LED Edge Lit Clocks

[Rich Fennessey]

This was on my list for a long time. A couple of other members on the camheads forum had been making clocks and I like that it provides some utility in addition to looks.

The first clock is just on a normal LED edge lit base and it is our local high school logo.

I've also wanted to build a round one that hangs on the wall and wanted to make puzzle joints, so I combined the activity into one (2nd photo). Both of these clocks utilize 1/4" mirrored acrylic. The only issue I have with the round clock is if you view it from the side you get the direct LED light. I need to put a 1/4" or so dark strip around the perimeter to mitigate that. I tried electrical tape on a small section and that helped but don't have a good/easy solution for doing it nicely around the entire perimeter. I'm thinking I might just try painting it. I of course could make the inset deeper but this takes valuable room from the segments containing the electronics. I also just barely get two of these segments cut from the 5.5" width of a standard board. The frame pieces are 2" wide.

The puzzle pieces worked out really nice. I left a gap of .003" for a good fit. This is using a spindle, if you use a router, you may get a little less tight due to lower runout specs on a router. I made this over a month ago and haven't had time to finish up the 3/4" maple. I like the concept since I can use 5.5" wide material to make a 12" diameter frame. The visible part of the clock is 10" in diameter.

The clock itself was pretty easy, figuring out the backing was harder. I had to make spacers so it wouldn't wobble on the clock mechanism. I used 1/4" MDF backing on the back. I also made a custom piece to hold a keyhole and used rubber feet on the bottom to space it.

If you are wondering what the round metallic items are on the edges of the clock, those are tuna cans. Once you install the clock, you can't lay it down on the front since you will destroy the hands. The cans kept the front lifted off the table. I'm thinking I'd like to use an offset space to put a clear piece of acrylic on the front but not sure I'll get around to that.


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[Dan Hintz]

The only issue I have with the round clock is if you view it from the side you get the direct LED light. I need to put a 1/4" or so dark strip around the perimeter to mitigate that. I tried electrical tape on a small section and that helped but don't have a good/easy solution for doing it nicely around the entire perimeter. I'm thinking I might just try painting it.

How about a piece of matching veneer?

[Rich Fennessey]

I could put tape there but hard to make a nice circle from it. Any material like that would entail making little straight lines of material and applying in segments. It may look fine, just a matter of either crimping the material every 20 deg or so but if you happen to see it, it may not look good. I guess I could ideally have something laser cut in half or quarter circle pieces (so as not to cut a 10" diameter whole piece) to lay on the acrylic. It is really the reflection of the back mirror that causes most of the glare.

Laminate matching the frame and lying on the outside of the frame is a decent idea though. It might have a tendency to peal up from acrylic. Good idea, that is a big reason I post things like this, the group input usually spawns some type of solution. I don't think I cut cut it correctly - would need someone to laser some pieces for me or just be real careful with scissors.

[Bruce Page]

Rich, did you use a diamond drag on the acrylic? I just bought one but haven’t played with it yet.

The clocks look great.

[Rich Fennessey]

Yes, I used a 3/8" diameter diamond drag bit with a 90 deg tip. I also bought a 120 deg tip but haven't used it yet. I set depth to .03" and run engraving and pocketing tool paths. It is really nice to run since your router/spindle isn't going and it is really quiet.

[Mark Vios]

On see through acrylic signs the back side of the sign is etched or milled and that lights better if viewed from the front side. With mirror backed acrylic I'd think you have to mill the face? Looking at the back side of your clock it looked like I could see the design. I'm new to edge lit signs, so I'm wondering how you did it.
Thanks so much! Awesome clock.

This was on my list for a long time. A couple of other members on the camheads forum had been making clocks and I like that it provides some utility in addition to looks.

The first clock is just on a normal LED edge lit base and it is our local high school logo.

I've also wanted to build a round one that hangs on the wall and wanted to make puzzle joints, so I combined the activity into one (2nd photo). Both of these clocks utilize 1/4" mirrored acrylic. The only issue I have with the round clock is if you view it from the side you get the direct LED light. I need to put a 1/4" or so dark strip around the perimeter to mitigate that. I tried electrical tape on a small section and that helped but don't have a good/easy solution for doing it nicely around the entire perimeter. I'm thinking I might just try painting it. I of course could make the inset deeper but this takes valuable room from the segments containing the electronics. I also just barely get two of these segments cut from the 5.5" width of a standard board. The frame pieces are 2" wide.

The puzzle pieces worked out really nice. I left a gap of .003" for a good fit. This is using a spindle, if you use a router, you may get a little less tight due to lower runout specs on a router. I made this over a month ago and haven't had time to finish up the 3/4" maple. I like the concept since I can use 5.5" wide material to make a 12" diameter frame. The visible part of the clock is 10" in diameter.

The clock itself was pretty easy, figuring out the backing was harder. I had to make spacers so it wouldn't wobble on the clock mechanism. I used 1/4" MDF backing on the back. I also made a custom piece to hold a keyhole and used rubber feet on the bottom to space it.

If you are wondering what the round metallic items are on the edges of the clock, those are tuna cans. Once you install the clock, you can't lay it down on the front since you will destroy the hands. The cans kept the front lifted off the table. I'm thinking I'd like to use an offset space to put a clear piece of acrylic on the front but not sure I'll get around to that.


SAM_2770.jpgSAM_2796.jpgSAM_2779.jpgSAM_2784.jpgSAM_2788.jpgSAM_2786.jpg

[Rich Fennessey]

If you mill the face, you end up getting the reflection even on regular acrylic. You definitely want to do the reverse image on the back.

[Michael Davis4]

Hello Rich, Could you pass on where you got the Acrylic and base from. The only suppliers I can find what me to order 1000 units.

Thank you, Michael Davis

[Rich Fennessey]

I get my acrylic from estreetplastics.com but I made the round clock frame from maple and the other base from either MDF or poplar. I too couldn't find a solution I liked, so spent quite a bit of time designing and making these.