Restoring a Mini 24

[Dan Wilhelm]

I've recently acquired an Epilog Mini 24, 40W laser cutter that has had a fire in the cutting chamber. I'd like to try to restore it to a usable state, but it needs some significant restoration. Once I got a lot of the burned crap out and most of the fire extinguisher residue cleaned up, I put some power to it. It homed the y-axis, but the belt is melted though on the x-axis which prevented it from fully starting up. As far as I can tell, the laser diode, power supply, motors, and controls are all operational.

I know as of now that I need to replace the left belt bracket on the y-axis, the auto-focus plunger, the x-axis belt, and the air-assist tubing. It would probably be a good idea to just replace the entire x-axis because it is going to take a lot of cleaning to get running smooth again. The exhaust manifold and engraving table are both warped from heat, but I know a pretty decent metal worker that might be able to restore them.

My question is, where can I buy the parts that I need to restore this thing? It's one of the pre-2010 models, so I think it uses some different parts than the current generation Mini. I emailed tech(at)epiloglaser(dot)com, but they have yet to respond to me. If I am able to restore the laser, I'd also need the original Epilog drivers/software. I don't want to take any money out of Epilog's pocket, but if they are unwilling to sell me parts, do I have any other options?

[Robert Walters]

I'm sure epilog will sell parts if they have them available, this IS how they make money.
You are not taking money out of their pockets in the least.

Since you said the engraving table is warped...

If your friend can work miracles, make sure that the table is tested on a granite surface plate and a dial indicator.
also ask epilog what is the tolerance of the table, then you will have something to measure against and see if you are within that spec.


That will tell you for sure if it's true or not, you don't need to go thru the whole restoration process only to find out that you have to do it all over again because the table isn't flat.


*I* would pull out the entire wiring harness and bench test every wire/connection point.

Fire has a funny way of doing unexpected things, and the last thing you want to do is not be unaware of an open, short, or worse of all intermittent connection. Yes, it might be a PITA, just take *LOTS* of photos before pulling it out, take photos of the connectors themselves and what they plug into as well. that way when/if you get tired/frustrated you can look back at the photos.

In a laser engraver I would not be surprised to take 80-150 photos, including of how the wires are run in the machine and at various angles.

I would inspect PCB's for lifted components, etc. While they may have been protected from the flames, they might not have been from the heat.

I would also inspect/photograph before spending one dime in parts. you never know what you might find till you do a full tear down.

Good luck!

[Joe Pelonio]

Epilog responds faster to a phone call. To find the exact replacement part you would have to determine their supplier and most of the parts you need are custom made for them, and they probably can sell only to Epilog by contract.

[Dan Wilhelm]

Actually, this laser is built differently than my GWeike. The part that is warped is the "pan" that the different cutting services sit in. It has rulers that fold down around its perimeter. The previous owner was using the expanded metal grid when the fire happened, and that thing is wrecked. I didn't even notice that the pan was warped until I removed it from the Z-axis mounts.

I'm actually an electrical engineer and an electronics hobbiest in my spare time, so I'm fairly confident that the wiring and PCBs are in good shape. I have removed the laser diode and power supply, opened them up, and cleaned out as much of the fire extinguisher residue as I could. I didn't open any sealed parts of the laser diode, though...don't want any contaminants getting in there.

Where I left it this afternoon was deciding whether or not to drill out the rivets that hold the exhaust manifold into the chassis. I can't get in the manifold to clean it without drilling out the rivets, so it's probably going to happen. The plastic parts of the exhaust ports in the "pan" are melted, so they will have to be replaced at a minimum.

[Pete Simmons]

"the auto-focus plunger"

Leave it out. Easy to focus without it and gives more head clearance for odd shaped objects. With it installed you will jam it up against some uneven piece of material.

Good luck with the rebuild.

[Bill Munroe]

Pete, I realize this sounds incredibly ignorant, but how do you focus without the plunger? Thanks!

[Dan Wilhelm]

"the auto-focus plunger"

Leave it out. Easy to focus without it and gives more head clearance for odd shaped objects. With it installed you will jam it up against some uneven piece of material.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Pete, I took the plunger off my Gweike, and it included a focusing tool that works just fine. I don't think that's possible with the Epilog, though. There isn't really a "lip" on the lens holder to manually adjust the focus length like there is on the Chinese lasers. Plus, I'd trust Epilog to execute auto-focus better than the Chinese do.

[Pete Simmons]

I have a small V shaped spacer (came with Epilog Mini) that slips over 2 pins on the lens carriage and is held in place by 2 magnets.

[Bill Munroe]

Thanks guys. I got my Epilog second hand and didn't get a "tool". I'll check out their site.

[Pete Simmons]

Manual focus. Lotsa dirt but the lens is clean!

focus.jpg

[Kev Williams]

Man, you guys are too hi-tech for me!

Here's my focusing tool...

[Dan Wilhelm]

Epilog tech support got back to me today with some CAD drawings including BOMs. That's helpful for determining the names/part numbers of the parts I need. I responded back with a slew of questions that will probably take them a while to answer.

I tried to remove the exhaust duct today, but even after removing the rivets, the duct is not removable. It looks like the frame was built around the duct, so I would have to completely disassemble the frame to remove it. How critical is it for the ducts on the engraving table to be flush with the plastic sliders on the rear exhaust duct? If I can't remove that thing to flatten it, it might be a deal-breaker.

Also, Epilog just directed me to buy CorelDraw when I asked about their software. Are the job control plug-ins and drivers free from Epilog?

[Tim Bateson]

...Also, Epilog just directed me to buy CorelDraw when I asked about their software. Are the job control plug-ins and drivers free from Epilog?

Epilog doesn't use "job control" . Just a specialized print driver. Just like sending a Corel file to a printer, but in this case to the Epilog laser.

[Dan Wilhelm]

Got some good work done today. Turns out that the part of the exhaust duct that is warped is removable from the rest. I got that taken off, and my metalworking friend is going to fabricate another one for me this weekend. I also cleaned up the x-axis and found that I really only need the parts that attach directly to the focusing lens...everything else is in good shape. I might get out of this thing only having to buy a new focusing head assembly and a cutting table. It'll still probably run $1000, but far cheaper than a new Mini 24.

[Bill Cunningham]

Or just measure it ... Sometime I use my focus tool, but other times its just as quick to grab the tape measure and bring the table/part up to 2" from the lens. Your lens is most likely a 2" focus..