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Thread: Gluing Acrylic

  1. #1

    Gluing Acrylic

    So I've glue acrylic together before, but it's been flat surface to flat surface with the glue that is like water, but I've got a case I need to build and it's going to have to support some weight. What I want to do is make the structure with slots and tabs for extra support and since there is always a little play I'm thinking the really liquid glue isn't the best choice for this. Looking around I've found that it actually comes in several different viscosities and I was wondering if anyone has any experience with them and could guide me in what might be the best choice for this situation.

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
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    Walt,

    What is the glue manufacturer and the viscosities you are thinking of please?

    Dave
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  3. #3
    It was some stuff that I got from Tap plastics, and it was the consistency of water, but I have seen different viscosities just not sure what to go with.
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  4. #4
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    Here is a good guide. I use nothing but #3 you might need #40

    http://www.eplastics.com/Adhesives?g...FRWRfgodeFUAdg
    Mark
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  5. #5
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    We buy some of our plastic from a local distributor who also does custom fabricated furniture, they do art gallery pieces, they use the Weld-on #40, they said the larger the area you are trying to glue the more difficult it is to not get bubbles, it is pretty much a trade secret how to get a perfect bubble free glue bond on a large area and at least takes some time and practice. For smaller areas the #16 works good also, basically, the longer the glue has to dry, the better the bond will be.
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  6. #6
    Youtube is your friend..

    I have watched some really good videos on how to use the TAP acrylic cement to get bubble free bond that is stronger than the acrylic itself.. Its my understanding that all the professionals use that stuff..

    The secret is the proper applicator.. They use squeeze bottles with long needles.. The key is both squeezing and sucking to ensure the cement only gets in the joints..

    This will get you started..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps

  7. #7
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    hi
    I make my own just dissolve some acrylic little pieces with aceton with steering and for thicker viscosities I add more acryl pieces.
    its cheap but its the best .
    greetings
    waltfl

  8. #8
    Thanks guys!
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  9. #9
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    I cut a lot of acrylic for use in salt water aquariums. I have seen how they glue them together and it is not like in the Tap videos. They use thin pieces of wire (like from a twist tie) to give just a little gap between the pieces. Then they run a line of the water thin solvent glue, it will fill the empty space. Let it set for almost a minute, then pull out the wires. The pieces are held lightly in clamps so that it can slide down once the wires are removed, then the clamps are snugged up and the whole things sits for a while until the glue has set up. I haven't had the need to try this myself but if I did, that is how I would do it.
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  10. #10
    I have had pretty good luck with the very thin solvent cement (#3). Be sure the edges are clean, preferably slightly rough, and do not starve the joint. Using too little solvent is, in my experience, the number one cause of gaps in the joint.

    My work has been confined to award type projects; no large work that could stress the joints.
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  11. #11
    We used the solvent cement to make this Fish tank, It held up fine with no leaks
    tank.jpg

  12. #12
    So if you mess up and have bubbles and need to disassemble a glued acrylic award, how to you do that.. Reapply solvent to separate and reposition? Do you need to refinish the surfaces to insure a better bond... Kinda stuck here, thanks for any help.
    Bruce Clumpner
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Clumpner View Post
    So if you mess up and have bubbles and need to disassemble a glued acrylic award, how to you do that.. Reapply solvent to separate and reposition? Do you need to refinish the surfaces to insure a better bond... Kinda stuck here, thanks for any help.
    I don't believe disassembling is an option, you'll have to start over with new parts/pieces.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Clumpner View Post
    So if you mess up and have bubbles and need to disassemble a glued acrylic award, how to you do that.. Reapply solvent to separate and reposition? Do you need to refinish the surfaces to insure a better bond... Kinda stuck here, thanks for any help.
    You may not want to hear this, but it's pretty typical to see a bit of bubbles with glued acrylic awards. A lot of people don't do a great job, so you have the option of leaving it. Not exactly ideal, but it's possible. Just as an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbJ_fmBO60I That joint is not perfect but it's considered fine by industry standards.

    If you really want to do it again, there is a chance you'll be able to break apart the award. I've done it by hand if the bond is really bad or most of the time I end up using some sort of force like a rubber mallet. Sometimes you have to get creative. I'm not saying it's always successful, but if the parts are considered garbage anyway, what do you have to lose? As for cleaning up, I'd clean the actual award with very high grit sandpaper. I'd clean the base with cleaner/solvent.

    Next time you do the glue up, use more glue. It will evaporate if it seeps out. You're starving the joint if you get a lot of bubbles. Also don't be afraid to wiggle the award around a little. Sometimes it will push out the air bubbles.
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  15. #15
    If you are in a high humidity area forget about doing anything bubble free. I keep my shop at a fairly constant temperature and humidity with air conditioning and a dehumidifier.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
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