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Thread: Dye Stain on Hard Maple

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    N.E, Ohio
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    3,026

    Dye Stain on Hard Maple

    The LOML has ordered a kit (cabinet) for me to assemble. I chose to assemble the kit rather than buy the plans and machine all the pieces. The material will be hard maple.

    Anyway, we have chosen to use dye stain rather than a pigmented wiping stain because from what I have read maple is difficult to stain. I have also read that maple can be blotchy. This being said should I use something like Charles Neil Blotch Control on the maple prior to applying the dye stain? We have not settled on brand of dye stain, Behlen, General Finishes, TransTint all could end up being what is settled on all depending on the color meeting her expectations.

    Thanks

    George

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
    Posts
    3,147
    Be sure to test your finishing plans on an inconspicuous spot like on an inside surface, in a drawer or the inside surface of a door. It's the only way to learn how to apply the stain and see what it looks like before committing to the process. Never let your project be you learning curve.
    Howie.........

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    My choice of brands is generally W.D. Lockwood. They make dyes of all varieties and in a miriad of colors. I recommend using powdered water soluble dye since this gives good working time and is very flexible. Remember too that you can mix dyes (of a particular variety) to achieve any color that you wish.

    I would use Trans Fast instead of TransTint. TransTint remains soluble in a wide variety of solvents limiting your top coat alternatives. As far as I know General Finishes does not make a dye. They make a stain product with dye colorant but it is mixed with a waterborne binder that makes the application process challenging. Once you include the binder with the color you make a product thats quite a different horse than a dye. Dye generally is only mixed in a solvent with no binder. That makes it correctable or changeable up to the point where you apply a sealer or other top coat.

    Howard is exactly right. You need to do your practicing in out of the way places not where they can be seen themselves. By the way, "blotch control" is generally meant for use under stains containing pigment.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,453
    Before I apply either a dye or a stain, I wipe or brush on a light coat of 1/2lb cut Blonde Shellac. A 1/2lb cut is so thin that it just soaks in. Next apply whatever colorant you wish, be it dye or stain, and you should not have any problem with blotching. BTW, I personally use a lot of General Finishes products, including their premixed waterborne dyes, gel stains, and waterborne topcoats. Oh, and I also love their "Outdoor Oil" on outdoor projects. I do also use Lockwood's Metal Complex dyes on occasion.
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

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