Shop Wood Rack

[Bill Adamsen]

I had a wall in my shop I'd designated for a wood storage rack. After looking at alternatives I came up with a plan that leveraged some surplus materials I had in stock - 2-1/2" thick Eastern Hemlock flooring and 12' KD Douglas Fir 2X6. The rack verticals are eleven feet tall (plus the base height) and about the same width. The work required was primarily milling and glueing. Several weeks ago I'd shaped and drilled the metal brackets according to plan. The upper brackets I would have done differently if I had a welder. I would have allowed the "posts" to slip vertically - and I may yet make that modification. But overall I'm happy with the outcome.

The cantilevered arms are 34" long overall. Once the Hemlock was cut to four foot lengths, jointed and planed, I cut two arms per section by cutting diagonally on the bandsaw. The verticals were Doug Fir sandwiching planed hemlock "dividers." I glued them up one per evening this week (that used about all my clamps) and then milled for finish when all were glued up. I emptied the dust collection barrel four times during the milling process of verticals and cantilever arms.

I think it will be an improvement to be able to stack material I'm about to use near at hand. I've only made half the total possible quantity of cantilevered arms. I have just enough remaining Hemlock to get that done.

Oh, the Eastern White pine on the racks is 1/2" thick offcuts (didn't grade out at 3/4") about 14" to 18" wide and often clear. It comes relatively inexpensively and I use it for drawer bottoms. Some of the other material includes Black Walnut, Aspen, Mulberry and Ironwood. The "smutz" on the base is ... you probably guessed it ... bird droppings. The barn swallows got in the other day and caused me great distress.

Let me know if you like it!

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[Jim Andrew]

I added a room last winter, using it for storage mostly, and I am stacking my lumber standing up. Used 2x4's and drilled 1" holes and used 3/4" gas pipe to make the dividers. Installed some at different heights to allow for shorter length boards. Put mine about 15" apart so not a huge numbers of boards in each bay. A lot of boards fit in the bays, and not so hard to pick out boards for projects. My plywood is stacked on a steel pallet rack flat. The rack is about 9' long and 3.5' wide.

[Bill McNiel]

Very nice and effective

[glenn bradley]

Nicely done Bill. Does the job and looks nice to boot.

[Doug Ladendorf]

That's a pretty heavy duty rack Bill. It looks great and very functional. I love the hardware you made. Was that just with angle iron? The square nuts and bolts are a nice touch too.

[Bill Adamsen]

... the hardware you made. Was that just with angle iron? The square nuts and bolts are a nice touch too.

Mild steel angle iron (2X2) cuts easily with a jig-saw (bi-metal blades), sands easily with a belt sander and drills easily with HSS bits. I like doing the work with hand tools because I can then do it outside. I have an aversion to cut metal waste in the shop - it just seems to get everywhere. I figure the iron is good for the plants.

The square head bolts and nuts I get from Blacksmith Bolts (am I allowed to say that? I have no connection) and he carries an amazing selection of really top quality stuff. It drives me crazy because the minimum shipping costs are so high, so I'm always over-ordering - which on the other hand can come in handy for projects like this. I used threaded rod for passing through the large members.

[Doug Ladendorf]

...The square head bolts and nuts I get from Blacksmith Bolts (am I allowed to say that? I have no connection) and he carries an amazing selection of really top quality stuff. It drives me crazy because the minimum shipping costs are so high, so I'm always over-ordering - which on the other hand can come in handy for projects like this...

As far as I'm concerned you can say it. :-) and thanks for the resource. Checking it out.

[Bill Adamsen]

In downloading some photos I noticed one that illustrated a trick that I thought I might be useful for anyone who is unfamiliar with this technique. I have seen other postings at Sawmill Creek that also described this well-known timber framing technique. It definitely "wasn't invented here."

The problem is, how to drill a straight hole through ~6" of material and hit a specific spot on the other side. I couldn't really hoist these "verticals" up to use a drill-press so I used a "mirror" (Compact Disc) with a hole in it. Here is a link to the page at the Timber Framers Guild store - with a video - that shows how to use it. The plexiglass mirrors they (used to) sell are much better than a CD. But, all the holes I drilled using just the CD as a mirror connected "spot on" in the center of the beams. That would have been 32 drilled holes for this project.

With a bit of double sided tape, the CD works well for drilling holes square to walls as well. Apologies for wasting the time of those who already knew the trick.


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