first molding planes

[David Weaver]

Yes.
.......

[Steve Voigt]

I'd like to make some moulding and other planes. In fact, I want to make a 1/4" drawer bottom plane as well (probably first). Your great step-by-step post really helps.

For me, these are common tasks done with a power router that I'd prefer to do by hand because it would be quieter, safer and more satisfying. Where I get stuck is the irons. I'm not a skilled metalworker. I'll learn and do as much metalworking as I have to to support working wood with hand tools but it's only a means to that end. At this point, cutting hardening and tempering an iron for one of these is beyond my skill set and my tool set.

Am I better off looking for completely functional tools on the auction site or can the irons be purchased somewhere at a reasonable cost?

Another option is to find old moulding plane irons on ebay. The plane iron shop in the UK has them from time to time, but you can also find them domestically once in a while.
You could also try emailing Josh at Hyperkitten.com. I've bought a few miscellaneous irons from him at very reasonable prices.
I certainly agree with Dave and others that making your own irons is a worthwhile skill to have, but if you're not ready, or aren't tooled up for it yet, the above options can work.

[Judson Green]

David

Is there a YouTube video on this?

[David Weaver]

For Larry? Actually, I think Larry may show himself heating and tempering an iron somewhere else, but it's on his video for making side escapement planes.

Found it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMLJeBhyTis

There's a much longer discussion of what's going on in larry's DVD, but the important part to this is there is a pre-heated quench of vegetable oil somewhere that he's quickly getting the iron to once those pools of migrating carbon appear on the surface of the iron.

O1 steel tempering schedules are everywhere, and on O1 ordered from mcmaster carr (starrett brand) there's a tempering schedule right on the package (and the temperatures are in the range of a normal kitchen oven, so tempering is easy and safe from error if your oven is accurate).

(I will wait for george to appear, I don't believe george advocates allowing those pools of carbon to appear before quenching).

[Judson Green]

Is this video relevant?

Heat Treating 01 Tool Steel Plane Blank Irons at …: http://youtu.be/whGlJy7l_DE

[Brian Ashton]

I have always hated using routers to do molding so I was thinking about getting a few hollows and rounds, but I wasn't sure what sizes would be best. I happened to notice a few on lee valley that were very affordable, but I wasn't sure if they were good.http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...09&cat=1,41182
Has anyone used these? I figured after the individual shipping costs, it would be cheaper and easier to buy these than to hunt down a bunch on ebay.
Thanks.

I've used them. They're not bad. All of them need to be tuned to work. I bought them when they were much cheaper so were for the most part worth it. At the price now I'm not entirely sure they're worth it.

[Daniel Rode]

It is for me. Thanks for the link.

Is this video relevant?
Heat Treating 01 Tool Steel Plane Blank Irons at …: http://youtu.be/whGlJy7l_DE

If I could only retire right now, I'd have time to do all the stuff I have on todo my list. I like my job but it's getting in the way of the work I want to do for fun

[Judson Green]

The part when the guy is deep frying the iron at about 350° for an hour...

Is that easier to do in the oven? Does the iron need to be in an oil bath? Could ya do the oil bath in the oven?

[Chris Griggs]

I was going to make my own..I even have Dave's copy of Larry Williams video, then I just happened to run across a half-set in nice condition for about $340. Its double harlequin, but all UK made and in very good condition...the worst pair took about an hour to get working and if I had actually known what I was doing it would have taken more like 30 minute, but most needed little else then light regrinding/reshaping of the blade. I was all ready to make my own, and I do enjoy making tools, but in this case I wanted something I could put to work straight away.

Anyway all that is to say, that I agree with others that if you can find a half-set for under $400 (or a few good pairs for a good price) from someone who you can trust isn't selling you something that will need a lot of reshaping/new wedges/new irons then it is the way to go. Even though I probably don't a half-set, and even though making my own would have been cool, I'm really glad I ran across mine and ended up going that route...it was nice to be able to put them straight to use.

[David Weaver]

I was half looking for that video yesterday, and I couldn't remember if I'd had it loaned out or not!

[Tom M King]

I agree with buying a set for around $400. I bought all mine individually, but figured out by the time I was well into it that buying a set would have been easier. Amazingly, I only bought one that chattered. It had a replacement wedge that fooled me in the pictures. It wasn't hard to fix, and I have since replaced it with an all original one. I almost always stick with a few English sellers, with great results. It only costs about 8 bucks to have one shipped here from the UK in a "small packet", which is not much different than in the states shipping. Snipe bills are hard to find for a good price, but they do turn up once in a while reasonably if you don't have to have a matched set. Chose the piece of wood carefully, and they work really easily, especially if you cut the rabbets first on the tablesaw, but that's just a shortcut, and not absolutely necessary.

[Derek Cohen]

Read Matt Bickfords "mouldings in practice." He makes a very good case for needing only a few pairs of hollows and rounds, along with snipes bills and half rounds to make practically any profile you might ever need. A seriously great book.

Hi Paul

I've not read Matt's book, which I shall purchase. Which sizes did he recommend?

I have a half set Purchased a dozen years ago. It would be interesting to learn which sizes others feel a set can be reduced to, or where one should start if building one's own.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[paul cottingham]

Derek:

Of course, I can't find my copy of Mouldings in Practice right now, but I believe he recommends a pair of sixes and a pair of eights to start out. Or maybe eights and tens. I bought a harlequin set of 8 from Bode of fours to tens and can't imagine needing any more ( other than a new four....can't get the blade to seat right...) but I doubt I will do architectural moldings. Add a pair of snipes mouths and a pair of half rounds and bobs your uncle.

If I find my copy today, I will amend this.

[Tom M King]

If you are just coming up with a design for something to work on a piece of furniture, I can see where you can get by with just a few. If you are trying to match something exactly, which is what we do, I wouldn't want to be without any of them. I don't even bother to look at what number the hollow or round is. I just pick ones that fit right in the piece we are matching.

[Kees Heiden]

I knew I read it somewhere. Took some digging:

http://blog.lostartpress.com/2012/07...here-to-start/