Questions for you Stair Masters out there.

[John Miliunas]

We have an open staircase going to our second floor area. We like the concept and would like to keep the general form. We've tossed around several designs, including the most beautiful one, which Mark Singer designed and was gracious enough to get drawings to us for. (That one is still my favorite, but may be too cost prohibitive. ) Regardless, one of the main concerns is the treads themselves. The current treads are 42" wide and are 6/4 Pine. (The whole thing is painted and looks like something you'd have leading to a basement! ) I'm assuming that the 6/4 thickness is due to them being open (no risers) and because they're as wide as they are. Would this be a fair assumption on my part?

The tentative plan is to rebuild the entire staircase, keeping the open design. We're leaning toward Hard Maple or Walnut treads. Would either be stronger than the other? Would I need to keep the thickness at 6/4? I'm pretty sure I can get either wood deep enough (10"), but if I can't and need be, would it be prudent to edge glue narrower boards to get the depth necessary? I guess similar questions apply to the stringers. Would Walnut or Maple be sturdier and more stable?

I'm thinking either would work OK for everyday traffic, but one of my big concerns is when heavier items need to be moved up/down, because our daughter's bedroom is up there, as is our main entertainment area. (Future entertainment center, heavy flat screen CRT TV, couches, etc...) Suggestions, tips and recommendations highly appreciated. Looks like this will be a Fall/Winter project, so now is the time to start thinking about it and stocking necessary materials.

[Jim Becker]

John, the open stairway in our great room has 8/4 risers. (Rough barnwood at present) I'll likely stay with that when I replace them as I like the look and heft for this kind of application. That's the key to this project...since the risers/treads are all you "see", the thickness needs to be in proportion, both to the surrounding room and the structure since it's visible. Too thin makes for a whimpy looking arrangement...same goes for too thick. And, of course, thicker is stronger...but you knew that!

As to ours...my goal is to replace the rough treads with cherry. Same with the railings, etc.

[Richard Wolf]

John, most staircases today use 5/4 hardwood treads with risers. I think in your situation, 6/4 pine, 42 wide and no risers is borderline strength wise.
Jim has good points about design and proportions. 8/4 treads are standard for open riser staircases. The problem is that completely open staircases like you are contemplating no longer meet building codes. This may not be a concern for you as I assume it is only a remodel that does not have to meet todays standards.
To meet codes open riser stairs are now using false risers that hang down 3" under the tread and may be set back to give more of an illusion of open stairs.
Anyway, without running on with a long post, strength wise I don't know if maple or walnut is stronger, I would think maple would be easier to finish and cheaper in cost.
The stringers should also be made from 8/4 material if this is an unsupported stair on one side.
Lastly, glueing up thinner material to make wider treads is the morn in the stair industry and should not pose a strength problem at all.
Show us some pics. along the way.

Building codes for staircases; check photo 17.
www.stairways.org/pdf/2003%20Stair%20IRC%20SCREEN.pdf

Richard

[John Miliunas]

Richard, thanks much for the link! Loads of great info there. You're right in as much that this would be a remodel, but I'm still thinking of maybe getting it to present day code, as it would probably be an easier "sell", once it came time to sell the property, if/when we do that. We really do intend on keeping the "open" look, though I think that false riser wouldn't take too much away from the general look and add some sturdiness to the structure, plus give us the "up to code" status. Thanks for giving me some more direction and food for thought on this!

Jim, we're thinking of incorporating some Cherry, as well, but that will probably be reserved for part of the railing structure, which we're still undecided on at the moment. Should be an experience, as I've never tackled anything of this nature before!

[Jim Becker]

Richard, could a clear material, such as 1/4" or 3/8" Lexan serve as the risers to meet code while still allowing the stairs to remain "open" from a look standpoint?

[Richard Wolf]

Richard, could a clear material, such as 1/4" or 3/8" Lexan serve as the risers to meet code while still allowing the stairs to remain "open" from a look standpoint?

Absolutely, The type of material is not important and the lexan idea is a good one.

John, I would not be overly concerned about meeting present day codes. When you sell your house it only has to meet codes of when it was built or last inspected.
Todays codes have almost gone to far in trying to overprotect people. I'm sure you want things safe for your family, but they were safe two years ago before all the changes.
Anyway, anytime I can help, I'm always here!

Richard

[John Miliunas]

John, I would not be overly concerned about meeting present day codes. When you sell your house it only has to meet codes of when it was built or last inspected.
Richard

Thanks, Richard! No more toddlers here, so that's not a concern. Open and airy is the look we're after. Besides, not including the false risers would certainly help on the pocketbook, as well as the time element! Appreciate all your assistance!

[Roger Everett]

John:
On the treads: All the factory made ones I buy are generally made up of 2 1/2 - 3 1/4 wide pcs. glued up, which is also best for prevention against warping , cupping.
The change in the open tread design, of adding a center strip , is for the current 4" sphere test, which also relates to baluster spacing. So the material used could be decorative , lexan ,or whatever, just to prevent a childs head from getting stuck. As Richard mentioned, when the work is a small remodel ( homeowner), not getting involved with a permit, you can generally be considered as having to work with the original or what's there.
Store bought treads run 1 to 1 1/16", but for your open ones with no riser and if you only have 2 stringer , that the 6/4 would be fine , here I/m figuring you mean a full 1 1/2" (7/4). Either in Hard Maple or Walnut, even if you took a pc. of 1 1/2 X 10 pine and put it on 2 pcs. of wood on floor and jumped on it, it would not deflect or have bounce,. The important thing is if your heigth tread to tread and finish floor to 1st tread etc. is uniform, keep your you same demensions in material.
For replacing your stringers in Maple or Walnut, I don't see a problem except timber that size is going to be $$. For them you might consider making a glue-up in the idea of a Gluelam , or even using an LUV skined over with your finish material ( similar to veenering over.
Roger