Cypress and Epifanes

[Patrick Harper]

I'll start by saying that I'm a complete beginner when it comes to finishing. I am building some Cypress Adirondack chairs for a customer and they requested a finish. They are being made out of Cypress and will sit on a concrete patio and be in the shade for most of the day. I've read some very good reviews of Epifanes, and thought I'd give it a try. My first question is whether Cypress will have any issues handling the marine varnish? Their directions suggest using the Epifanes thinner, but will regular mineral spirits be okay? Is there something better?

My other questions are related to general finishing. Do I need to pre-sand all of the unseen surfaces to the same level as the seen surfaces before finishing? Do I need to apply as many coats to the unseen surfaces?

Thanks!

[John TenEyck]

Epifanes Marine Varnish is the best exterior varnish I've ever used, by far. I've never used it on Cypress, but see no reason it shouldn't work well with it. I use mineral spirits with it with no problems. How far you sand the unseen surfaces is up to you, but I would sand them until they are smooth enough so that the varnish will form a uniform film over it - no rough spots that could leave a hole in the finish. And, yes, IMO you need to apply the same number of coats to all surfaces - 7 according to directions on the Epifanes can.

John

[David Eisenhauer]

Same number of coats on all surfaces to prevent an imbalance in the moisture intrusion in the finish that could lead to warping. Cypress sands so easily that you have to be careful not to go too far with the sanding. May as well just do the same sanding all the way around. Food for thought - Once the spar varnish is applied, the owner will then have to keep up with it from now on till the end of time. All spar (marine) varnish (Epifanes probably the best) works better than normal varnish due to the long oils in the formula, which keep the finish more flexible, but it will need renewal on a yearly basis if they really want to keep up with it. Some people let it go two-three years, but then have a bigger job to do than the annual light scuffing and re coating. Think of a wooden sailboat and all of the sanding/varnishing that never ends. Other alternatives include leave it unfinished (Cypress one of the most weather resistant woods around) and an outdoor oil-based paint job that will offer more protection, last longer and be easier to maintain than the varnish finish will. Downside? Nothing looks like that first varnished finish, but, oh my, it never lasts and can get old re doing for some folks. I knew a guy once whose permanent job was to work his way around the Annapolis, Md Yacht Club scuffing/varnishing the mahogany handrails on the two story building. It took him around two weeks to work his way around, then he'd do some grounds keeping, fence work, cleaning, etc for the next two weeks, then start all over with his scuffing/varnishing. The retired admirals wanted those handrails looking pretty all the time. I'm pretty sure he was smoking something those admirals would not have approved of in those days when he was scuffing/varnishing. Looked pretty mellowed out to me.

[Patrick Harper]

I really appreciate the advice. I might contact the customer and inform them of the upkeep and see if they want to reconsider. Thanks again. Great advice!

[Bill Huber]

I have some Cypress Adirondack out there that have been in the weather for the last 6 years and they still look fine. They did turn to that nice gray color but that is it.

I did add some 2 nail chair glides to the legs when they were going to be setting on the concrete, it keeps the water from wicking into the wood.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...ail-Glide.aspx