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Thread: advice on router table project

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    175

    advice on router table project

    I am about to start building my router table. I guess I'm lazy, but I'm looking for an alternative to plastic laminate over plywood. Any ideas? Also, sure would be nice to have my router table completed so I could use it to build my router table

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Peachtree City, GA
    Posts
    1,582
    Mike,
    I took the lazy route and purchased a rrouter table extension from Bench Dog. It's pretty dang complete, with a sweet fence and dust extraction port. It's also nice and beefy. They also make units designed to go on stand alone router tables.

    My other choice was going to be the Lee Valley system. They've got a real versital fence set up, and building a table for their top should be a breeze.

    Have fun!
    Maurice

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    Mike,

    How about plastic-covered MDF??

    Seriously though, you could laminate a few sheets of 3/4" MDF and then contact-cement formica all around it but that darn formica isn't too cheap, neither.

    Check out www.woodpeck.com for some ideas...they often have scratch 'n dent table tops for sale at good prices. However, they also have some darn nice router table systems.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, TX (San Antonio/Austin)
    Posts
    1,203
    You won't be sorry if you get a phenolic top.

    KC

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Winnsboro, SC
    Posts
    81
    Mike, I have about 20 feet of kitchen counter top in the garage if that would help.
    Bob

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    366

    advice on router table project

    Mike, for my first router table I went with 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF glued together with a white laminate top. I am pleased with the results and now, after a few years of use, realize the importance of a good slippery surface. Whatever material you choose, make the top with as little friction as possible. Also take care to get the table insert precisely level with the table top so your work will not hang up infeed or outfeed...(Learned that one the hard way) Applying the laminate was easy and you get a chance to use your router by trimming the edges. The double MDF yields a solid heavy table top which also helps performance. Good luck.

  7. My router table top is made from baltic birch, finished with a 3# cut of shellac and then waxed with Johnson's Paste Wax (which I also use on all the cast iron surfaces in my shop).

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    857
    Why not just plain MDF?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    2,036
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Jones III
    Why not just plain MDF?
    That's what I did, two layers of 3/4 MDF with several coats of poly and finally wax.
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Cashiers NC
    Posts
    603

    Router table top

    I use the Lee valley/ Veritas steel top. I was a little concerned at first because it is smaller (16"x24") than what most people recommend but it works out good. I built my table the same height as my TS and long stock can slide over it. I have a foot pedal setup the Veritas Bit Jack it very nice for morticeing.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Charlie Jones

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