Construction Grade Lumber for Furniture?

[johnny means]

Where are you guys buying furniture grade lumber that doesn't cost much more than construction grade?

[Bill McNiel]

To reiterate, 2x4s, etc are not dried to the lower moisture levels typically appropriate for furniture. That being understood, one can construct some very nice projects using it. Sticker it and wait for it to dry. I have built multiple shop projects with fir (bases for my "stationary tools", frames, shelf supports, etc.). In my region Lowes has significantly better material than HD (HD is all Hemlock, white, soft and very wet, I won't use their stuff to frame anything). When I find fir studs that are verticle grain with minimal knots I buy them, sticker them and eventually re-mill and use them.

Go ahead and try out some projects. Woodworking is a lifelong learning experience.

[Victor Robinson]

Like others have said, you can make furniture from construction lumber. Stack the odds in your favor by buying kiln-dried, and as vertical grain as possible (look at the end of the 2x4s...if you see half a tree stay away from that board!).

Hardwoods are more expensive than 2x4s and construction grade pine, but they also behave very differently. With respect to hand-tooling, they can be frustrating to work because they require sharper chisels and plane blades to avoid chipping, tear-out etc. I think a good compromise is poplar. It can be had relatively cheaply, and though it is softer than the average hardwood, it works/machines like a hardwood and is much better than the construction grade stuff. It's a good hardwood to learn on, especially if you're chopping dovetails, doing mortise and tenons, etc.

Don't bother with pine. Will leave a nasty pitch all over your machines and it's just a pain to work IMHO.

[Mike Olson]

Where are you guys buying furniture grade lumber that doesn't cost much more than construction grade?

That's what I was wondering. a full 2x4x8' is ~ $3 here.

[jack forsberg]

I have been told the Tuba4 furniture goes great with the milk crate master pieces of the 70s. frank Loyd wright eat your hart out.

[Rick Gibson]

A good friend of mine had 5 kids, 4 girls and made bunk beds for the girls they lasted at least 15 years and 2 moves that I know of before he started breaking them down as the kids moved out.

[Charles Li]

Construction grade lumber is OK if you don't plan on slicing it up. If you keep full size 2x4 pieces and just cut to length then you shouldn't have much problem at all. Most of the 2x projects you see online are just that.

Very cool project! All I've found at the Borgs here are SPF so far but I don't know enough to identify the specific type. I have yet to hit up a real lumber yard but maybe that's my next step.

[Charles Li]

While dimensional lumber (framing material) could be acceptable for a finished surface in certain areas I think one main thing to consider is that all the same issues apply. If your conscious of wood movement and build accordingly your results can be perfectly find and in some cases very nice. Lower grades, and less dry grades, of material are commonly used even in commercial furniture building however the use is appropriate to its condition. For instance a carcass for an upholstered piece of furniture can accommodate lesser quality materials. Other pieces can incorporate lesser quality secondary woods. And so on.

Of course if your thinking of building finish furniture out of framing lumber you'll have to allow for a substantial leap away from fine furniture but seeing as your OK with that have at it.

The bottom line is material selection, and an understanding of wood movement, are the most critical.

Thanks, makes sense. I don't know if this is more of a fine furniture site so maybe the discussions is a bit out of place. Sounds like most people are saying if you get the drying under control and have reasonable expectations it can be worth the effort.

[Randy Rizzo]

I've done a few pieces over the years with construction grade material. To date it has held up well. Use it for a "rustic" look for our cabin..

[Curt Harms]

Sticker and let it dry as others have said. Look for stock where the rings aren't 1/4" apart. Lowes sometimes has 2 X 3s with very tight rings, 10+/inch. I've used those for temporary or prototyping purposes and they seem pretty stable. If you're going to paint or upholster, who really cares how the wood finishes. And if you do want to finish, Randy's results above are pretty hard to argue with. You're not likely to get heirloom quality formal pieces from construction grade materials. Not everything has to be heirloom quality, especially when you're just starting out.

[Erik Christensen]

I gave construction lumber a try for a weekend project just to see how it would turn out - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...als&highlight=

I would not do it again unless I wanted a rough/rustic look. yes i saved a few bucks over poplar but it cost several additional hours making extra pieces due to chipout when shaping and it just took a lot longer than it should have. You want the rustic look then go for it but for me the cost savings are not worth the hassle of working with it - you might place a different value on your shop time.

[Peter Quinn]

I built the carriage house doors on my garage with 2X6's from the Home depot. I do millwork (cabinets, doors, etc) for a living, so I have a good Idea what to look for. You should the faces and hear the comments from the lumber aisle guys when some weird little man in glasses shows up with a moisture meter and turns a whole pile of 2X6X10 to pull 8 boards. I like to go in the late fall/winter when building is slow and shelves are stocked, better selection. I like to go on thursday mornings.....the Wednesday overnight crew culls the piles and restocks, so supply is higher then and no crowds to contend with at 6AM thursdays. The stuff I bought was KD and was in a pile of #2 com but most of it was select or better, at least #1, and the MC at core was 9%...the borg heating system is like a kiln in some ways, good to go n middle of winter. Fir will air dry IME cut to rough lengths in about 6 months from 18% to usable, maybe sooner other factors depending.

Wider framing material is your best bet for cutting clear quality material. It is cut from more mature trees and is generally stronger/cleaner than 2X4's due to the spans it must with stand. 2X10's will be floor joists, ceiling joists, maybe rafters, I've found some fine boards hidden in packs of 2X10's. 2X4's are often thin trees and limbs, not stable, good enough for the purpose but maybe not for your furniture. So learn to read a board, good exercise anyway if your into this wood working thing, be selective and observant. You probably wont get a piece in the MET made from 2X's but it will make functional objects you can enjoy and be proud to call your own creation.

[johnny means]

Am I the only person who thinks it's wrong to cull construction lumber while it's on the rack?

[Art Mann]

I haven't made fine furniture with construction grade lumber because of the quality. However, I have made precision jigs and fixtures with it many times. If you choose carefully and let it dry to several months it is as stable as any other lumber. The problem I have with it is it isn't precision machined. I will machine it down to flat, straight and precise dimensions just as if it were rough sawn.

[Mark Bolton]

Am I the only person who thinks it's wrong to cull construction lumber while it's on the rack?

No, your not. If it were my yard I'd throw them out on their ear. It's an utterly obnoxious and absurd ebdeavor. Many would argue you'd go broke pissing off the retail crowd.. I don't buy it. I buy from two yards weekly that simply won't stand for such goofyness but if the boxes are OK with it who am I to say...

It's kooky to say the least.