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Thread: Why do we use oil when cleaning old saw blades

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Kim Malmberg View Post
    You don't need to use any oil at all. In fact avoid it. It is environmentally harmful, it smells and the funds aren't exactly good for you either.
    If your saw is very dirty, then start by cleaning off any swarf and saw dust with warm water and a rug.
    Then if the saw is very rusty a window scraper or a razor blade might be helpful for removing the large portion of rust.
    Alternatively a good soak in citric acid will also help. This method doesn't harm the environment and has the advantage of a lot of rust being removed without you doing anything which again means that you don't need to abrade as much which again saves you some money.
    After this you can follow with window cleaning agent and medium fine sandpaper followed by more window cleaner and finer paper.
    Aluminium foil won't do a thing alone but combined with Autosol paste it will work very well on very lightly rusted tool or as a final polishing method. I use this method on almost every tool I clean up. Sometimes it is the only treatment the tool receives.
    If you don't trust me on the window cleaner then trust Matt Cianci who uses the same method. See here:

    http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/c...awPlate-01.asp
    That's a degreaser he is using not window cleaner. I also have to disagree and say that Simple Green does not smell good. The yellow lemon stuff is better than the green stuff though. I've used the simple green and 400 grit method before and it works but it is very labor intensive and extremely messy. I've done about 35 saws this way. It works great if there is only a small amount of rust or a semi darkened plate. I got into hand tools to get away from sanding for long periods of time.

    I'm going to give the evaporust a shot on my next batch of saws. I've used vinegar and citric acid before. The vinegar works okay but it is slow and you have to keep an eye on it. It can be spotty as well.

    I'm also not trying to shoot down any of the other ideas. I just think there has got to be an easier way.

  2. #17
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    I might come across as very sure of myself. But I have cleaned up more than a hundred saws in the last three years. The only method I have never tried is electrolysis and although I do want to use environmentally sound methods in the first place I do think that window agent and sandpaper is the best method if you consider all other aspects. Window cleaner is cheap, it will bind rust which means less smear and lower risk of inhaling the rust and dirt and it is not slower than using cutting spirits or oil. And if you want to clean up a saw without being able to remove the handle then the last thing you want is to have oil anywhere near the handle. It will sick it up like a sponge forever leaving a ugly dark stain in the wood.

  3. #18
    I start with a razor blade. then wet or dry paper with either hot water (self drying) or alcohol. finish with steel wool with caranauba wax.

  4. #19
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    Kim,
    After the citric bath, how do you get the dull gray finish to shine up. I cannot get the metal to clean past the dull finish. Maybe I am not going far enough with my cleaning.
    You never get the answer if you don't ask the question.

    Joe

  5. #20
    Perhaps autosol would be of use here?

  6. #21
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    Autosol or Flitz are good for the finishing step, but for knocking off a great deal of rust - very slow going.

    I scrape with an old cabinet scraper (taking care around the etch) and use coarse automobile
    "Rubbing compound" with steel wool. Once it's smooth, I stop.

    I'm no longer picking up plates that have rust flaking off. I have no success with things so far gone.

    If the preliminary "flex test" has rust popping off - I won't buy the saw.

    http://www.grainger.com/product/1UER...140702112043:s

  7. #22
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    I don't use citric acid every time. I do it only on bad saws. But the steel doesn't go grey on you if you keep the solution weak enough, alternatively baby watch your strong brew. Sometimes I have made a strong solution and then worked the tool with scotch brite every few minutes.
    But as Dennis points out Autosol and aluminium foil will polish a dull looking tool. Still you need to be wary of not letting the steel go too grey.
    As mentioned before Autosol and aluminium foil is excellent for lightly rusty surfaces or just plain finishing but it's not a method for removing heavy rust.

  8. #23
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    Why do we use oil when cleaning old saw blades
    Because dog urine is too hard to come by.
    Though there are those here, and you know who you are, who have mapped out a strategy to acquire the rare and legendary elixir.
    Last edited by Winton Applegate; 07-03-2014 at 1:45 AM.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  9. #24
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    Winton,
    Have you considered going on the Last Comic Standing? You would probably win. I do enjoy your comments, and the little digs you get in. Thanks for just being you.
    Joe
    You never get the answer if you don't ask the question.

    Joe

  10. #25
    Oil carries away the sanding swarf, that's it.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winton Applegate View Post
    Because dog urine is too hard to come by.
    Though there are those here, and you know who you are, who have mapped out a strategy to acquire the rare and legendary elixir.
    My deceased beagle, twice removed (he died two beagles ago), was trained to pee on saws to be cleansed very easily. Mac loved hide glue, bit detest salt. So I would lean the saw I wanted cleansed against the wall, paint some hide glue on the saw, with a tad of salt at the tallest portion. Mac would lick the saw clean until he came to saw, at which point he would become pizzed and then pizz on the saw.

    I've since changed my habits on saws: instead of taking old and making new, I get new saws and restore them to old!
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winton Applegate View Post
    Because dog urine is too hard to come by.
    Though there are those here, and you know who you are, who have mapped out a strategy to acquire the rare and legendary elixir.
    I resemble that remark. The block & tackle looks historically correct, is hanging in the place of honor in my shop. I am onto shaving now, and old lanterns.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "You don't have to give birth to someone to have a family." (Sandra Bullock)




  13. #28
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    Beagle saw cleaning stratedgy

    Ha, ha,

    I had a beagle when I was a kid. Ricky.
    Great dogs.
    If I had asked him to clean a saw though he would probably have just bit me in the crotch, really hard, and then went and took a nap.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  14. #29
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    I have cleaned and restored a lot of old saws and tried several methods. Here are the steps that have worked best for me. Having had cancer once, I don't like strong chemicals.

    1. Water and razor blade.
    2. Electrolysis (Washing soda, water, battery charger)
    3. Light oil and WD sandpaper (3 grits).

    Chris Vandiver showed me an old D7 he had done with Autosol and aluminum foil. Very impressive and much less work, I suspect, so I will try it next.

    Stan
    Last edited by Stanley Covington; 07-05-2014 at 10:38 PM.

  15. #30
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    Autosol and aluminum foil. Very impressive
    Hey that brings back memories, (good and bad).
    When I was in High School I was holding down two jobs. I don't know what "holding down" means but it sounded good so I decided to put that in there.

    Anyway after a day of wasting my precious time at HS I would go work in the Robinson & Gardner hardware store (I was a factory trained Schwinn bicycle mechanic in their bike shop area; the store paid to send me off to be factory trained ! ! ! ). I did every thing else around there too from selling nails by the pound and making deliveries in the co. truck . . .
    anyway . . .
    after the HW store closed for the day I would bicycle over to the Village Inn pancake house and work as a dish washer till the wee hours (open 24 hrs).

    where is this going you may ask
    has the old barker finally lost his mind ?
    has he gone insane ? Again ?

    noooooo

    . . . in the dish washing room we had a stainless steel pitcher.
    In the bottom of that stainless steel pitcher was a wad of aluminum foil.
    Poured in on top of the tin foil was some liquid. I never found out what but it was obviously made with fairy dust and puppy dogs tails (hey, it is a witches brew)( how they pulverized those fairies into dust I never found out 'neether) . . .

    . . . so when ever I came across a tarnished looking piece of silver ware (real silver plated apparently) I was to poke the tarnished end of this silver ware against the aluminum foil in the pitcher with the witches brew.

    It was MAGIC ! The tarnish seemed to just fall off and the silver ware came out like new.
    Must have been that whatcha a maddingy you mentioned.
    Last edited by Winton Applegate; 07-06-2014 at 5:00 PM.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

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