I Finally finished acherry chest-on-chest build from Glen Huey's excellent book "BuildingEarly American Furniture".
Since the last post, I've install the hardware, lined the drawer bottoms withbook matched aromatic cedar and put on the solid wood, ship lapped back(book-matched "Whitewood" from the local BORG– whatever that is). This took longer than I thought – pretty much par for the course with the wholebuild. Here are some final pics:
Before I started with the back and drawer bottoms, seem like I needed another "shop appliance" – a little sawhorse to support theother end of long boards for crosscutting at the saw bench. The saw benchis the second most used tool in my shop after the workbench and Yes, buildingthe sawhorse now is probably procrastinating. Soaking wet Doug Fir from the BORG, fun little project tobuild by the seat of your pants without having to worry about irritating details like plans, dimensions etc. I'm hoping to get a dispensation from David and his fellow "end grain-averse" Neanders – personally I love these through, wedged M&T joints.
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I have a cheesy 30-year-old, Taiwanese bandsaw with a shop made fence and a maximum 5 1/2" re-saw capacity. The poor motor was really straining to get through resawing this white wood (which couldn't have been softer), even moving at a snail's pace. Are there really bandsaw's that can re-saw 12" inch wide hardwoods?
I explored a riser kit and more powerful motor, but couldn't really find a riser kit that said it would fit and I don't know anything about electric motors so wasn't sure was looking at the correct ones – all I saw seemed to be in the $250 – $400 price range, and I thought for that $ I might as well just get another, bigger saw? I definitely need some advice about how to make this happen so I'm ready when I win the lotto (suggestions welcome).
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Rabbits for ship lappingthe back. I've had a Stanley 78 for years but recently splurged on theLV rabbit plane and I love it! Plane iron holds an edge and easy to adjust and set up for fat shavings that make for fast, clean, square rabbits.
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Keeping track of the alternatingside to rabbit for ship lapping is a challenge for me; triangle mark to keep track of the book matched pieces, then planning off the mark in final surfacing.... which side do I rabbit again ? The big gap in the middle is the last piece, and as is typical, I rabbited the wrong surface. Said "screw it is going in any way it's just the back."
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