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Thread: 26" wadkin jointer head rebuild test 5 will get ya 10

  1. #1
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    26" wadkin jointer head rebuild test 5 will get ya 10

    jack
    English machines

  2. #2
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    Nice.Very Nice!!!

    Jack
    You have some amazing machines.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  3. #3
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    Shows you the old Wadkin doesn't need direct drive or matching belts to be vibration free. I wish I aged as well. Dave

  4. #4
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    Impressive. That head has some major mass to it!
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  5. #5
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    Very cool .. What's the diameter of that head ?

  6. #6
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    Now that's what you call vibration free!! Hell, I'd have a hard time just getting the dimes to stand up. Sounds like a jet warming up for take off....
    Andy Kertesz

    " Impaled on nails of ice, raked by emerald fire"...... King Crimson '71

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Fisher View Post
    Very cool .. What's the diameter of that head ?
    Rick the head is 5" with skewed knifed and moulding plates too. it can cut moulding 12" wide 2" deep.


    here you can see that the cutter block is tapered on the sides the jointer knifes plates/clam go.



    the wadkin head has keyed jacking/ knife adjustment screws and you don't need the plates to to hold the knifes from slipping like the Oliver head. the stud hole is through the head and the stud bottom on a small rim on the top edge.


    a set of Wadkin spent knifes(no life left) with the key slot at the back on the blade. only half of the knifes are useful in this design. the blade are about 1 1/2" wide when new. You are still able to get theses from wadkin.


    i have found regular knifes placed in front of the key screw. this is very dangerous with this type head.

    you have a 12" section for moulding knifes in the jointer head and it does not upset the straight knifes.


    the hard wood side of the head is thinner than the softwood side of the head by about 5/8" this is what skews the knife.




    here are the toe plates i had made with my custom free hand ground knifes. Is that nice or what?

















    jack


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    jack
    English machines

  8. #8
    That jointer is something else.

  9. #9
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    Hell, my 6" delta x5 (I know, I know) shakes my whole house when I start it up. And it's on a concrete floor!
    Ok, maybe I exaggerate a tad.

    Very impressive, Jack, very impressive indeed. Makes me wish I had the space and access to such beautiful iron. Even old and rusty, it makes mine look sad.
    Love your videos, btw.
    Paul

  10. #10
    Jack that is one sweet head. How do the inserts in a tow clamps sound spinning at 7000 RPM?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Mattingley View Post
    Jack that is one sweet head. How do the inserts in a tow clamps sound spinning at 7000 RPM?
    for those following at home Matt made the molding tooling holder ?toe clamps and sis some major work on the head. The Man is an insane tool and die craftsman. Very lucking to have cross path and made a friendship with someone so in love with the craft.

    Have not set it up yet as many things have to be in play for them to work properly Matt. I let you try it at the rust fest in a week times.
    jack
    English machines

  12. #12
    Moulding head on a jointer?? That's a new one to me! I've seen them on a planer, but not on a jointer. My first thoughts were how you get a smooth cut without a roller to hold the wood down, but after thinking about, I guess it wouldn't be any different than getting a smooth cut with a straight blade on a jointer.

    When I make base cap trim like that on my router table, I use featherboards both vertical and horizontal to hold the wood in place, and I have to keep the wood moving to not get any ripples. Seems to me that it would be hard to keep it down and keep it moving on a jointer with just two hands and no featherboards.

    Just curious!

    Keith

  13. #13
    Also curious as to what motor you have on that thing. It took a while to spool up, which is a good thing. Runs nice and smooth!

    Keith

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Weber View Post
    Also curious as to what motor you have on that thing. It took a while to spool up, which is a good thing. Runs nice and smooth!

    Keith

    the head is heavy so it takes a bit to get that up to speed




    the motor is 5 hp 3 phase and may seam light in today's standards but this head take less power to drive through the wood. the Knife angle is steeper than you straight knife gib heads. think of it as a low angle block plane.





    the feed motor is 2 hp



    the machine was made for 25 hrzs(old Niagara power grid) and the PO did a bad job of trying to convert it to single phase. i had to find all the motors for this one with the old foot mounted base to fit.

    this is how i got it
    jack
    English machines

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Weber View Post
    Moulding head on a jointer?? That's a new one to me! I've seen them on a planer, but not on a jointer. My first thoughts were how you get a smooth cut without a roller to hold the wood down, but after thinking about, I guess it wouldn't be any different than getting a smooth cut with a straight blade on a jointer.

    When I make base cap trim like that on my router table, I use featherboards both vertical and horizontal to hold the wood in place, and I have to keep the wood moving to not get any ripples. Seems to me that it would be hard to keep it down and keep it moving on a jointer with just two hands and no featherboards.

    Just curious!

    Keith
    i don't plan to hand feed from the top.(power feeder) you can feed the work from below through the thicknesser. but whats great is if feed on top you can do massive curves.
    jack
    English machines

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