Sacrificial Surface on Workbench

[Stew Hagerty]

I'm just finishing my workshop remodel and I'm adding a new auxiliary bench. I have already laminated the top using layers of MDF/PLYWOOD/MDF. However now I want to put on a top layer of 1/4" hardboardboard that I can change out from time to time.
The thing is, I was wondering what exactly is the best way to do that? I really don't want to have to resort to screws unless absolutely necessary.
I am going to be wrapping the exposed edges of the top with a hardwood of some type. Perhaps there is a good way of utilizing that. Or, maybe I'm just overthinking it.
Either way, I could really use some advice.

[Adam Cruea]

The only thing I can think of is maybe tapered dowels driven into holes. Or stepped pegs.

Drive them into holes in the subsurface with a little glue to hold them to the sacrificial board. Flush saw to saw them even to the sacrificial board.

[Andrew Fleck]

I don't know how big your bench is, but why not just attach the skirt pieces 1/4" above your top layer of MDF. You could just drop in the masonite and the skirts would hold it in place. Im thinking it will lay flat on it's own but I could be wrong. Just notch a corner of the masonite so you can drop it in and out.

[Stew Hagerty]

I don't know how big your bench is, but why not just attach the skirt pieces 1/4" above your top layer of MDF. You could just drop in the masonite and the skirts would hold it in place. Im thinking it will lay flat on it's own but I could be wrong. Just notch a corner of the masonite so you can drop it in and out.

Well, that is pretty much what I had in mind Andrew. Two things though, one is as you brought up, laying flat on it's own. The other is that I hadn't planned on running the hardwood edging all the way around. I was only going to wrap it on the exposed edges, and not up against the wall. I could, of course, I just hadn't planned on it.

[Ted Calver]

I don't know how big your bench is, but why not just attach the skirt pieces 1/4" above your top layer of MDF. You could just drop in the masonite and the skirts would hold it in place. Im thinking it will lay flat on it's own but I could be wrong. Just notch a corner of the masonite so you can drop it in and out.

This is exactly what I did with mine. Works great, stayed flat. I have yet to replace it though. It holds up well.

[Tim Janssen]

I used 1/4" hardboard on 3 layers of MDF and used just a few squirrels of glue to hold it in place. As suggested trim the top with 1 x ? with the hardboard within the trim, make sure to keep the glue away from the hardwood trim or you might damage the trim when you want to replace the sacrificial layer of hardboard. I found that out when I had to replace the hardboard.
Good luck with your project.

Tim

[Chris Fournier]

I don't know how big your bench is, but why not just attach the skirt pieces 1/4" above your top layer of MDF. You could just drop in the masonite and the skirts would hold it in place. Im thinking it will lay flat on it's own but I could be wrong. Just notch a corner of the masonite so you can drop it in and out.

This is it. Or two sided tape.

[Winton Applegate]

Well you know me . . .
I have to be different
besides you are getting all kinds of great advice for your wild idea.

Not sure how a Neander is going to use a bench that you can’t flatten . . .
but anyway
I just wanted to say :

I GOT YOUR SACRIFICIAL WORK BENCH RIGHT HERE !
just having fun with you





When I planed this big”O table top, weighs mucho, I just put down a sheet of 1/4 masonite, loose, on top of my work bench so I wouldn’t gouge up the bench and put the table on it.

That same piece of masonite is the same size as the cutting table and I put it on it when I need a light table that stuff won't fall through the gaps between the two bys.


You can see it peeking out here





Then it was onto the sacrificial bench for sawing the table top to size. Just set the blade a sixteenth or eighth bellow the work and cut right into the two by cutting table. Very convenient and no nails or screws to run into. I joined the top with mortise and tenons and no glue. I can bang it apart with a mallet and put it all in a box if I had to. Snug fit up was all it took to hold it together just fine. Inexpensive folding cafeteria table legs from WoodCraft if I remember right.





Ignore the electron user.
I must admit the worst . . . I love my Dewalt power saw. Very precise because it is very tune able/align able. Sweet machine.
Of course . . .
they discontinued it.

Probably not what you want but . . . there it is.

[Mike Holbrook]

I made my first workbench this way. I used a 1/4" piece of masonite for the top like Andrew mentions, thicker MDF might be better. I made wood side trim pieces that trapped the top surface in place. In my case, I made the trim slightly shorter than the 1/4" depth of the masonite piece. The raised top prevents things from catching on the trim and loosening it. It also makes it easy to swap sacrificial tops. Before adding the trim pieces, place the masonite/MDF... on whatever framework you use and trace the exact shape so that you get an exact fit, making sure it is exact. Next time I do this I will just make two or three different types of tops to start, although the old top can serve as a templet to make new tops. One top will be a piece of foam sheathing, one a thicker piece of MDF, MDF with round holes for clamping, maybe even a laminated surface. Sheathing makes a great surface for cutting sheet goods on with a Festool or other track saw. The track saw needs to cut slightly into the surface below the piece being cut.

[David Barnett]

...should have a piercing cavity (so as not to blunt the obsidian dagger), dual blood grooves and a place to sweep the entrails.

[Stew Hagerty]

I used 1/4" hardboard on 3 layers of MDF and used just a few squirrels of glue to hold it in place. As suggested trim the top with 1 x ? with the hardboard within the trim, make sure to keep the glue away from the hardwood trim or you might damage the trim when you want to replace the sacrificial layer of hardboard. I found that out when I had to replace the hardboard.
Good luck with your project.

Tim

Thanks for the ideas Tim. I do have one question though. I feel kinda of dumb actually asking it because I'm sure it is something Neanders know all about.

I have several types of glue, Titebond, Titebond Extend, Titebond III, Gorilla Glue, Epoxy, etc...

I even have Hide Glue ready for mixing. But for the life of me, What is Squirrel Glue???
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________

This is it. Or two sided tape.

Chris,

I'm liking that Double Sided Tape idea.
__________________________________________________ _________________________________

Well you know me . . .
I have to be different
besides you are getting all kinds of great advice for your wild idea.

Not sure how a Neander is going to use a bench that you can’t flatten . . .
but anyway
I just wanted to say :

Probably not what you want but . . . there it is.

Winton,

I have a nice big Euopean Style bench that I inherited from my FIL. And, in fact, I flattened the top just last Fall.

However, in the course of my workshop remodel, I tore out my old auxiliary bench where I did my sharpening, finish mixing, all kinds of storage, and general depository for everything I didn't want on my main workbench.

This is going to replace that bench. I fully expect that I will want to replace the hardboard surface from time to time due to wear & tear.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________________

By the way... Here is a link to my shop remodel thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...4-Shop-Remodel

[Stew Hagerty]

...should have a piercing cavity (so as not to blunt the obsidian dagger), dual blood grooves and a place to sweep the entrails.

Dark Dave, Dark!

Notice I did say "sacrificial Surface" not "sacrificial Altar"

[Steve Voigt]

...should have a piercing cavity (so as not to blunt the obsidian dagger), dual blood grooves and a place to sweep the entrails.

Why obsidian? Are you sacrificing a white walker?

[Dave Anderson NH]

Andrew gave you the answer. Both my assembly/finishing bench and my sharpening bench have hardwood edgings that stick up 1/4" above the main top. I use Masonite(hardboard) as a disposable work surface. When it gets too cut up, covered by finishes, gouged, or otherwise grungy I just flip it over and use the other side. I did drill a 3/4" hole through both tops in one corner so I can poke a dowel or finger through to lift the hardboard for easy removal.

[Stew Hagerty]

Andrew gave you the answer. Both my assembly/finishing bench and my sharpening bench have hardwood edgings that stick up 1/4" above the main top. I use Masonite(hardboard) as a disposable work surface. When it gets too cut up, covered by finishes, gouged, or otherwise grungy I just flip it over and use the other side. I did drill a 3/4" hole through both tops in one corner so I can poke a dowel or finger through to lift the hardboard for easy removal.

So you don't put anything down to keep the hardboard from curling up?