Gluing Acrylic

[Clark Pace]

It's really hard to fine goo information on getting no or little bubbles. It's also a lot of hard practice. I got a job working at an acrylic fab shop and there are a lot of tips, and tricks to get a consistent and reliable no/very little bubbles.

also I will say that very good fab persons can get very little bubbles, even on 45 degree cuts. And good quality trophies should not have bubbles. And it's very possible to do.

I have been gluing acrylic for about 5+ years, and even so I have learnt several things from the guys at the fab shop who have been doing it for 25+ years. There are tips, and I guess tricks, but practice and prep is a big thing. But it does seem like it's kind of hidden info on those tips.

If you are in a high humidity area forget about doing anything bubble free. I keep my shop at a fairly constant temperature and humidity with air conditioning and a dehumidifier.

[Norman Roberts]

Walt

Have you figured out your acrylic gluing ?
I have have owned a high end acrylic fabrication company for 35 years. We build test chambers that have to be air & water tight with bubble free seams.
If you are trying to glue parts that have been laser cut, you will never get a bubble free joint.

If you send me a PM with photos or drawings of what you are trying to glue I may be able to help

[Frank Corker]

The demo shown on the YouTube for gluing the award to the base is scary. I would never lift the object. Movement that she had going there would have resulted in marking and wiping the cloth over having just applied it is a recipe for disaster. Tap Plastics on YouTube will give you a much more sensible way to do it. Or this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFpMeBQEmrI

[Keith Colson]

I get bubble free cement joints on acrylic, not every time but mostly. Like Frank said you don't lift it. You let the cement (weldon 4 is what I use) "wick" into place. When using a syringe don't push the plunger as it will make a mess. Just squeeze the sides of a full syringe and it works great. For the cement to wick well you need as smooth of a surface as possible. e.g. the demo above was not done with a cut edge, that's why it was perfect. If your cut edge does not look like glass you won't get glassy results.

Cheers
Keith

[Mike Null]

Most of the acrylic awards I glue have a sanded edge on the bottom of the upright piece. The base is glossy. I clean with dna then use the syringe. I do not believe that both surfaces being glossy is necessary just so they aren't rough.

I have used the cement successfully on lasered surfaces but they were opaque so being bubble free was not an issue.

[Clark Pace]

The biggest tip is the flatter the better. Get a jointer if possible, and or setup a cheap router with a flat cut. You can kind of setup a jointer style cut. Look on youtube under router as jointer or edge jointer.