Thanks Steve!
These were cross grain, so they required pretty good flattening prior to cutting the joints (if they move slightly after it doesn't seem to matter much as the joinery will bring it back). I fallow by cutting a dado groove and making sure it is the same depth across the entire width of the board. I then cut the sides of the dovetail with a female dovetail plane. I cut this without taper. I cut a notch to relieve the end of this cut, so that it doesn't blow-out the end of the board.
To cut the male side, I start by squaring the edge with a shooting board, then scribe the sides to prevent chip-out (cross grain cut), as I found that sometimes the nicker alone is not enough on the start. I cut this part with the taper of about .010", IIRC.
I measure everything with a set of dial calipers for this, and I found I could fine tune either board, but it was just as well I decided to fine tune the male end. When trial fitting I decided that being able to knock the assembly a little over half-way together without getting to aggressive with the mallet was good, and that worked out to be pretty good.