Tapered vs Krenov/Hock vs Japansese Style irons

[Winton Applegate]

"Well tuned" is a bit vague. How do you tune it, how do you use it, particularly in respect to tearout problems?

?
?
. . . .
(sound of crickets)
. . .
I guess it is a secret.
We will just have to take his class . . . you know . . . shell out the big bucks.

[David Weaver]

?

I guess it is a secret.

Looks like it. Any styx fans?:

(Secret, secret, I've got a secret)
With parts made in Japan
(Secret, secret, I've got a secret)
I am the modren man
I've got a secret, I've been hiding under my skin
My heart is human, my blood is boiling
My brain I.B.M., so if you see me
Acting strangely, don't be surprised

[Stanley Covington]

Stan,
What do you think of turning that blade over and going from a family sedan to a mach II fighter ?
Bevel up laminated any one ? Ohhhh yah.

I think PART of what makes the Japanese planes great is the custom support of the body supporting the bevel down blade nearer the edge than the iron bevel down planes. A bevel up iron body plane is still heavy but has superior edge support to both wood or iron bevel down.

You get to show off breaking the sound barrier AND there are no unwieldy parachutes to repack. Assuming we don't have to bail out.

Winton:

The blade could easily be turned upside down and used bevel down in a metal bodied plane. Another project I'm working on in parallel is a tapered, hand-forged laminated blade. Low angle planes don't work well in wood, although it can be done, I am told. kick in the afterburner!

[Winton Applegate]

Low angle planes don't work well in wood

Yah, I was thinking one of your laminated blades for my iron body BU. I understand making a BU body in wood isn't so smart.

[Stanley Covington]

Yah, I was thinking one of your laminated blades for my iron body BU. I understand making a BU body in wood isn't so smart.

I'll let you know when i have something to sell. Doing second round of prototypes now. Thinking of dumping Blue Paper Steel and going with White Paper or Swedish Steel. The Blacksmith likes Blue because it is so much easier to use, but plain high-carbon steel makes a superior blade if done right, and he knows how to make it jump onto the table and take off its blouse when the music starts.

[Winton Applegate]

I'll let you know when i have something to sell.

Yes ! Please do.

dropping Blue Paper Steel and going with White Paper or Swedish Steel. . . . plain high-carbon steel makes a superior blade if done right

Yes that sounds good to me as well. I have plenty of the A2 blades and would like some more traditional White steel blades for "normal" sane person's wood working.

As the youngin's say "I'm down wid that".

[Roderick Gentry]

I don't think you would ever use a side float to cut the abutments. You use an edge float or a saw.
On any double iron plane, the line of the abutment, if continued down, will always hit the wear. On a single iron plane, that line will more or less coincide with the front of the mouth, so when you add in another 1/8" or so for the cap iron, the abutment has to be forward of the mouth. So, you're always making a stopped cut on a double iron, whereas on a single iron you can just run the saw right through the mouth.
My favorite tool for cutting the abutments is an old drywall saw, with all the set removed and the teeth reshaped for cutting wood. It cost me zero yankee dollars.

I also use japanese keyhole saws, and HSS hack saw (they may need grinding).