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Thread: Face plate or tenon ???

  1. #1
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    Face plate or tenon ???

    What is the proper headstock attachment for turning a log (about 24" long) in a safe way?

    Thank you, Dan
    Last edited by Dan Kralemann; 04-21-2014 at 5:11 PM.

  2. #2
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    With the big stuff I use a FP to make the log round, shape the outside and bottom including the recess for the chuck jaws, then I turn it around for hollowing.
    Do or do not, there is no try.

  3. #3
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    A log and a round are two different things. A round is a blank that has been cut from a log and turned round. Typically, the log is split in half, and then into segments. The face of a segment would be the flat created when the log is cut lengthwise. This segment could then be cut round by means of a circle cutting jig on a bandsaw. The resulting disk would be what is considered a "round." The type of headstock attachment would depend upon what you're doing. If you're turning a bowl you would probably attach a faceplate to the flat by means of screws, then turn the rough outer shape of the bowl and also turn a tenon on the opposing end of the blank. You would then remove the face plate and place the tenon into the jaws of a chuck, thus reversing the orientation of the bowl and permitting you to gouge out the inside of the bowl.

  4. #4
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    Rob,

    Thank you for clarifying the difference between a log and a round. For this reason I made an edit on my thread.

    Dan

  5. #5
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    In my case, I am talking about logs as in whole round sections of trees.
    Do or do not, there is no try.

  6. #6
    Well, for log sections, turned end grain/along the length of the piece, I mount in between centers (spur drive and tailstock), turn a tenon on one end, then stick that in a chuck. Face plates do not always do well in end grain because it is difficult to get the end cut perfectly square to the log section, and screws don't hold as well in end grain as they do in side grain.

    robo hippy

  7. #7
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    Thats true Reed, but I am starting to turn recesses more and more. On my lathe, that is much easier if I don't have the tailstock in the way so I use the faceplate.....however, I do leave the tailstock in place until that time.
    Do or do not, there is no try.

  8. #8
    I would never use a recess into end grain. It will split! But you probably already know that....

    robo hippy

  9. #9
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    Roger what Reed said. I turn between center, flatten the base and use thick CA & glue block held by a single screw or small faceplate screwed to the GB. Good for 24" long vases.
    Last edited by robert baccus; 04-21-2014 at 11:02 PM.

  10. #10
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    Not really, I am just now playing with recesses. I didn't think it mattered if it was side grain or end grain.

    Quote Originally Posted by Reed Gray View Post
    I would never use a recess into end grain. It will split! But you probably already know that....

    robo hippy
    Do or do not, there is no try.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for your feedback. Dan

  12. #12
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    End grain is bad news for most things. Forget screws into green wood endgrain unless you put 15 or 20 in it. An expanding dovetail would be a death wish in my book. I'm talking about wood over 5 # in weight. Thick CA on a stout glueblock will hold over 100# and 24" in length reliably, even on very green wood..

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