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Thread: A look at a german table saw (Rapid PK-100)

  1. #1
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    A look at a german table saw (Rapid PK-100)

    Hello, first post here, new to woodworking in general. I got my first table saw last night and figured I'd post about it here. I was going to get some cheaper contractor saw but things kind of snowballed and instead I ended up with a 600lbs (250kg) german table saw from 1976. Best thing is I spent hardly any more on this than I would have on some lighter and worse quality modern contractor style saw.

    It can take a 12" blade but you can only retract the blade fully with a 10" so I guess for most purposes I will want a 10" blade, 30mm arbor. 3-phase engine, probably a 3kw (5hp) one (standard), though they had a 4kw version too.

    Some of the things that I liked about this saw was it had two slots, many european saws only have one slot, usually on the left side. some have no slots at all. I've been watching a lot of american videos, and sleds and jigs running in the slots is a pretty big part of every day operations and I've come to find this method natural just from that. Europeans are more about sliding tables, and this saw has one, more on that.

    Here it is in my garage (still under construction, as is my house):


    Closer view, cleaned off the cast iron top with Ballistol and newspaper, all I had at the moment. I'll clean it more thoroughly later. Also liked the american speed square so I ordered a metric version from the US.


    Blade that came with, 10" crosscutting blade, 80 tooths:


    I also noticed the profile on the slots are a dovetail shape, usually the slots are straight I've noticed, will this affect how I make runners for my jigs or is it enough to make them fit snugly to the top? I guess it'll be easier to make runners that can't be lifted up though, just cut them at an angle.


    Ordinary wheel handle for lowering and raising the blade. Tilting is done by opening the locking lever and just dragging it, then locking again.


    Rip fence, turn knob stops, has a fine adjustment knob as well, wobbles at the far end when you adjust it but goes solid when its locked down.


    Wooden insert that came with the saw. I am thinking of making some zero clearance inserts using MDF panelling, I have a metric buttload of them after putting up the ceiling in my house. Maybe they can also be used for bottoms in small sleds.

    Here's the blade guard and support arm for the sliding table, apparently I forgot to upload pictures of that.


    Regarding the sliding table I was somewhat disappointed, the support arm is on a hinge and when you start it is at maximum extension and giving the best support, but when you get to the end of the table it's turned inwards and then suddenly the support is almost gone and the table drops down on the left side. I have so little space at the moment I do not think I will be putting it on for a while. Would be nice if it could be improved.

    Maybe overkill for a first table saw, but I really shouldn't be needing to buy another one, ever.

  2. #2
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    That's an interesting saw, Dennis,

    The dovetail slots are going to work out well for you, and it has a good riving knife. Interesting to see a slider which is not next to the blade. When you get it working it will be like our Excalibur or Jessem add ons, but probably a lot more sturdy. It should be easy to make add on jigs for that fence, too.

    A little love, and that saw will probably outlast you.

    Rick Potter

  3. #3
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    I uploaded the pic of the table itself, not much to look at:


    The round "pipe" is what the whole thing runs on. It doesn't show the design of the table very well, a google image search shows what it looks like when assembled however:


    I don't really know what can be done to fix the slider to be honest.

  4. #4
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    That's a really nice looking saw. I think the problem area with the slider is mostly behind the blade, and won't be much of a problem.


    John

  5. #5
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    Yes I considered that, still kind of annoying because the drop off in support is quite sudden. I am thinking perhaps building a freestanding support rail that supports the table from beginning to end, but it might be bulky. The sliding table might be a bit too bulky even when the garage is finished, hard to tell, I'll have to see how it pans out.

  6. #6
    Good looking saw. I think the blade may be a laminate blade given what appears to be a negative rake on the 80 teeth.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
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  7. #7
    Let me be the first to say

    YOU SUCK!

    Nice score there.

  8. #8
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    Looks cool! Neat to see old arn from another country.

    Interesting how the fence doesn't go much further than the back of the blade. I know that's a common thing for European saws, but still interesting to see. I've been thinking about "bobbing" the fence on my band saw.
    Last edited by Judson Green; 06-19-2014 at 10:18 AM.
    I got cash in my pocket. I got desire in my heart....

  9. #9
    On the sliding table issue, how does that design differ than any other sliding table? It would seem to me that the basic design of them would all more or less be the same, and that if your unit is dropping-off at the end of the cut, that there may be some adjustment to be made?

    With or without that table being used, I think that is a pretty nifty saw and I agree with the others that it looks like it is built to last.

    I wish more European members would post pictures of their tools here. There is quite a bit that can be learned from looking at these models.

  10. #10
    The sliding table fence should not touch the fixed table. I can't say this is the source of the hangup. Generally sliding tables are adjusted to sit about .5mm above the fixed table.

  11. #11
    Wow, your saw looks like it is in amazing condition for a near 40 year old saw. Have never seen a model like that, maybe there are websites in Germany that cover that saw. Like the sliding table attachment, should make crosscutting much better than with a conventional table saw.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Thien View Post
    On the sliding table issue, how does that design differ than any other sliding table? It would seem to me that the basic design of them would all more or less be the same, and that if your unit is dropping-off at the end of the cut, that there may be some adjustment to be made?

    With or without that table being used, I think that is a pretty nifty saw and I agree with the others that it looks like it is built to last.

    I wish more European members would post pictures of their tools here. There is quite a bit that can be learned from looking at these models.
    Perhaps there is some adjustment that can be made, perhaps the table is meant to be more firmly affixed to the rail it slides back and forward on. As it is now, the tables right side tips upwards when the support arm has swung all the way in, turning the sliding table almost into a seesaw.

  13. #13
    I don't really know what can be done to fix the slider to be honest.[/QUOTE]

    If the point at which the arm attaches to the table isn't perfectly vertical, then the end of the arm (that supports the table) will travel in an arc that isn't parallel to the plane of the main table, does that make sense?

    If you had a fairly flat piece of MDF or particle board, you could lay that on top of the main table so it overhangs the area where the arm travels, then as you push the arm from front to back, the distance between the bottom of the MDF, and the top of the arm (at the arm's end) should stay fairly consistent.

    If it doesn't, then you should be able to loosen the point at which the arm attaches at the saw's base and adjust it until the arm's motion is in a plane parallel to the main saw's table.

    After you get the arm moving correctly, I think it would just be a matter of reinstalling the table and making sure there is no play between the sliding table, and the tube it slides on.

    Not to come off as a Sherlock Holmes or anything, I'd say that judging by the number of dings on the arm and the tube for the sliding table in the picture of the 2nd saw you posted, that it was well-used, so I imagine it can be made to work quite well.
    Last edited by Phil Thien; 06-19-2014 at 1:38 PM.

  14. #14
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    Yeah I believe I understand, both the arm and the sliding rail where adjustable actually, though a bit rusted in place, I noticed this as I took them off. I'll definitely make a note of this for later so I can remember it when I get some space in my garage, as it is now there's no chance of getting it back on.

  15. #15
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    I find it kinda odd that it has a sliding table considering how the blade tilts. I mean I'd much rather have a screw tilting arbor than a sliding table. Weird.
    I got cash in my pocket. I got desire in my heart....

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