft that goes in the hand piece.
    since they interchange with the same shaft I'm guessing that's how they are held together as the posts and websites indicate.
    As to lubing the flex shaft I use wheel bearing grease. Foredom also has some available.
    Others as I have read use this as well for the hand piece but it appears that with some heat build up some tends to run out if the unit over time.
    But lubrication seems critical as some report they have a tendency to lock up. Not sure if it's a lube problem or what as they didn't say. Yet others haven't had any problems.
    And it appears from the photo you're missing a locking collet that would slip over the threaded shaft. From what I see there it would function by pressing the button to lock the shaft while tightening the collet to secure the bit. Just like on most any other hand piece like this or some routers. It's all the same principle.
    Last edited by Mark Yundt; 04-02-2014 at 10:36 AM.
    The Woodworking Studio

  3. #3
    Yeah, I just pulled out my backups of casings and flex shafts and they look just like what you have pictured.
    i don't have the carving hand piece just the one for sanding.
    Last edited by Mark Yundt; 04-02-2014 at 12:41 PM.
    The Woodworking Studio

  4. #4
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    Wecheer 320 Answers

    1. The hand pieces just pull off from the end of the flex shaft. They are held in by a couple of spring loaded balls.

    2. You take the everything off the end of the tool and then attach a small chuck like piece and tighten it on. The end of the flex shaft then fits over the small making certain that the inside flex shaft goes in the end of the motor properly.

    Wecheer 1.JPG

    3. DO NOT LUBE THE SHAFT per the Wecheer instructions.

    4. I have a couple of the Typhoon burrs and they work great for rough cutting. Mine are the 1/8" shaft. I find that I need to use something like the HSS burrs to smooth the area. The Typhoon burrs cut the wood well and will also do a real number on your fingers so be a little cautious. I was cut once not to bad but it really hurt.

    Let me know if you need more pictures. Good Luck

  5. #5
    How does wecheer suggest lubing the shaft? And if not the way they suggest then how should it be done is the next question.
    i know my Foredom runs much better if lubed properly.

    nice trick for cleaning bits when they get clogged is soak 'em in some oven cleaner. A bit of a scrub with a small brass/stainless brush gets them going again.

    As to what you should buy is governed by the carving you want to do. The Kutzall type bits do, as said remove wood but leave a rough surface that has to be smoothed. To get finer detail or at least make it look somewhat respectable finer diamond bits may work. To do fine carving on a pen? I can't say this would be my choice to do that.

    And I've never considered getting the carving hand piece for my Foredom.
    Last edited by Mark Yundt; 04-02-2014 at 12:55 PM.
    The Woodworking Studio

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the help. I tried again to remove the flex shaft from the hand piece and was able to remove it. Put some muscle into it this time. Was on pretty tight. Apparently the reciprocating hand piece is trashed. The cable does not will not move the gouge end in and out. Looks like the previous owner used it a lot as the threads were all messed up. I do have the locking collet. It will not screw on to the motor. So I took a closer look and found the first two or three threads on the motor shaft are stripped and I just noticed that the end of the flex cable is bent. Don't know what this guy was carving but he sure did a number on it. No wonder I got this thing for $20! I guess I will try to figure out how to fix the threads then see about purchasing a new flex cable. Not to worried about the reciprocating hand piece I guess. Get one of ebay maybe.....
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  7. #7
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    Go to Treeline and look at their reciprocating carvers, I bet the WeCheer unit for the Dremel will fit that unit.

  8. #8
    As far as the cable not activating the chisel goes I don't think it will until some pressure is applied. The video showed it running but you could touch the tip. It wouldn't cut until it was presses fairly firmly against some wood.

    from the looks of things there are any number of hand pieces you can use.
    The Woodworking Studio

  9. #9
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    Well first I need to buy a tap and die set to fix the stripped threads on the spindle. Guess I can pickup a set at Harbor Freight.
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  10. #10
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    I been down this road before the thread is proprietary, an odd size, I think it was 40 threads to the inch and an odd size in diameter. Look on Home Model Engine Machinist for more info. If the threads on the spindle are the problem I used a very fine micro file and went one time over the messed up threads very lightly. Checked to see if the nut worked, and then did it again, on about the 3rd or 4th time the nut worked. Make sure you clean the threads every time the slightest grit will stop the nut, and file very LIGHTLY.

  11. #11
    I'm a tool-a- holic as most of us probably are. And I don't mean this to sound glib but what is the benefit of having one of these rotary chisels ?
    I've seen in store demos, tried one at that time, watched videos on line but it still have that unanswered question.

    It it can't be speed. Being a full time carver I'd be interested if it were as time is money. If it were I'd have one in my shop tomorrow or would have had one years ago .They are slow and if you need to switch between blades it just makes it even slower.It isn't accuracy, flexibility or convenience as they are rather clumsy and restrict your range of carving .It's very limited in what it can do. I don't know what types of carving they would be useful for or what type of carvings are done with one. And I've never seen one in use in the several carving shops I visit.

    I imagine if you had a physical disability or didn't have the strength to hold a chisel it may be helpful .

    And considering the initial cost , unless you find one used a selection of chisels could be had that would get you well on your way to being able to carve whatever you like.

    What am I missing here?
    Last edited by Mark Yundt; 04-07-2014 at 12:44 PM.
    The Woodworking Studio

  12. #12
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    The benefit to some of us to have one is that is a bit easier for us with very little experience. Since Mark is a full time wood carver, I would guess that his skills and tools are a lot different that some of us who are just trying it out. For amateurs, speed is not an issue but if you are doing it for a living it would be different. There is a wide range of people on the forum and most are not professional carvers.

    In addition, some of us are older with arthritis and it is easier using a power carver than just a blade and handle. I am using one to just try it out to enhance some other projects.

  13. #13
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    I am disabled, without some of my power tools my wood working would have ceased 14 years ago. I have no reason for speed, it doesn't matter if I take a week to do a 30 minute job, it is all for my enjoyment, that is what matters.

  14. #14
    Oh I understand and that was my conclusion. No slight intended and it's a great resolution if someone is prevented from using a conventional chisel.

    my tools by the way are the same that are available to anyone. Nothing special.
    Experience is a factor but it can also depend on the approach taken. The results are dramatic from what I have seen first hand. And I'm speaking personally here with my initial exposure to carving.

    One quick example was in a carving shop. A retired accountant came in and was interested in carving. We , at the time, were working on Egg and Dart molding.
    Now he had some carving experience in the form of whittling. OK. But he wanted to get into this type of carving.
    His greatest "obstacle" wasn't the fact that his left hand was clenched in a fist and curled on itself and had limited extension of his entire arm. And with his right hand he only had use of his thumb, index and middle finger as the ring and little finger curled on itself.
    No, his greatest obstacle to all of us was his mindset. That, and his determination to use a carving knife to do this work.
    Once that habit was broken he went on to carve moulding with the rest of us. And at that time, nearly 25 yrs. ago.. took in $ 250 - $300 a day carving it.

    Visiting the shop 2 weeks ago i saw a great grandmother in her late 70's carving oak.
    And at the next bench was a gentleman in his 80s doing the very same thing.
    No experience,,, they thought it looked like fun and wanted something to do and make a few bucks.
    And this is part of a 3-4 yr. ,, 7 figure carving job for a major Cathedral in NY.
    It's all good.
    Last edited by Mark Yundt; 04-08-2014 at 12:45 AM.
    The Woodworking Studio

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