milling very small rasied panels

[jack forsberg]

milling small pieces can be unsafe on the spindle moulder. here is what i do.


anyone care to show/tell how they do it?

[Mark Bolton]

We just recently ran a bunch of panels that look like they may be a hair wider but were longer than your square panels. Im going to guess the unraised portion of the panel was 3/4" wide if that. Being long we were able to run the long sides conventionally with the feeder and I run the very short end grain on a sled with destacos.

Its kinda common as I do a lot of R/P drawer fronts so the panels get pretty short but they are always longer than they are tall and varied in length so the captured jig you made woudnt work but its a great idea.

I would love to have a way to feeder run the end grain on these super short, but long, panels but Ive yet to put much thought into it. Running the two operations sucks but it is what it is.

Nice work as always..

[Mel Fulks]

I nail through a piece of mdf to hold them butted together. End grain is ,of course ,..run first. Then I turn them all 90 degrees an run them again. Usually it's modilion block caps .

[Mark Bolton]

Here are some narrow ones,



Corner further along,


R/P drawer fronts. Same job, upper drawers are are a bit wider but still a pain to run.



They get very challenging with back cuts when they are this narrow. There is very little on the back to sit on the table.

[J.R. Rutter]

I do similar to your method, Jack, but just assemble it with superglue with matching thickness end pieces and a top piece of 1/4" ply to hold the end caps and act as a pressure bar so that the feed wheels press down nice and hard.

[Pat Barry]

I do similar to your method, Jack, but just assemble it with superglue with matching thickness end pieces and a top piece of 1/4" ply to hold the end caps and act as a pressure bar so that the feed wheels press down nice and hard.

What? This doesn't sound similar at all. Do you have any pictures of this method?

[jack forsberg]

i would like to point out i am using continuous support and not a bearing/rub on the spindle as the fence.



Mark long sticks to me are like stiles so there is room from hold downs out side the feeder.

[Mark Bolton]

We run continuous fence as well, no rub collar. Your R/P profile looks like it may be slightly smaller than ours based on your caliper pics but I'm sure those narrow ones on the mantle are a bit over half inch. I'll have to look back in the software can't remember the panel width. In that kitchen there are a few banks of about 11x11 fronts that are short and short.

[Joe Calhoon]

We have done these a number of ways over the years. I think the best - safest method is the sliding table shaper. We even did the curve part of the panel by making one pass straight then coming back in with lighter pressure on the clamp and pressing against the bearing. Normally we bridge the opening but used a bearing here because of the curve.

The other pictures show a one off job we did with 70 or so small 7" x 7" panels using a corrugated head tilted to reduce projection. We built a sled with a lid to run 2 up with the feeder. It was tedious but safe.

small raised panels.jpgsled for panels.jpgRaised panel with Corrigated.jpg

[jack forsberg]

thanks for chiming in Joe. We probably should not be milling them that small to begin with

the sliding table does look like like a little less support on the under side but i am sure the Martin makes up for it

thanks for the input

We have done these a number of ways over the years. I think the best - safest method is the sliding table shaper. We even did the curve part of the panel by making one pass straight then coming back in with lighter pressure on the clamp and pressing against the bearing. Normally we bridge the opening but used a bearing here because of the curve.

The other pictures show a one off job we did with 70 or so small 7" x 7" panels using a corrugated head tilted to reduce projection. We built a sled with a lid to run 2 up with the feeder. It was tedious but safe.

small raised panels.jpgsled for panels.jpgRaised panel with Corrigated.jpg

[Joe Calhoon]

thanks for chiming in Joe. We probably should not be milling them that small to begin with

the sliding table does look like like a little less support on the under side but i am sure the Martin makes up for it

thanks for the input

Jack, the sliding table in the picture is our old Felder. I have never liked the in table sliders on a shaper. They can be made to work better by using a heavy iron or steel tenon plate. That is what the piece is clamped to in the picture. We do have a side mount table on the Martin now. It is absolutely rigid and can be adjusted right up to the cutter. I have not tried it for panels yet but sure it will work fine.
Joe

[John T Barker]

I hate to sound like a jerk but when a "raised panel" is as small as what is shown above it looks bad, IMO. A raised panel should look like a raised panel, not a pencil. I would suggest changing the design so that all the panels look panel like or omit them from the design altogether. Another option would be a different sized bevel if but I would leave it out over this. Sorry if this is offensive to anyone.

[David Kumm]

Jack, great video. Joe, that plate looks familiar. Glad you found a use for it. Dave

[Joe Calhoon]

I hate to sound like a jerk but when a "raised panel" is as small as what is shown above it looks bad, IMO. A raised panel should look like a raised panel, not a pencil. I would suggest changing the design so that all the panels look panel like or omit them from the design altogether. Another option would be a different sized bevel if but I would leave it out over this. Sorry if this is offensive to anyone.

John, that is true. Sometimes we opt to put a flat panel in place of the RP. But other times the raise is called for. Depends on the design. We have done Southwest style doors that have multi panels similar to what Jack shows and I think they look good for this application.
Joe

Bar 2.jpgbar 5.jpg

[jack forsberg]

i did consider not having raised or using glass/copper/stone/even a different wood or shape to the panel field but in the end it was becoming to busy and its all from one log the work. the panel work on the other side of the door(3" thick) is just a single plan 1/4 swan white OAK panel but that is going to be stained red on that side and i just want to see the grain.

The idea for the small square is a candle flame in abstract and the repetitive shape it the sash above. Not for everyone i am sure with a critical eye on design. The biggest problem was how to use the size of the wood i had for the panels if i wanted to keep it all from the same log and balanced. so the single square became the design i decided on .

I hate to sound like a jerk but when a "raised panel" is as small as what is shown above it looks bad, IMO. A raised panel should look like a raised panel, not a pencil. I would suggest changing the design so that all the panels look panel like or omit them from the design altogether. Another option would be a different sized bevel if but I would leave it out over this. Sorry if this is offensive to anyone.