setting Japanese plane

[Noah Wagener]

Yeah. I think it is the sides that are holding it up. It is bulging and there are some little cracks on both corners of the bed side of the mouth. Thanks. i would not have thought it would have been too tight in that aspect.

I'll take yous guyses words about not paring the abutments though i do not understand why. I think the chipbreaker is going to be loose when i ever get to this and i would think that paring the bed would exacerbate this and paring the contact portion of the abutments would help.I guess you just bend those dogears on the breaker to remedy this? Plus the abutments are only contacting the blade near the top. To fix this via paring the bed i'd have to lower the bed angle and it is already at 36 degrees. Is this common with the back of the blade always being worked near the edge? Should the whole back be honed?

This blade is concave on the bevel side, the larger portion that contacts the bed. Is this normal? The bed is rounded convexly to fit.

The slope opposite the bed (the wear?) changes directions like a western plane so that it is almost parallel to the bed. I thought this slope was straight and the they laminated a piece of wood on to it to tighten mouths with endgrain being the part that receives wear.

But i think it will be awhile before i get to this because trying to get out the little pits in the blade is proving to be impossible. Even the bevel is uber hard to make any progress on.

David, i saw your thread on tapping irons. Can chisels be tapped as well? Small chisels. I was thinking of skewing an old chisel for tenon shoulders but i would be in the hollow then and i am not equipped to lap that out. What is the Japanese method for tenon shoulders?I never see skewed chisels. Maybe those saws cut so smoothly or straight chisels are so sharp as to not require skew?

Wilbur, I saw in you blog you listen to Husker Du while working. That makes no sense at all.

[David Wong]

I'll take yous guyses words about not paring the abutments though i do not understand why. I think the chipbreaker is going to be loose when i ever get to this and i would think that paring the bed would exacerbate this and paring the contact portion of the abutments would help.I guess you just bend those dogears on the breaker to remedy this?

Yes, bending the dog ears is one way to handle this.

Plus the abutments are only contacting the blade near the top. To fix this via paring the bed i'd have to lower the bed angle and it is already at 36 degrees. Is this common with the back of the blade always being worked near the edge? Should the whole back be honed?

You only need to hone the front edge of the back. In fact, it is considered aesthetically unpleasing if you flatten the entire back and cause the flats on the side to widen. I typically hone so that the flat behind the edge is 2-3mm wide. On tough blades, I am happy to get 1mm. Be sure to use a crayon or pencil on the blade so you can see where it is contacting the bed of the dai. You really want to lightly scrape these areas then test the fit again. I am very cautious, and it takes me many fittings (more than 10?) to get an acceptable fit.

This blade is concave on the bevel side, the larger portion that contacts the bed. Is this normal? The bed is rounded convexly to fit.

Yes, this is normal. The goal in fitting a blade to a dai is to have the blade drop in to the convex area.

The slope opposite the bed (the wear?) changes directions like a western plane so that it is almost parallel to the bed. I thought this slope was straight and the they laminated a piece of wood on to it to tighten mouths with endgrain being the part that receives wear.

On dai's I have, this area is typically ~80degrees. Having a piece of wood to tighten the mouth is optional and may be added by the dai maker, or by the user after the fact.

David, i saw your thread on tapping irons. Can chisels be tapped as well? Small chisels. I was thinking of skewing an old chisel for tenon shoulders but i would be in the hollow then and i am not equipped to lap that out. What is the Japanese method for tenon shoulders?I never see skewed chisels. Maybe those saws cut so smoothly or straight chisels are so sharp as to not require skew?

Actually, that thread was on how NOT to tap out a plane iron. I do not use a skew chisel for tenon shoulders. I find my bench chisels adequate, but I guess it depends on the wood. I would not attempt to tap out a small chisel. Just lap the back until a large enough flat area is created. On small chisels, it really does not take that much effort. I use a #220 grit stone or a sigma #400 for heavy removal on the back of blades.

[Kees Heiden]

I have no idea about Japanese planes, but I noticed that Chris Hall started an extensive blog series about this subject:
http://thecarpentryway.blogspot.nl/2...u-perhaps.html

[Wilbur Pan]

I'll take yous guyses words about not paring the abutments though i do not understand why. I think the chipbreaker is going to be loose when i ever get to this and i would think that paring the bed would exacerbate this and paring the contact portion of the abutments would help.I guess you just bend those dogears on the breaker to remedy this? Plus the abutments are only contacting the blade near the top. To fix this via paring the bed i'd have to lower the bed angle and it is already at 36 degrees.

The bed angle will change, but the effective cutting angle won’t. The effective cutting angle is determined by the top edge of the grooves in the side of the throat that the blade fits into. That’s why you never want to touch that part of the plane when fitting a blade. You’re lowering the bed angle for the purpose of getting the blade to fit closer to the mouth, which is a good thing.

David, i saw your thread on tapping irons. Can chisels be tapped as well? Small chisels. I was thinking of skewing an old chisel for tenon shoulders but i would be in the hollow then and i am not equipped to lap that out. What is the Japanese method for tenon shoulders?I never see skewed chisels. Maybe those saws cut so smoothly or straight chisels are so sharp as to not require skew?

You don’t need to tap out a chisel, even wide ones, because the hollow in a chisel is shaped differently than the hollow of a plane blade. More info here: http://giantcypress.net/post/931326880/hatful-of-hollow

Wilbur, I saw in you blog you listen to Husker Du while working. That makes no sense at all.

I Apologize. You never know What's Going On (Inside My Head).