There is a lot of conflicting pages on saw sharpening. My approach is the same as with many other endeavors, KISS, Keep It Simple Starting. (the original KISS doesn't use Starting.)
This is one of the best starting places for learning about saws and saw filing:
http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/f...y/library.html
So keeping it simple, if at all possible, pick up an old saw, the cheaper the better. Eventually you can pick up a few old saws that will fill some of the spots in your list.
Keep it simple. Don't try to over think it. Just do straight across (without gullets) rip teeth. The goal is to make each tooth the same. The hard part of sharpening is to keep your place and to keep your file stroke the same on each tooth.
Jointing a saw isn't to take the teeth all the way down. Most likely any used saw has too much set unless it was owned by someone who knew how to take care of it. Jointing is just to make sure all the teeth are at the same level. When all the teeth have a shiny spot on top, the jointing is done. This doesn't account for broken teeth or a really poorly filed saw. Sometimes one has to go a bit further. A broken tooth or a low tooth or two can be ignored. I just received a replacement blade from Ron Bontz for an old saw that had a tooth line like the front row of a Willie Nelson concert. The darn thing could still cut dovetails, but the new blade is much better.
Back to your need and first saw to sharpen. Changing tooth count is a lot of work. Unless you want to do a lot of work use what the saw with the tooth count it had when you found it. An exception might be if you wanted to convert a 4ppi saw to an 8ppi saw. Then a lot of jointing and filing. The problem would be trying to set the teeth. Changing the set of a tooth from one side to the other has the nasty habit of snapping teeth.
File the saw rip, this is the easiest to start. My advice would be to start with 9º rake. That is fairly relaxed and makes for an easier starting saw. Give it some test cuts make any adjustments by stoning the teeth as is advised by the library at Vintage Saws.
Once you have used this saw for a while, you will either like it or not. If it is too aggressive, then a lower tooth count can slow it down. If you want it more aggressive, change the rake to 5º to speed it up a little.
Experimenting with an inexpensive saw like this may waste a day or two in the shop, but it will teach you a lot about what you want in your saws.
Bob Smalser posted a tutorial on saw sharpening and other saw care. It can be found in here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...al-wisdom-FAQs
As for the saws themselves it is difficult to know what you already have in house. I am guessing since you are about the same age as me and from what you said you may not have any power saws. My power saw is an old inexpensive bandsaw. Sometimes ripping by hand is faster and leaves a better edge.
My first back saws were a couple of inexpensive hardware store saws. They worked well for doing dovetails and other joinery. They worked but were not as good as what has since been acquired. The old saws cost a couple bucks at yard sales.
I like my joinery saws in the 12-15ppi range. Everyone's milage will vary on this. Find what you like for speed and comfort.
My main rip saw is 6ppi. My cross cut saws come in a few different tooth counts. My most used one is about 10ppi, if my memory is working. Then another is in the 7ppi area. I have one at about 5ppi but it is mostly used for rough cutting like firewood and such.
From your original post:
1. Rip, for big jobs I like my 6ppi Disston D-8. At the bench I like a small saw with 13ppi, 5º rake and 5º fleam.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...Back-Saw-Build
2. For cross cutting another D-8 is filed 10ppi, 15º rake and 20º fleam.
3. Don't have a panel saw.
4. Dovetail saws are a bit all over the place in my shop. The one in the Back Saw Build thread is used a lot. Just recently received a saw kit and plate from Ron Bontz. The plate has been installed in an old back saw and works fine at 14ppi, 5º rake and no fleam. The kit is still waiting for me to have time to make a handle. My experience with this has me thinking of making the kit saw with no set and see how that goes for a while. It is cut 15ppi and I haven't decided on the rake as of yet. Most likely in the area of 5º. That seems to work well for me.
5. As for the frame saw, I tend to avoid the latest raves. I have a few old broken band saw blades around the shop and have thought of making saws with them, just haven't gotten a round tuit.
Just my
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And remember,
YMMV!!!.jpg
jtk