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Thread: Which plane to buy next

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    My question would be directed to the steps you follow in preparing a board.

    What do you find the two planes can not do easily?

    The BUJ was the subject of a Finewoodworking article that showed multiple blades
    being ground to different angles, for different procedures.

    I recommend Jim Tolpin's "The New Traditional Woodworker" to further your
    inquiry into tools to fit the way you make things.

    The recommended finishing step is often some combination of cabinet or card scraper
    followed by light sanding to show any divots, tear out or low spots.

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...=1,310&p=46266

    If you haven't taken any instruction yet, it might be a good time to get a handle on what you have
    before getting more tools.

    Concerning block planes, I would look for something the size of a traditional Stanley #3
    before getting a really small block plane.

  2. #17
    All, thank you for the great advice. I think I misused the term hybrid. MOst likely the only large machine I am going to buy is the bandsaw. I wanted to get into this hobby to replace the satisfaction I used to get from working with telecom equipment in the field compared to now sitting behind a desk exclusively. I miss the sense of a finished product. I am setting up my shop in my basement and at least for the moment don't plan on using any power tools down there besides the drill press. Any sanding I do will be done in my garage but really I hope it won't be more than a light pass with a small square of sandpaper to get it ready for finishing.. I really got inspired to get into this hobby by seeing some of Paul Sellers videos. I don't care too much about production speed (good thing as I am pretty &%$# slow so far, lol).

    Up till now I have been doing everything by hand with the exception of the long rip cuts which a coworker has helped me out with. I'm not so dedicated to turn my nose up at a table saw when I have a bunch of 8/4 to rip! Other than that it's the sense of craftsmanship I am really enjoying.

    Probably like most, I want to make some nice furniture for the house as far as projects go. I hadn't seen the small smoother somehow in my LV browsing. That looks like a nice compromise. The things I have had some difficulty with are more in the sheer size of the LA Jack rather than its ultimate capability. It can do the job it's just awkward. I ended up with two 25 degree irons so I am making one with more of a camber to be able to do some mild scrub duty.

    I got a cabinet scraper recently and it was a revelation how it could plane where even my 50 degree iron was having issues. When making my workbench I had a lot of maple that just could NOT be planed. Contrasting grain running all directions. I thought it was my technique at first, especially watching multiple videos and seeing nothing but smooth continuous shavings from the posters.

    I live near Calgary so LV is very convenient. Not the cheapest tools but over my life I have been sorry for buying cheap tools a number of times but never for buying quality (unless my wife happens to find out the ACTUAL cost of some of these things that is...)

    thanks again,

    Wayne

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,296
    Blog Entries
    7
    Maple prefers to be difficult, out of the white woods it's my least favorite to work with. Unfortunately I like the look of it, so it gets put to use quite often. I certainly prefer working with white ash or quarter sawn white oak over maple.

    The issue you are having is where a smoother with a chip breaker is going to come in handy. I have a bevel up jack, and I like it mostly because it has the ability to accept blades which can sheer end grain or be used to remove material quickly with a cambered blade. It doesn't do well as a smoother, at least in my experience.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Enchanted land of beer, cheese & brats
    Posts
    1,314
    Used maple all the time when I was a electronic woodworker, but now it kicks my butt.
    I got cash in my pocket. I got desire in my heart....

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Marietta GA
    Posts
    1,120
    Some thing to consider.... buy a Hock thick blade and build a Krenov style small plane. Maybe about 5 ~ 6 inches long. That would be cheaper than either the LN or LV block planes but better than the Stanley.

    It's not hard to make a Krenov style plane and you can get creative on the selection of woods to use. I made one out of some rock (hard) maple with a sole from lignum vie tea. That little plane has been in my shop for over a decade and is kept sharp and ready right on my bench. Very handy and lighter than an equivalent steel/cast Iron plane.

    There are books and youtube videos on making such a plane.

    Best of all, you'll enjoy using some thing you made, tuned up, and invested your skills in...IMO.

    Enjoy the shavings.

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