Got compressor, now what?

[Kelvin Burton]

CH-air-compressor.jpgI was able to purchased this air compressor used for $250 for my workshop where my primary activity is woodturning. I know I need some plumbing and sort of moisture filter and maybe more between the compressor and my lathe. On Amazon I see SMC filters starting around $80 and at Harbor Freight they start at $8. I'd also like a way to drain the tank that doesn't require getting down on hands and knees to open the drain valve!

I'm trying to figure out what size pipe to use as this significantly impacts the price of the filters, etc. Looks like I can use 3/4", 1/2" or 3/8" but I don't know where to start.

Any help would be appreciated!!

Kelvin

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Kelvin, they make drain valves that are electrically and automatically operated and you don't have to worry about them. I will search for one and post a link in this post.

Here's a manual drain at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Val...or+drain+valve

Here's a couple electric automatic ones sold at Northern tool: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too..._ite=automatic drain valves&mkwid=snJj5NAKu&pcrid=15446985311&mt=b&stor eId=6970&langId=-1&type=search&gclid=CI3f-sPDub4CFagWMgodix4AfA

[Scott T Smith]

Hi Kelvin. Nice score on the compressor! I think that I have that same model (or one very close to it) on my welding trailer. It's around 10 cfm and 135psi as I recall, and you will want to run it off of a 230VAC circuit with 10/2 with ground wiring. It is a great size for a small / medium shop. It would be a good idea to replace the lubricant in the compressor; Ingersol Rand has a nice synthetic lubricant that works well, as does their petroleum based one. In a pinch you can use non-detergent SAE 30 motor oil, but the special formulate compressor oil is your best bet.

Ken has some great advice re automatic drain valves. I use a Wilkerson model on one of my compressors, but they are pretty expensive. It is an all pneumatic model that operates based upon pressure differential between when the compressor starts and stops. I've heard a lot of positive feedback regarding the clones that Horror Freight sells (but will admit that I am not a HF fan...)

Re the pipe size, you have lots of options. The benefits of the larger sized pipe is high volume with low line losses for larger shops that use multiple air tools simultaneously. For a smaller, one person shop, unless you need to run your line 100' or more 1/2" should be a great compromise between cost and performance. 3/8" would probably work just fine; I personally prefer the larger size.

In a commercial installation, black pipe or copper tubing is a preferred infrastructure medium for air, but it is expensive and time consuming to install. In smaller shops, a new product called "Rapid Air" was introduced a few years ago and it has a lot of positive feedback from users, so you might want to look into it. It is being used more and more in commercial installations too. The general consensus is to stay away from pvc pipe for air lines, as it is brittle and can send shrapnel around the shop if it is accidentally impacted while under pressure. Many people use PEX; if you go this route be sure to buy tubing that is rated for the pressures and keep it out of the sunlight (UV can deteriorate it over time).

On the filter / regulator side for a small shop, Ingersol-rand makes some great products at a reasonable price. Northern Tool sells them online, as do a large number of retailers, and they are easy to find replacement filters for.

On my air systems I like to come off of the compressor with a ball valve, that then feeds a flexible connection (typically use a hydraulic hose) into the filter/regulators, and from there hard pipe to the rest of the shop. The flexible connection will isolate the vibrations from the compressor from the rest of the line and help to avoid cracks. When I leave the shop at night I usually turn off the ball valve and the power to the compressor.

Best of success to you with your installation.

[Brian W Smith]

Generally,the further from the heat source(compressor head itself) that you plumb in your moisture traps/filters.....the better.Hot air holds more moisture(and funk getting past compressor rings)than cool air.You are stacking the deck,so to speak,to get that air cool,as quick as possible.Google images for some ideas.It depends on your resources as to which approach makes the most sense......and take an honest look at your requirements(dry air).For instance,let's say you're running a plasma cutter.....a sandblast cabinet......higher end finishes.Then your requirements are going to be at one level.....next guy just wants to shoot some nails or pump up the kid's two wheelers,that's a completely different requirement.So,only the end user can do the calcs as to what meets their needs.

I will say,however......it dosen't hurt a thing to have,too dry of air.Your kids bikes may not care,but say an nailgun over it's life,well some degree of dryness will help.It dosen't have to cost much....but is so dependent on your ability and desire.A bunch of zig-zaged copper pipe/tubing has worked very well for a lot of folks......these don't have any real moving parts so could be termed "passive".Active systems,if store bought can EASILY get into thousands of dollars in the form of refrigerated dryers,then a 3 stage bank of Sata desiccant dryers,and you'll be ready for a cardiologist when the bill comes.Good luck,and google some images.BW

[John A langley]

Here are three things that I did that helped with my water problem, I have no problems in the finishing room, the up over and down on the piping works well

[Jeff Duncan]

Size pipe depends on your use, for a one man hobby shop you probably don't need anything more than 1/2" though. The advantages of the larger size pipes is they hold more air which essentially extends the capacity of your system, as well as reducing pressure drops when you have multiple users.

You don't need to buy a filter the same size as the pipe, you can run 1/2" pipe and use a reducing bushing down to 3/8" at the filter if you want. I believe 3/8" will still have plenty of flow for just about anything a small shop would use.

Can't help you on the drain, I'm still bending down for mine

good luck,
JeffD

[Kent A Bathurst]

Kelvin, they make drain valves that are electrically and automatically operated and you don't have to worry about them. I will search for one and post a link in this post.

IIRC, there are also auto drain valves that work on the pressure of the tank - cycle briefly each time the compressor kicks on. McMaster-Carr.

[Kelvin Burton]

Thanks everyone for these comments, it has been very helpful! I will do some more Googling as well as talk with some local guys about what they used. Then I need to check my budget!! At this point my main use is to blow away shavings from my woodturning and out of my hollow forms. However, I'm sure other uses will come up over time!

[David C. Roseman]

Here are three things that I did that helped with my water problem, I have no problems in the finishing room, the up over and down on the piping works well

John, this is an interesting setup to me, and looks very well done. I see that the drain petcock is at window-sill level, which eliminates the need to squat down to open it. But do you not worry about moisture collecting in the pipe between the bottom of the tank and the first riser? There seems to be no way to purge other than blowing it through the system to the petcock, or beyond to the filter.

David